
Chef Jeong-sun
Beoseot-jeongol (Mushroom Hot Pot)
A wide shallow pot of autumn mushrooms, thin beef, tofu, and clear anchovy-kelp broth, arranged by color first and simmered at the table so every mushroom still tastes like itself.
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A Joseon court jeongol from the 1795 banquet records, with pan-fried sea bream, seasoned beef, mushrooms, egg garnish, and noodles arranged by color before clear broth meets the pot.
Domimyeon lives or dies before the broth is poured. You can buy a fine sea bream and still ruin the pot if you let the noodles shed starch into the broth, if the kelp sits too long, or if the egg garnish goes in early and turns ragged. This is a jeongol (tableside hot pot), not a jjigae (stew). A jjigae usually carries one name and one center; a jeongol asks several prepared things to sit together clearly, then finish in front of the table.
Master Seong-nyeo made us arrange the ingredients twice: once on the board, once in the pan. Yellow egg, green minari, white noodle, brown mushroom, red chili, the fish holding the center because celebration needs a center. She would tap the side of the pan if a carrot crossed into the mushrooms. I thought that was severity. Later I understood. The arrangement is the cooking map. It tells you what is raw, what is tender, what must be lifted quickly, and what can simmer.
I won't tell you this is easy. Tonight it asks for a good fishmonger, a patient knife, a broth kept clear, and a table ready to eat from the pot as it changes. A sinseollo (royal brazier) is beautiful, but a wide jeongol pan on a portable burner does the work honestly. 시대가 바뀌면 음식도 바뀌어야 해요. When times change, food must change too. Keep the order and the restraint, and the dish will still know its own name.
Domimyeon is recorded as seunggiaktang in the Wonhaeng Eulmyo Jeongri Uigwe, the royal protocol for King Jeongjo's 1795 procession to Hwaseong and the sixtieth-birthday feasts for his mother, Lady Hyegyeong. The name domimyeon came to foreground the sea bream, domi, and noodles, myeon, while the older banquet name marks it as a Joseon court hot pot rather than an everyday stew. It belongs to the jeongol family: several prepared meats, seafood, vegetables, and garnishes arranged together and finished at the table, unlike jjigae, which usually names one main ingredient and comes to the table already cooked.
Quantity
1 fish, 800g to 1kg
scaled and gutted, head and tail on
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for the fish
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for the fish
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
3 tablespoons
for dusting
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for pan-frying
Quantity
6
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
for soaking mushrooms
Quantity
7 1/2 cups
Quantity
12
heads and guts removed
Quantity
1 piece, about 5 inches square
Quantity
200g
peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for the broth
Quantity
3/4 teaspoon, plus more as needed
Quantity
200g
sliced paper-thin against the grain
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 teaspoons
divided
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/8 teaspoon
Quantity
180g
Quantity
2
yolks and whites separated
Quantity
1/8 teaspoon
for the eggs
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for the egg garnish
Quantity
100g
separated into small clusters
Quantity
1 small (80g)
cut into 2-inch matchsticks
Quantity
1/2 medium (100g)
thinly sliced
Quantity
80g
cut into 2-inch lengths
Quantity
2
cut into 2-inch lengths
Quantity
1
thinly sliced on the diagonal
Quantity
1
thinly sliced on the diagonal
Quantity
200g
cut into 2-inch pieces
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for blanching the octopus
Quantity
12
toasted
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole sea bream (domi, preferably chamdom)scaled and gutted, head and tail on | 1 fish, 800g to 1kg |
| fine sea saltfor the fish | 1 teaspoon |
| clear rice wine or cheongjufor the fish | 1 tablespoon |
| grated ginger | 1 teaspoon |
| all-purpose flour or potato starchfor dusting | 3 tablespoons |
| neutral oilfor pan-frying | 2 tablespoons |
| dried shiitake mushrooms | 6 |
| warm waterfor soaking mushrooms | 1 1/2 cups |
| water | 7 1/2 cups |
| large dried anchovies (myeolchi)heads and guts removed | 12 |
| dried kelp (dasima) | 1 piece, about 5 inches square |
| Korean radish (mu)peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices | 200g |
| soup soy sauce (guk-ganjang) | 2 tablespoons |
| clear rice wine or cheongjufor the broth | 1 tablespoon |
| kosher salt | 3/4 teaspoon, plus more as needed |
| beef sirloin or tenderloinsliced paper-thin against the grain | 200g |
| soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| toasted sesame oildivided | 2 teaspoons |
| minced scallion | 1 teaspoon |
| minced garlic | 1 teaspoon |
| sugar | 1/2 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/8 teaspoon |
| somyeon (thin wheat noodles) | 180g |
| large eggsyolks and whites separated | 2 |
| fine sea saltfor the eggs | 1/8 teaspoon |
| neutral oilfor the egg garnish | 1 teaspoon |
| oyster or beech mushroomsseparated into small clusters | 100g |
| carrotcut into 2-inch matchsticks | 1 small (80g) |
| onionthinly sliced | 1/2 medium (100g) |
| minari (Korean water parsley) or crown daisycut into 2-inch lengths | 80g |
| scallionscut into 2-inch lengths | 2 |
| red chilithinly sliced on the diagonal | 1 |
| green chilithinly sliced on the diagonal | 1 |
| cleaned small octopus (nakji) or baby octopus (optional)cut into 2-inch pieces | 200g |
| kosher salt (optional)for blanching the octopus | 1 teaspoon |
| peeled ginkgo nuts (optional)toasted | 12 |
| pine nuts (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
Rinse the sea bream quickly, then dry it very well, including the belly cavity. Score each side with 3 diagonal cuts down to the bone. Rub the fish with 1 teaspoon fine sea salt, 1 tablespoon rice wine, and the grated ginger, then let it stand 20 minutes. The salt firms the flesh so the fish holds its shape in the pot; the rice wine and ginger clean up the raw smell without covering the fish.
Soak the dried shiitake mushrooms in 1 1/2 cups warm water for 20 minutes. Lift out the mushrooms, strain the soaking liquid through a fine sieve, and save both. Put the mushroom liquid, 7 1/2 cups water, anchovies, kelp, radish, and shiitake stems in a pot. Bring it slowly to a simmer over medium heat. Pull the kelp out as soon as the first steady bubbles appear, because kelp left too long turns the broth slick and bitter. Simmer the anchovies 10 minutes more, lift them out, then simmer the radish and mushroom stems another 8 minutes. Strain. Season with soup soy sauce, 1 tablespoon rice wine, and 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt. You should have about 6 to 7 cups clear broth.
Mix the sliced beef with soy sauce, 1 teaspoon sesame oil, minced scallion, minced garlic, sugar, and black pepper. Let it sit 20 minutes while you prepare the garnish. The sugar is only 1/2 teaspoon. In this pot the beef supports the broth; it should not turn the whole pan sweet.
Beat the egg yolks with a tiny pinch of the egg salt, and beat the whites separately with the remaining salt. Wipe a small skillet with 1 teaspoon oil and cook the yolks and whites separately over low heat into thin sheets, with no browning if your hand can manage it. Cool, then cut into fine strips or small diamonds. This is jidan (egg garnish), and it goes on at the end so it stays clean and bright.
Boil the somyeon in plenty of water 1 minute less than the package says, usually about 2 minutes. Rinse under cold running water, rubbing lightly with your hands until the surface starch is gone, then drain hard and toss with 1 teaspoon sesame oil. Cooked noodles thrown straight into the hot pot make the broth cloudy. Rinsing and oiling them keeps each coil separate until the last simmer.
If using octopus, bring 4 cups water with 1 teaspoon kosher salt to a boil in a small pot. Drop in the octopus pieces and lift them out the moment they curl, usually 20 to 30 seconds. Put them on a plate. They will finish in the hot pot; cook them longer now and they toughen before the table sees them.
Pat the seasoned bream dry again, dust it lightly with flour or potato starch, and shake off every excess patch. Heat 2 tablespoons neutral oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the fish 4 to 5 minutes on the first side and 3 to 4 minutes on the second, just until the skin is golden and the flesh is mostly opaque. It should not be cooked dry. The pan-frying sets the skin and bones so the fish can sit in broth without falling apart.
Set a wide jeongol pan on the table burner, still turned off. Spread the onion and a few cooked radish slices from the broth on the bottom to keep the fish from catching. Lay the pan-fried bream in the center. Around it, arrange the seasoned raw beef, soaked shiitake caps, oyster mushrooms, carrot, scallions, chilis, ginkgo nuts, and the blanched octopus if using, keeping each color in its own place. Hold back the noodles, minari, jidan, and pine nuts. The arrangement is not vanity. It lets the table see what is cooking and lets you move quickly when one ingredient is done before another.
Pour 5 cups hot broth around the side of the pan, not directly over the fish. Turn the burner to medium and bring the broth to a steady simmer. Spoon broth over the bream a few times, gently, and skim any foam that rises. Cook 6 to 8 minutes, until the beef is no longer pink, the mushrooms soften, and the thickest part of the fish reaches 63C / 145F or flakes cleanly from the bone. Add more broth from the reserved cup if the pan looks shallow.
Slide the cooked noodles into one side of the pan for the last 60 to 90 seconds, just long enough to warm them. Add the minari, jidan, pine nuts, and any reserved chili slices, then turn the heat low. Taste the broth now. If it is flat, add salt 1/4 teaspoon at a time; if it needs depth, add soup soy sauce 1 teaspoon at a time. 손맛 (hand-taste) is real; measure the correction so you can make the same pot again. Serve from the pan with rice and small banchan, warning the table that the fish is bone-in.
1 serving (about 610g)
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