
Chef Ally
Beef Bourguignon
Humble beef transformed by good red wine, patience, and the kind of slow cooking that fills a house with warmth and brings everyone to the table asking when dinner will be ready.
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Bone-in chicken pieces braised until falling-off-the-bone tender in a wine-dark sauce with golden mushrooms, sweet pearl onions, and smoky bacon. The kind of dish that makes a kitchen smell like home.
Start with the chicken. Find a farmer who raises birds properly, with room to move and something to peck at. These chickens have flavor that survives the long braise, meat that stays interesting after two hours in the pot. Industrial birds turn to cotton.
Coq au vin began as a peasant dish, a way to make an old rooster edible. The long simmer in wine transformed tough meat into something tender and rich. We do not have old roosters anymore, but we have the technique, and it works beautifully on good chicken thighs and drumsticks.
The wine matters. Not the price, but the quality. Use something you would pour yourself a glass of while cooking. A Burgundy is traditional, but any honest Pinot Noir will do. The wine reduces and concentrates, becoming the backbone of a sauce so deep and glossy you will want bread to soak up every trace.
This is a dish that rewards patience. The browning takes time. The braising takes time. The sauce thickens slowly. But the work is simple, and the result is the kind of food that makes people quiet when they take the first bite. Let things taste of what they are.
Quantity
4 pounds
thighs and drumsticks preferred
Quantity
6 ounces
cut into lardons
Quantity
1 bottle (750ml)
Quantity
2 cups
preferably homemade
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
4
smashed
Quantity
4 sprigs
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 pound
quartered
Quantity
1 pound
peeled
Quantity
3 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in, skin-on chicken piecesthighs and drumsticks preferred | 4 pounds |
| thick-cut bacon or slab baconcut into lardons | 6 ounces |
| good Burgundy or Pinot Noir | 1 bottle (750ml) |
| chicken stockpreferably homemade | 2 cups |
| tomato paste | 2 tablespoons |
| garlic clovessmashed | 4 |
| fresh thyme | 4 sprigs |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| cremini mushroomsquartered | 1 pound |
| pearl onionspeeled | 1 pound |
| unsalted butterdivided | 3 tablespoons |
| all-purpose flour | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleychopped | 2 tablespoons |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Pat the chicken pieces completely dry with paper towels. This matters more than you think. Wet skin will not brown, and browning is where flavor begins. Season generously with salt and pepper on all sides. Let the pieces sit at room temperature for thirty minutes while you prepare everything else.
Set a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the bacon lardons and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the pieces turn golden and crisp, about eight to ten minutes. The kitchen will smell like promise. Transfer the bacon to a plate, leaving every drop of fat in the pot.
Increase heat to medium-high. Working in batches so you do not crowd the pot, brown the chicken pieces in the bacon fat. Give each piece four to five minutes per side, resisting the urge to move them. You want deep golden color, the kind that looks almost too dark. This is not overcooking. This is building the foundation of your sauce. Transfer browned pieces to the plate with the bacon.
Pour off all but two tablespoons of fat from the pot. Add the smashed garlic and cook until fragrant, about thirty seconds. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for one minute, letting it darken slightly and lose its raw edge. The paste will cling to the fond on the bottom of the pot. This is good.
Pour in the entire bottle of wine. Yes, the whole bottle. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up every bit of caramelized fond from the bottom. Those brown bits are concentrated flavor. Bring the wine to a boil and let it reduce by about one third, approximately ten minutes. The raw alcohol smell will soften into something rich and promising.
Add the chicken stock, thyme sprigs, and bay leaves. Nestle the chicken pieces back into the pot, skin side up, along with any juices that collected on the plate. The liquid should come about halfway up the chicken. Do not submerge it. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cover and reduce heat to low. Let it braise undisturbed for one hour.
While the chicken braises, prepare your mushrooms and onions. Heat one tablespoon of butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the quartered mushrooms in a single layer and cook without stirring until they develop golden color on one side, about four minutes. Stir and continue cooking until tender and deeply browned, another three to four minutes. Season with salt and transfer to a bowl.
In the same skillet, add another tablespoon of butter and the pearl onions. Cook over medium heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until the onions are golden in spots and tender when pierced with a knife, about twelve to fifteen minutes. They should look burnished and smell sweet. Add them to the mushrooms.
After the chicken has braised for one hour, it should be very tender, the meat pulling easily from the bone. Transfer chicken pieces to a platter and tent loosely with foil. Remove and discard thyme stems and bay leaves. Bring the braising liquid to a simmer. In a small bowl, mash the remaining tablespoon of butter with the flour to form a paste. Whisk this into the simmering sauce bit by bit. Let it cook for five minutes until the sauce thickens enough to coat a spoon.
Return the chicken to the pot along with the bacon, mushrooms, and pearl onions. Spoon the sauce over everything and warm through for five minutes. Taste the sauce and adjust salt and pepper. Scatter fresh parsley over the top. Serve directly from the pot, or arrange on a warm platter with crusty bread to catch every drop of sauce.
1 serving (about 400g)
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