
Chef Lupita
Empanadas de Camarón Seco de la Costa Chica
Guerrero and Oaxaca's Costa Chica empanadas fold fresh masa around dried shrimp, chile costeño, tomate, and epazote, then fry them until the edges turn crisp and golden.
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Guerrero's Costa Chica bollos, ripe plantain pounded into dough, filled with dried shrimp and chile costeño, then fried until the outside turns dark and sweet.
Guerrero, Costa Chica, Cuajinicuilapa. This bollo belongs to the Perla Negra del Pacífico, to the Afro-Mexicano kitchens where plátano macho, dried shrimp, chile costeño, and hot fat have fed families long before the country learned to say Afro-Mexican out loud.
The plantain must be ripe, blackened in spots, soft enough to pound into a sticky dough but not collapsing into sugar. The filling is camarón seco worked into a paste with chile costeño, garlic, onion, tomato, and epazote. That chile is not decoration. It tastes like the coast: sharp, smoky, a little fruity, made for seafood and masa and plantain. Ask for it in the market by name. Si no conoces el mercado, no conoces la cocina.
I learned this style of bollo from women who cook between Cuajinicuilapa and San Nicolás Tolentino, where the food carries Africa, Indigenous Guerrero, and the Pacific coast in the same pot. They shape the plantain in the palm, seal the shrimp inside, and fry until the outside goes dark mahogany. Not golden. Dark. That is the sugar in the plátano meeting the manteca. La cocina no es decoración, es trabajo.
Serve them on banana leaf or a clay plate, with lime and a salsa de chile costeño if you want more bite. This is not a sweet snack and it is not a croqueta. It is Costa Chica cooking, compact, practical, and serious. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Cuajinicuilapa, Guerrero, known as the Perla Negra del Pacífico, is one of Mexico's most visible Afro-Mexicano communities, with culinary traditions shaped by African-descended people, Indigenous Amuzgo and Mixtec neighbors, and Pacific coastal trade. The 2020 constitutional recognition of Afro-Mexican peoples was overdue; plantain, coconut, seafood, dried shrimp, and chile costeño had already marked the foodways of Guerrero and Oaxaca's Costa Chica for centuries. Dried shrimp fillings appear across coastal Mexico because salting and drying made seafood portable before refrigeration, but the ripe plantain dough gives this Guerrero version its own identity.
Quantity
5 large
skins yellow with black patches
Quantity
1 teaspoon
divided
Quantity
1 tablespoon
use only if the plantain dough is too loose
Quantity
2 ounces
heads and shells removed if present
Quantity
3
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
1 medium
roasted
Quantity
1/4 medium
roasted
Quantity
2
roasted unpeeled, then peeled
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for the filling
Quantity
1 tablespoon
finely chopped
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
as needed
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
for frying
Quantity
as needed
wiped clean and cut into squares
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| ripe plátanos machosskins yellow with black patches | 5 large |
| kosher saltdivided | 1 teaspoon |
| masa harina (optional)use only if the plantain dough is too loose | 1 tablespoon |
| dried shrimpheads and shells removed if present | 2 ounces |
| dried chile costeñostemmed and seeded | 3 |
| Roma tomatoroasted | 1 medium |
| white onionroasted | 1/4 medium |
| garlic clovesroasted unpeeled, then peeled | 2 |
| manteca de cerdofor the filling | 1 tablespoon |
| fresh epazotefinely chopped | 1 tablespoon |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1/4 teaspoon |
| water or shrimp soaking liquidas needed | 2 tablespoons |
| manteca de cerdofor frying | 1 1/2 cups |
| banana leaves (optional)wiped clean and cut into squares | as needed |
| lime wedges (optional) | for serving |
| salsa de chile costeño (optional) | for serving |
Cut the ends from the plátanos machos and score the skins lengthwise. Place them in a pot, cover with water, and simmer for 18 to 22 minutes, until a knife slides through the flesh without resistance. Drain, cool just enough to handle, then peel. Do not wait until they are cold. Warm plantain pounds smoother.
Place the warm plantain flesh in a large bowl or on a metate if you have one. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and pound with a wooden masher until the plantain becomes a smooth, sticky dough. It should hold together when pressed in your palm. If it spreads like puree, work in 1 tablespoon masa harina. That is a correction, not the goal.
Rinse the dried shrimp briefly to remove surface salt. Cover with hot water for 10 minutes, then drain, saving 2 tablespoons of the soaking liquid. Chop the shrimp very finely or pulse once or twice in a blender. You want a rough paste, not powder. The filling should still taste like shrimp.
Heat a dry comal over medium. Toast the chile costeño for 10 to 15 seconds per side, just until fragrant and flexible. Watch it. This chile is small and burns fast. Burned chile makes the filling bitter, and no lime at the table will save it.
In a molcajete, grind the toasted chile costeño with the roasted garlic and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add the roasted onion and tomato and work them into a thick paste. Stir in the chopped dried shrimp, epazote, and Mexican oregano. Add a spoonful of shrimp soaking liquid only if the paste is too dry to hold together.
Melt 1 tablespoon manteca de cerdo in a small clay cazuela or skillet over medium heat. Add the shrimp paste and fry for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly, until it darkens slightly and smells concentrated. La manteca es el sabor. This step wakes up the chile and takes the raw edge off the tomato.
Rub a little manteca on your hands. Divide the plantain dough into 12 portions. Flatten one portion into a thick oval in your palm, place 1 heaping teaspoon of shrimp filling in the center, then fold the plantain around it and seal completely. Shape into a short oval bollo. If filling leaks out now, it will leak harder in the pan. Seal it properly.
Melt the 1 1/2 cups manteca de cerdo in a wide heavy skillet over medium heat. Fry the bollos in batches, turning carefully, 2 to 3 minutes per side, until the outside is dark mahogany with a thin crisp edge. Not pale gold. Dark. The sugar in the ripe plantain has to caramelize. Drain on a rack, not paper towels, so the edges stay firm.
Lay the bollos on banana leaf squares or a warm clay plate. Serve with lime wedges and salsa de chile costeño. Eat them warm or at room temperature. That is why they travel well for picnics and market days. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 115g)
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