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The quintessential Jewish deli sandwich: piles of warm corned beef, tangy sauerkraut, and molten Swiss cheese pressed between slices of seeded rye until golden and crisp, dressed with homemade Russian dressing that ties every layer together.
The Reuben has two competing origin stories, and I refuse to settle the matter. Either Reuben Kulakofsky invented it during a late-night poker game at Omaha's Blackstone Hotel in the 1920s, or Arnold Reuben created it at his famous New York delicatessen around the same time. Both cities claim it. Both deserve to.
What matters is what you build between those slices of rye. This is architecture. The corned beef must be sliced thin enough to fold but thick enough to provide substance. The sauerkraut needs draining until it squeaks when you squeeze it, otherwise your bread turns to paste. The Swiss cheese must melt into a blanket that binds the layers, and the Russian dressing cuts through the richness with just enough acid to keep you reaching for the next bite.
I've eaten Reubens from Katz's in Manhattan to little delis in Omaha that claim authenticity. The best ones share a quality: they respect the balance. No single ingredient dominates. The bread is griddled until it achieves that particular shade of golden brown that shatters slightly when you bite through, giving way to the warmth and chaos within.
Make your own Russian dressing. It takes five minutes and transforms the sandwich from good to transcendent. The bottled stuff carries a metallic undertone that no amount of quality corned beef can overcome.
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
drained
Quantity
1 tablespoon
drained
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
8 slices
Quantity
1 1/4 pounds
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 cup
drained and squeezed very dry
Quantity
8 slices (about 6 ounces)
Quantity
4 tablespoons
softened
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mayonnaise | 1/2 cup |
| ketchup | 2 tablespoons |
| prepared horseradishdrained | 1 tablespoon |
| sweet pickle relishdrained | 1 tablespoon |
| Worcestershire sauce | 1 teaspoon |
| paprika | 1/4 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | pinch |
| seeded rye bread | 8 slices |
| corned beefthinly sliced | 1 1/4 pounds |
| sauerkrautdrained and squeezed very dry | 1 cup |
| Swiss cheese | 8 slices (about 6 ounces) |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 4 tablespoons |
Whisk together the mayonnaise, ketchup, horseradish, pickle relish, Worcestershire, paprika, and salt in a small bowl until uniform. The color should be a pale coral, not the aggressive orange of bottled dressing. Taste it. The horseradish should announce itself but not overwhelm. Adjust the seasoning if needed. Set aside.
Dump the sauerkraut into a fine-mesh strainer and press down firmly with the back of a spoon, forcing out as much liquid as possible. Transfer to a clean kitchen towel, gather the ends, and twist until the kraut is nearly dry. This step is non-negotiable. Wet sauerkraut is the death of a proper Reuben, turning bread soggy before you take the first bite.
Separate the corned beef slices and let them come to room temperature for ten minutes. If your beef is cold from the deli counter, heat a skillet over medium heat and warm the slices briefly, just until they lose their chill. Piling cold meat onto a sandwich means the cheese won't melt properly and the whole thing tastes wrong.
Lay out all eight slices of rye bread. Spread the Russian dressing generously on one side of each slice, about a tablespoon per slice. On four of the slices, layer the Swiss cheese first, directly on the dressing. This creates a moisture barrier. Add the corned beef in loose folds, not packed tight. Crown with the squeezed sauerkraut, distributing it evenly. Top with the remaining bread slices, dressing side down.
Spread the softened butter evenly across the top slice of each assembled sandwich. Use about half a tablespoon per side. The butter needs to cover the bread completely to the edges, or you'll have pale spots that refuse to crisp.
Heat a large cast iron skillet or griddle over medium heat. When a flick of water sizzles and evaporates, the pan is ready. Place two sandwiches in the pan, buttered side down. Immediately butter the top slices while the bottoms cook. Press down gently with a spatula or place a smaller pan on top for weight. Cook until the bottom is deeply golden and crisp, about four minutes.
Flip the sandwiches carefully. The griddled side should be a rich golden brown with darker spots where the rye pressed against the iron. Cook the second side another three to four minutes until equally golden. The cheese should be visibly melted, oozing slightly at the edges. Repeat with remaining sandwiches.
Transfer sandwiches to a cutting board and let them rest for one full minute. This brief pause allows the cheese to set slightly, preventing the entire filling from sliding out when you cut. Slice diagonally with a sharp serrated knife, pressing down firmly in one confident motion. Serve immediately with dill pickles and a cold beer.
1 serving (about 360g)
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