
Chef Margarida
Azeitonas Temperadas
The marinated olives that sit on every tasca table in Portugal, swimming in garlic, herbs, and enough azeite to make you reach for bread before you've even ordered. This is how we begin.
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Crispy triangles of spiced meat wrapped in golden pastry, carrying the flavors of Goa across the ocean to every Portuguese tasca and family gathering. Colonial history you can eat.
These came to Portugal the same way so many good things did: through the ships, through the centuries of connection between Lisbon and Goa. The chamuça is a samosa that learned to speak Portuguese.
I first tasted proper chamuças at a restaurant in Mouraria, Lisbon's old Moorish quarter, where Goan families have been cooking for generations. The pastry shattered when I bit into it, the spiced meat inside still warm, and I understood immediately why these had traveled so far from their origins. Some foods belong everywhere.
The spicing is what tells you this isn't Indian street food anymore. It's Portuguese. The cumin and coriander are there, yes, but the proportions have shifted over centuries. There's cinnamon and cloves, echoes of the spice trade that built an empire. There's coentros stirred in at the end, because this is Portugal and coentros goes in everything south of the Douro. The filling is beef or pork, not the lamb or vegetables you'd find in India, because Portuguese grandmothers cook with what Portuguese grandmothers cook with.
At Mesa da Avó, I serve these when I want to remind people that Portuguese cuisine isn't just bacalhau and sardines. Our cooking spans continents because our history does. Every chamuça on the plate is a story about ships and spices and cultures meeting. A cozinha é memória. This is memory you can taste.
Chamuças arrived in Portugal through Goa, which was a Portuguese territory from 1510 until 1961. The word itself comes from the Hindi 'samosa,' transformed through centuries of Portuguese colonial cooking. Goan-Portuguese families brought these recipes to Lisbon during the mid-20th century, and the chamuça became a beloved petisco in restaurants and home kitchens, particularly in neighborhoods with Goan communities.
Quantity
500g
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 large
finely diced
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
grated
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon, or to taste
Quantity
1/2 cup
finely chopped
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
freshly ground, to taste
Quantity
24 sheets
Quantity
2 tablespoons flour mixed with 3 tablespoons water
for sealing
Quantity
for frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| ground beef or pork | 500g |
| extra virgin olive oil (azeite) | 2 tablespoons |
| onionfinely diced | 1 large |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| fresh gingergrated | 1 tablespoon |
| ground cumin | 2 teaspoons |
| ground coriander | 2 teaspoons |
| turmeric | 1 teaspoon |
| ground cinnamon | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ground cloves | 1/4 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1/4 teaspoon, or to taste |
| fresh cilantro (coentros)finely chopped | 1/2 cup |
| salt | 1 teaspoon |
| black pepper | freshly ground, to taste |
| spring roll wrappers | 24 sheets |
| flour pastefor sealing | 2 tablespoons flour mixed with 3 tablespoons water |
| vegetable oil | for frying |
Heat the azeite in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook slowly until soft and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger, stirring until fragrant, about 1 minute. The kitchen should smell like somewhere between Lisbon and Goa. That's exactly where we're cooking from.
Add the cumin, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, cloves, and cayenne to the pan. Stir constantly for 30 seconds until the spices bloom and release their fragrance. This step matters. Raw spices taste dusty and flat. Toasted spices sing.
Add the ground meat, breaking it into small pieces with a wooden spoon. Cook over medium-high heat until browned and cooked through, about 8 to 10 minutes. The meat should be dry, not wet. Wet filling makes soggy chamuças. If there's liquid, keep cooking until it evaporates. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and stir in the coentros. Let cool completely.
Cut each spring roll wrapper in half lengthwise to create two strips. Working with one strip at a time, place about 1 tablespoon of filling near the bottom corner. Fold the corner up and over to create a triangle. Continue folding the triangle up the strip, maintaining the triangular shape, like folding a flag. Brush the final edge with flour paste and press to seal. The shape should be neat, compact, a tight little package.
Heat vegetable oil in a deep pot or wok to 175°C (350°F). Fry the chamuças in batches of 4 or 5, turning occasionally, until golden brown and crispy all over, about 3 to 4 minutes per batch. Don't crowd the pan. Crowding drops the oil temperature and you get greasy, pale chamuças instead of crispy golden ones. Drain on a wire rack set over paper towels.
Serve warm with lemon wedges for squeezing and a bowl of mango chutney or piri-piri sauce on the side. Chamuças are petiscos, meant for sharing, for picking at while conversation flows and the wine keeps pouring. Put them in the center of the table and watch them disappear.
1 serving (about 55g)
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