
Chef Lupita
Alegrías Queretanas de Amaranto y Piloncillo
Querétaro's mercado candy of popped amaranto pressed with dark piloncillo syrup, pepitas, pecans, and cacahuate, a Bajío sweet that respects the seed before it decorates the table.
A cooking platform built around craft, culture, and the stories behind what we eat.

Created by
Guanajuato's cajeta de muerto, a dense Bajío paste of camote, guayaba, piloncillo, and canela, cooked until the spoon leaves a clean path in the cazo.
Guanajuato, in the Bajío, makes this cajeta de camote for Día de Muertos, when the family table and the cemetery vigil both need sweets that can sit, travel, and feed people without ceremony. This is not Cajeta de Celaya, the goat milk caramel of the dulceros. That belongs to another register. This is the cajeta de muerto: camote and guayaba cooked down until they become a firm paste, cut into squares or packed into a clay tazón for the ofrenda.
The camote gives body. The guayaba gives perfume and acidity. The piloncillo gives the dark mineral sweetness that white sugar can't imitate, and the canela de Ceylán ties it together without making the pot taste like a bakery counter. I learned a version from a señora near the Mercado Hidalgo in Guanajuato capital, who corrected me before I even touched the spoon: low fire, wide pot, patience. No me vengas con atajos.
The technique belongs to women who knew how to preserve fruit and tubers before refrigeration was common in the house. You cook until the paste pulls away from the bottom and holds its shape on a plate. Not until you're tired. Until it's ready. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
In central Mexico, cooked fruit pastes and tuber sweets became common during the colonial period as Spanish sugar-preserving methods met native ingredients like camote, a pre-Columbian crop cultivated across Mesoamerica. Guanajuato's mining economy and convent kitchens helped spread sugar work in the Bajío, but market sweets like cajeta de camote remained household and feria food rather than formal convent confectionery. During Día de Muertos, dense sweets such as camote, ate de guayaba, charamuscas, and piloncillo candies were valued because they held well on ofrendas and could be carried to cemetery vigils.
Quantity
2 pounds
scrubbed
Quantity
1 pound
washed and trimmed
Quantity
12 ounces
chopped
Quantity
1 cup, plus more as needed
Quantity
1
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 strip
white pith removed
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for greasing the mold
Quantity
1/4 cup
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| orange-fleshed camotescrubbed | 2 pounds |
| ripe guayabawashed and trimmed | 1 pound |
| piloncillochopped | 12 ounces |
| water | 1 cup, plus more as needed |
| Mexican cinnamon stick, preferably canela de Ceylán | 1 |
| whole cloves | 2 |
| lime peelwhite pith removed | 1 strip |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fresh lime juice | 1 tablespoon |
| unsalted butter or neutral oilfor greasing the mold | 1 tablespoon |
| toasted sesame seeds (optional)for finishing | 1/4 cup |
Place the camotes in a pot and cover with water by two inches. Simmer until a knife slides through the thickest part without resistance, 35 to 45 minutes depending on size. Drain, cool just enough to handle, peel, and mash while still warm. Warm camote breaks down cleanly. Cold camote fights the spoon.
Cut the guayabas in half and place them in a small pot with 1 cup water. Simmer for 12 to 15 minutes, until the skins soften and the flesh collapses. Pass through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing hard with a spoon to capture the pulp and leave the seeds behind. Guayaba seeds are hard. Leave them in and every bite will remind you that you were lazy.
In a wide copper cazo, heavy Dutch oven, or thick-bottomed cazuela, combine the piloncillo, canela, cloves, lime peel, salt, and 1/2 cup water. Cook over medium-low heat until the piloncillo dissolves into a dark syrup, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the cloves and lime peel. Leave the canela in for now. The syrup should smell like the dulcería de barrio, not like white sugar in a pot.
Add the mashed camote and strained guayaba pulp to the piloncillo syrup. Stir with a wooden cuchara until the mixture is even, with no dry pockets of camote. Lower the heat. This is where the recipe becomes work. The paste will sputter and thicken, so stir from the edges into the center and scrape the bottom every minute.
Cook 45 to 60 minutes over low heat, stirring constantly near the end, until the paste darkens to deep amber-orange and pulls away from the pot in one heavy mass. Drag the spoon through the center. If the path fills immediately, keep cooking. If the path stays clean for three seconds and the paste holds on the spoon, it is ready. Así se hace y punto.
Remove the canela stick. Stir in the lime juice. Taste once. It should be sweet, yes, but the guayaba should still speak. If it tastes flat, add one more pinch of salt, not more sugar. Grease a shallow clay platón, small baking dish, or individual tazones and spread the paste into an even layer.
Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds if using. Let cool at room temperature for at least 4 hours, until firm enough to cut. For clean squares, chill 1 hour after cooling, then cut with a lightly oiled knife. Serve in small pieces with queso fresco, café de olla, or place it on the ofrenda in a clay dish from Dolores Hidalgo. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
1 serving (about 45g)
Culinary guides, cultural storytelling, and the editorial depth that makes cooking meaningful.
Discover Culinary Explorer
Chef Lupita
Querétaro's mercado candy of popped amaranto pressed with dark piloncillo syrup, pepitas, pecans, and cacahuate, a Bajío sweet that respects the seed before it decorates the table.

Chef Lupita
Guanajuato's Day of the Dead alfeñiques are cane-sugar figures pressed in dry molds, finished with bright icing, and set on Talavera guanajuatense platones for the altar.

Chef Lupita
Guanajuato's Bajio rice pudding, slow-cooked with piloncillo, leche de cabra, canela, and orange peel until the milk thickens into something dark, practical, and unmistakably regional.

Chef Lupita
Aguascalientes's Calvillo guava paste, cooked in a copper cazo until the fruit and cane sugar tighten into a firm slab, then sliced thick beside queso fresco de rancho.