
Chef Jeong-sun
Beoseot-jeongol (Mushroom Hot Pot)
A wide shallow pot of autumn mushrooms, thin beef, tofu, and clear anchovy-kelp broth, arranged by color first and simmered at the table so every mushroom still tastes like itself.
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A whole chicken simmered gently at the table with garlic, leek, potato, and rice cakes, then finished with kalguksu noodles in the clear broth Seoul lines up for.
Dak-hanmari is not samgyetang with its coat taken off. Samgyetang stuffs the chicken and asks ginseng to speak. Dak-hanmari leaves the bird plain, cuts it at the table, and lets the broth, the dipping sauce, and the people around the pot do the work.
This is Seoul market food, generous and practical. A whole chicken goes into a wide pot with leek, garlic, potato, and a clean broth. Rice cakes soften around the edges. Each person mixes a sharp sauce of soy, vinegar, mustard, garlic, and gochugaru, then pulls pieces of chicken through it as the pot cooks. The broth stays gentle because the sauce is where the bite belongs. Let it taste like itself.
What this dish asks of you tonight is patience with clear broth and confidence at the table. Skim early. Simmer, don't thrash the chicken. Cut it only when the meat has tightened enough to hold cleanly. Then, when everyone has eaten the chicken, drop in the kalguksu noodles and let the broth become the last course. 손맛 is real. I still measure it, so it can be handed on.
Dak-hanmari is a modern Seoul dish closely tied to the Dongdaemun and Jongno market area, where chicken restaurants served workers, shoppers, and night-market customers a whole bird in a plain communal pot. The best-known Dak-hanmari Alley grew from late twentieth-century shops, including long-running restaurants opened in the 1970s, and the dish is often remembered as a practical market meal before it became a destination food. Its identity is urban and everyday, not palace food: one chicken, a clear broth, a sharp dipping sauce, and noodles at the end.
Quantity
1, 1.3 to 1.6 kg
excess fat trimmed
Quantity
10 cups
Quantity
1 piece, about 4 inches square
Quantity
10
heads and guts removed
Quantity
1 large leek or 2 large scallions
white and green parts separated
Quantity
10 cloves
6 whole, 4 minced
Quantity
1 small
halved
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more as needed
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 medium
peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices
Quantity
200g
soaked 15 minutes if firm
Quantity
250g
shaken free of excess flour
Quantity
1 cup
cut into bite-size pieces
Quantity
1
thinly sliced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
or 2 teaspoons prepared hot mustard
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup
for the dipping sauce
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole chickenexcess fat trimmed | 1, 1.3 to 1.6 kg |
| water | 10 cups |
| dried kelp (dasima) | 1 piece, about 4 inches square |
| large dried anchovies (myeolchi)heads and guts removed | 10 |
| Korean leek or large scallionswhite and green parts separated | 1 large leek or 2 large scallions |
| garlic6 whole, 4 minced | 10 cloves |
| onionhalved | 1 small |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more as needed |
| whole black peppercorns | 1/2 teaspoon |
| waxy potatoespeeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices | 2 medium |
| cylinder rice cakes (tteok)soaked 15 minutes if firm | 200g |
| fresh kalguksu noodlesshaken free of excess flour | 250g |
| napa cabbage leaves (optional)cut into bite-size pieces | 1 cup |
| Korean green chili (optional)thinly sliced | 1 |
| soy sauce | 2 tablespoons |
| rice vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| Korean mustard paste (yeongyeoja)or 2 teaspoons prepared hot mustard | 1 tablespoon |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) | 1 tablespoon |
| chicken broth from the pot | 1 tablespoon |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame oil | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seeds | 1/2 teaspoon |
| thinly sliced cabbage or garlic chives (optional)for the dipping sauce | 1 cup |
Trim the yellow fat from the cavity and tail end of the chicken, then rinse the cavity under cold water and pat the bird dry. Cut away any loose skin hanging from the neck. This keeps the broth clean instead of greasy, which matters because dak-hanmari has nowhere to hide.
Put the water, kelp, anchovies, leek greens, whole garlic cloves, onion, salt, and peppercorns in a wide pot. Bring it to a bare simmer over medium heat, then pull the kelp out as soon as small bubbles gather at the edge, about 8 to 10 minutes. Kelp gives sweetness and body, but if you boil it hard or leave it too long, it turns the broth slick and bitter. Simmer the anchovies and aromatics 12 minutes more, then lift them out.
Lower the whole chicken breast side up into the broth. The liquid should come about three-quarters up the bird; add up to 1 cup more water if your pot is wide. Simmer gently, uncovered, for 25 minutes, skimming foam and fat from the surface during the first 10 minutes. A hard boil roughens the meat and clouds the broth. Keep it calm.
While the chicken cooks, stir together the soy sauce, rice vinegar, mustard, gochugaru, 1 tablespoon hot broth, sugar, sesame oil, sesame seeds, and the 4 minced garlic cloves. Add the sliced cabbage or garlic chives if using. Taste it once the sugar dissolves. It should be sharp, salty, and mustard-hot, because each dip touches only a small piece of chicken. This is why the pot itself stays restrained.
Add the potato slices around the chicken and simmer 12 to 15 minutes, until they are just tender at the center. Put them in too early and they break apart before the chicken is ready; put them in too late and everyone waits with chopsticks in the air. Notebook 31 says 1/2-inch slices cook evenly in this broth.
Move the pot to a portable burner at the table, keeping it at a gentle simmer. Use kitchen scissors and tongs to cut the chicken into serving pieces: legs first, then wings, then the breast meat into thick slices against the grain. Check that the thickest part of the thigh reaches 74 C or 165 F. Cutting at the table is not theater; the meat finishes in the broth while everyone begins eating, and the bones keep giving flavor.
Add the soaked rice cakes and the white leek or scallion pieces. Simmer 5 to 7 minutes, until the rice cakes bend softly but still chew. If using napa cabbage or green chili in the pot, add them now. Serve chicken pieces with potato, rice cake, and a spoonful of broth, dipping each bite into the sauce.
When most of the chicken is eaten, skim any loose bits from the broth and taste it. Add 1/4 teaspoon salt only if it tastes flat. Shake excess flour from the kalguksu noodles, then add them to the simmering broth and stir so they do not clump. Cook 4 to 5 minutes, until chewy and tender. The flour left on the noodles thickens the broth a little; too much flour makes paste, so shake them well before they go in.
1 serving (about 900g)
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