Frittata di Carciofi

The frittata is not an omelet. Americans confuse the two because both involve eggs in a pan, but the technique and intention are entirely different. An omelet is French, cooked fast over high heat, folded, and served immediately. A frittata is Italian, cooked slowly over low heat, flat as a cake, and served at any temperature. The omelet is about the egg. The frittata is about what you put in it.

In Rome, when the first artichokes arrive in early spring, this is what home cooks make. The artichokes must be cleaned properly, which takes time. Americans often skip this step and wonder why their artichokes taste of hay and fiber. There is no shortcut. You remove the tough outer leaves. You trim the tops. You scrape out the choke. You drop the hearts in lemon water so they do not turn gray. Then, and only then, do you have something worth cooking.

Pecorino Romano is the cheese of Rome, not Parmigiano-Reggiano. They are not interchangeable. Pecorino is sharper, saltier, with a distinctive tang from sheep's milk. When you taste this frittata, you taste Rome.