
Chef Graziella
Asparagi e Uova alla Veneta
The Venetian celebration of spring, where prized white asparagus meets butter-fried eggs and the yolk becomes the only sauce you need. This is restraint as philosophy.
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Delicate egg crepes wrapped around the prized bitter chicory of the Veneto, softened by cream sauce and gratinéed until the edges crisp and the center stays tender.
Radicchio di Treviso is the Veneto's great contribution to the vegetable world, and most Americans do not know what to do with it. They taste the bitterness and reach for sugar, for balsamic reduction, for anything to make it sweet. This is a failure of understanding. The bitterness is why it exists. The bitterness is why Venetians prize it above all other winter vegetables.
These crespelle embrace that bitterness. The radicchio is sautéed gently with shallots until it softens and concentrates, then wrapped in thin egg crepes and blanketed with béchamel. The cream sauce does not mask the bitter edge. It provides contrast. The two flavors need each other.
In the Veneto, this dish appears on winter tables when the radicchio is at its peak, after the first frosts have intensified its flavor. It is not breakfast food there, but a first course for Sunday lunch or a light supper. The crespelle can be made ahead, the filling prepared in the morning, the whole thing assembled and baked when guests arrive. This is practical cooking for people who want to eat well without standing at the stove through dinner.
Radicchio di Treviso has been cultivated in the marshy lowlands between Treviso and Venice since the 16th century. The distinctive elongated heads with their crimson leaves and white ribs result from a forcing process called imbianchimento, where the plants are kept in darkness and running water after harvest. This technique, developed in the 1860s, transforms ordinary chicory into something extraordinary.
Quantity
3
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
melted, plus more for the pan
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 medium
sliced thin
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds (about 3 heads)
cored and cut into 1-inch ribbons
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
2 1/2 cups
warmed
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly grated
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
1 cup
freshly grated
Quantity
2 tablespoons
cut into small pieces
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large eggs | 3 |
| whole milk | 1 cup |
| all-purpose flour | 3/4 cup |
| unsalted buttermelted, plus more for the pan | 2 tablespoons |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons |
| unsalted butter | 2 tablespoons |
| shallotssliced thin | 2 medium |
| radicchio di Trevisocored and cut into 1-inch ribbons | 1 1/2 pounds (about 3 heads) |
| dry white wine | 1/2 cup |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| unsalted butter | 4 tablespoons |
| all-purpose flour | 1/4 cup |
| whole milkwarmed | 2 1/2 cups |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/4 teaspoon |
| white pepper | to taste |
| Parmigiano-Reggianofreshly grated | 1 cup |
| unsalted buttercut into small pieces | 2 tablespoons |
In a bowl, whisk the eggs until uniform. Add the milk gradually, whisking to combine. Sift the flour and salt together, then add to the wet ingredients in three additions, whisking smooth after each. The batter should be the consistency of heavy cream. Add the melted butter and whisk to incorporate. Let the batter rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. This relaxes the gluten and makes tender crespelle.
Heat an 8-inch nonstick skillet or well-seasoned crepe pan over medium heat. Brush lightly with melted butter. Ladle approximately 3 tablespoons of batter into the center of the pan and immediately swirl to coat the bottom evenly. Cook until the edges begin to turn golden and lift from the pan, about 1 minute. Flip with a thin spatula and cook 30 seconds more. Stack the finished crespelle on a plate, separated by wax paper if you worry about sticking. You should have 12 crespelle.
In a large skillet, warm the olive oil and butter over medium heat until the butter melts. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and beginning to color, about 5 minutes. Add the radicchio ribbons. They will seem like far too much. They will cook down dramatically. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until the radicchio wilts and begins to caramelize at the edges, 8 to 10 minutes.
Pour the wine over the radicchio and stir, scraping any caramelized bits from the pan. Let the wine cook away completely, about 3 minutes. The radicchio should be tender and concentrated. Taste and adjust seasoning. The filling should be savory and pleasantly bitter. Set aside to cool slightly.
In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and stir constantly with a wooden spoon for 2 minutes. The mixture should bubble gently but not brown. Remove from heat and add the warm milk all at once, whisking vigorously to prevent lumps. Return to medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 8 minutes. Stir in the nutmeg, salt, and white pepper. The sauce should be the consistency of thick cream.
Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 9 by 13 inch baking dish generously. Spread a thin layer of béchamel on the bottom. Working with one crespelle at a time, place about 2 tablespoons of radicchio filling in the center. Fold the crespelle in half, then in half again to form a triangle, or roll it into a cylinder. Place seam side down in the baking dish. Repeat with remaining crespelle, arranging them snugly in a single layer.
Pour the remaining béchamel over the assembled crespelle, spreading to cover evenly. Sprinkle the Parmigiano-Reggiano over the top. Dot with the butter pieces. Bake until the sauce bubbles at the edges and the top turns golden brown in patches, 25 to 30 minutes. Let rest 5 minutes before serving. The crespelle should be tender, the sauce creamy, the cheese forming a thin crust.
1 serving (about 290g)
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