Chef Graziella
Caponata Siciliana
The great sweet-sour eggplant dish of Sicily, where each vegetable is fried separately then united in a tomato sauce sharpened with vinegar and softened with a little sugar. This is not a recipe to rush.
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Carciofi alla Romana
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The great spring dish of the Roman table, where artichokes stuffed with wild mint and garlic surrender to a slow braise until they yield completely. The perfumed cooking liquid is not sauce. It is the point.
Main Dishes
Italian, Roman
Special Occasion
Dinner Party
45 min
Active Time
45 min cook•1 hr 30 min total
Yield4 servings
In Rome, the arrival of artichokes signals that winter has finally loosened its grip. The markets in Campo de' Fiori and Testaccio pile them high, their stems intact, their leaves still tight. Roman cooks know these artichokes by variety and by source. They know that the carciofo romanesco, round and thornless, is bred for this preparation. They know that the stems, which Americans discard, contain the same sweet flesh as the heart.
Carciofi alla Romana requires a specific herb that grows wild in the Roman countryside: mentuccia, a variety of mint with smaller leaves and a more delicate flavor than the mint sold in American markets. I have made this dish for fifty years, and I will tell you the truth. Regular mint combined with parsley comes close enough. Do not let the absence of mentuccia stop you from making this dish.
The technique is unusual. The artichokes braise stem-up, inverted from how they grow. This allows the leaves to open gently, the filling to penetrate, and the heart to cook through without the outer leaves turning to mush. The braising liquid, reduced to an intensely flavored oil, is meant to be spooned over each artichoke and soaked up with bread. What remains on the plate matters as much as what you put there.
Carciofi alla Romana belongs to the cucina povera of the Roman Jewish ghetto, where cooks transformed humble vegetables into dishes of remarkable depth. The technique of braising artichokes stem-up appears in Roman cookbooks from the 19th century, though the dish is certainly older. It remains inseparable from the spring markets of Rome, where vendors will clean your artichokes for you if you ask.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
globe artichokes
Quantity
4 large
with stems attached
lemons
Quantity
2
halved
fresh mint leaves
Quantity
1/4 cup
chopped fine
fresh flat-leaf parsley
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped fine
garlic cloves
Quantity
3
minced
kosher salt
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, plus more for seasoning
black pepper
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
extra virgin olive oil
Quantity
3/4 cup
water
Quantity
1 cup
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| globe artichokeswith stems attached | 4 large |
| lemonshalved | 2 |
| fresh mint leaveschopped fine | 1/4 cup |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleychopped fine | 2 tablespoons |
| garlic clovesminced | 3 |
| kosher salt | 1/2 teaspoon, plus more for seasoning |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| extra virgin olive oil | 3/4 cup |
| water | 1 cup |
Equipment Needed
- •Heavy lidded pot or Dutch oven sized to hold 4 artichokes snugly
- •Vegetable peeler or paring knife for stems
- •Melon baller or small spoon for removing chokes
- •Large bowl for acidulated water
Instructions
- 1
Prepare acidulated water
Fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze in the juice of one lemon, dropping the halves into the bowl. This prevents the artichokes from blackening the moment air touches the cut surfaces. You will work quickly, but the lemon water forgives hesitation.
- 2
Clean the artichokes
Snap off the dark outer leaves until you reach the pale yellow-green inner leaves. This takes courage. You will remove more than seems reasonable. Continue until the leaves you expose are tender enough to eat. Cut one inch off the top with a sharp knife. Trim the stem, leaving three to four inches attached, then peel away the fibrous outer layer with a vegetable peeler or paring knife until you reach the pale green core. Rub all cut surfaces with the remaining lemon half. Submerge immediately in the acidulated water.
The stem is not waste. Properly peeled, it tastes like the heart and should be eaten. Romans consider throwing away the stem a sign of ignorance. - 3
Remove the choke
Working with one artichoke at a time, spread the inner leaves apart gently with your fingers to expose the fuzzy choke at the center. Use a small spoon or melon baller to scrape out the choke completely. It should come away in fibrous clumps. If any purple-tipped leaves surround the choke, remove those as well. They are bitter. Return the cleaned artichoke to the lemon water while you prepare the others.
- 4
Make the filling
In a small bowl, combine the chopped mint, parsley, minced garlic, half teaspoon of salt, and several grindings of black pepper. Mix thoroughly. The filling should be fragrant and assertive. It will mellow during cooking.
- 5
Stuff the artichokes
Remove the artichokes from the water and shake off excess liquid. Do not pat dry. Gently spread the leaves apart and press the herb mixture into the cavity and between the inner leaves. Use your fingers. Distribute the filling evenly among all four artichokes, pressing it firmly into the center and tucking it between the leaves where it will perfume the entire vegetable during braising.
- 6
Arrange for braising
Choose a heavy pot just wide enough to hold all four artichokes snugly, stems pointing upward. This position is essential. The artichokes braise upside down from how they grow, allowing the leaves to open slightly and the filling to penetrate. Place them in the pot stem-side up. Pour the olive oil over and around them. Add the water to the pot. Season the artichokes with additional salt.
The pot size matters. Too large and the braising liquid spreads thin and evaporates. Too small and the artichokes cannot cook evenly. They should fit like eggs in a carton. - 7
Braise until tender
Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Cover the pot and reduce heat to maintain the laziest bubble. Braise for 35 to 45 minutes, checking occasionally. The artichokes are done when a knife slides easily into the base and the outer leaves pull away without resistance. The braising liquid should reduce to a few tablespoons of intensely flavored oil. If it evaporates too quickly, add water by the tablespoon.
- 8
Serve properly
Transfer the artichokes to a serving platter, stems still pointing up. Spoon the remaining braising liquid over each one. Serve warm or at room temperature. Never cold from the refrigerator. Romans eat these with their hands, pulling off leaves and dragging them through the fragrant oil pooled on the plate. The heart and stem are the final reward.
Chef Tips
- •Seek artichokes with long stems still attached. The stem is not packaging. It is food. If your market sells only trimmed artichokes, ask when they receive deliveries and arrive early.
- •Mentuccia is nearly impossible to find outside Italy. Fresh spearmint mixed with flat-leaf parsley approximates the flavor. Do not use peppermint, which is too aggressive.
- •The pot selection is critical. A pot too wide allows the braising liquid to evaporate before the artichokes are tender. A Dutch oven or deep sauté pan that holds the artichokes snugly is ideal.
- •These artichokes are traditional at room temperature, which makes them ideal for entertaining. Braise them in the afternoon, let them rest, and serve at dinner. The flavor improves as they sit.
Advance Preparation
- •Artichokes can be cleaned and held in acidulated water for up to two hours before stuffing and braising.
- •The finished dish holds well at room temperature for up to four hours. Do not refrigerate if serving the same day.
- •Leftover artichokes can be refrigerated overnight and brought to room temperature before serving. They do not reheat well. The texture suffers.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 180g)
Calories
330 calories
Total Fat
29 g
Saturated Fat
4 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
24 g
Cholesterol
0 mg
Sodium
430 mg
Total Carbohydrates
18 g
Dietary Fiber
8 g
Sugars
2 g
Protein
5 g
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