Carciofi alla Giudia

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 6-quart Dutch oven or deep pot for frying
• •Deep-fry or candy thermometer
• •Spider skimmer or slotted spoon
• •Wire rack set over sheet pan
• •Sharp paring knife
• •Small spoon for removing choke

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare acidulated water

   Fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze in the juice of both lemons. Drop in the squeezed lemon halves as well. This prevents the artichokes from oxidizing as you work. You will be trimming for some time. Without the lemon water, your artichokes will turn an unappetizing gray before you finish.

2. 2

   Trim the artichokes

   Working with one artichoke at a time, snap off the tough outer leaves by bending them backward until they break at the tender point. Continue removing leaves, working around the artichoke in a spiral pattern, until you reach leaves that are pale green to yellow. You will remove more than seems reasonable. This is correct. Cut off the top third of the artichoke, where the leaves remain tough. Using a paring knife, trim the dark green from the base and stem, exposing the pale flesh beneath. The stem is edible and delicious once peeled. Leave two to three inches attached. If there is a fuzzy choke in the center, scoop it out with a small spoon. Drop each trimmed artichoke immediately into the lemon water.

   Roman artichokes (carciofi romaneschi) have no choke and are entirely edible. If you can find them, your work is simplified. Most globe artichokes available elsewhere require removing the choke.
3. 3

   Dry the artichokes thoroughly

   Remove the artichokes from the water and shake off excess liquid. Pat completely dry with clean towels, reaching between the leaves. Water remaining on the artichokes will cause the oil to spatter violently. Take this step seriously. Gently spread the leaves outward with your fingers, opening the artichoke slightly to allow oil to penetrate during frying.

4. 4

   First fry: cook through

   Pour the olive oil into a deep, heavy pot. The oil should be at least three inches deep. Heat to 300°F (150°C). Lower the artichokes into the oil stem-side up, working in batches of two or three to avoid crowding. Fry gently for 10 to 15 minutes, turning occasionally with tongs, until the artichokes are tender when pierced with a knife and the leaves have begun to separate. The color will be pale gold. Remove and drain on a rack set over a sheet pan. Let the artichokes cool for at least 15 minutes.

   Use a thermometer. Temperature control is everything in this dish. Too hot at this stage and the outside burns before the inside cooks. Too cool and the artichokes absorb oil and turn greasy.
5. 5

   Second fry: crisp and bloom

   Increase the oil temperature to 350°F (175°C). Return the artichokes to the oil, again stem-side up. Fry for 3 to 4 minutes until the edges of the leaves turn deep golden brown and begin to curl and crisp. Now comes the critical moment: using a slotted spoon or spider, press each artichoke face-down against the bottom of the pot, flattening it slightly and forcing the leaves to spread open like a flower. Hold for 30 seconds. The leaves should sizzle and crisp. Lift the artichoke and turn it stem-side down for a final 30 seconds.

6. 6

   Optional: the water splash

   For the crispest leaves, some Roman cooks flick a few drops of cold water onto the artichokes during the final seconds of frying. The water vaporizes instantly, creating additional crispness. This is traditional but dangerous. Stand back. The oil will spatter. If you choose not to do this, your artichokes will still be excellent.

   This technique requires confidence and a long-sleeved shirt. The spattering is dramatic. Many excellent cooks skip it entirely. The dish does not suffer.
7. 7

   Season and serve immediately

   Drain the artichokes briefly on the rack, then transfer to a warm platter. Season immediately with flaky salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve at once, while the leaves still shatter when bitten. The outer leaves should crunch like chips. The heart should be creamy and yielding. Every moment you wait, the artichoke loses its magic. Call your guests to the table before you begin the second fry.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out Roman artichokes (carciofi romaneschi or cimaroli) if you can find them. They are smaller, rounder, and have no choke. Italian specialty markets sometimes carry them in spring. Failing that, use the freshest globe artichokes available, choosing those that feel heavy and squeak when squeezed.
• •The oil can be strained and reused once for another batch of artichokes. After that, it takes on too much flavor. Never use it for anything else.
• •Do not attempt this dish with old artichokes. The leaves will be tough no matter how long you fry them. Freshness is everything. In Rome, artichoke season runs from late winter through spring. The best carciofi alla Giudia are made in March and April.
• •If you lack the nerve to press the artichokes face-down into the oil, you can skip this step. The artichokes will not bloom as dramatically, but they will still taste correct.

Advance Preparation

• •Artichokes can be trimmed up to 4 hours ahead and held in acidulated water in the refrigerator. Dry thoroughly before frying.
• •The first fry can be completed up to 2 hours ahead. Leave the artichokes at room temperature on the rack. The second fry must happen just before serving.
• •This dish cannot be reheated successfully. The crisp leaves turn leathery. Eat it immediately or do not make it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 250g)