Homard à la Grammont

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy chef's knife and kitchen shears
• •Large nonslip cutting board
• •Small saucepan
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Two large bowls for an ice bath
• •Two chilled rimmed trays
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Oval serving platter

Instructions

1. 1

   Divide the lobster

   Begin with the lobster cooked and cooled in its liquor as directed in Mousse de Homard (No. 956). Set it belly-side down on a steady board and split it lengthwise from head through tail, using a heavy knife and kitchen shears where the shell resists. Lift out the tail meat whole, remove the dark intestinal vein, trim the meat neatly, and cut it crosswise into 8 regular collops of equal thickness. Remove the claws and reserve their meat, with the edible creamy body meat, for the mousse. Discard the stomach, gills, and shell debris, then wipe the two half-carapaces clean and dry them thoroughly. Nest the shells in a folded towel on a tray so they cannot rock, and refrigerate them.

2. 2

   Poach the oysters

   Strain the oyster liquor through a fine sieve into a small saucepan and bring it just to a tremble. Add the oysters and poach gently, turning once, until they are plump, very pale, and opaque through the centre, about 1 minute depending on size; they should reach 145°F (63°C), but the liquor must never boil hard or they will tighten. Lift them onto a clean cloth or paper towel, blot every surface dry, and chill them uncovered. Aspic cannot cling to moisture, so dry oysters are not a nicety here, they are the technique.

3. 3

   Tint the mousse

   Complete the Mousse de Homard (No. 956) from the reserved claw and creamy body meat according to its separate formula, leaving it soft and unset. Place its bowl over ice. Blend the sifted paprika into a small spoonful of mousse until no red specks remain, then fold this back into the rest until the colour is a decided, even pink. Work gently so the barely whipped cream keeps its air. If the mousse turns loose or glossy around the edge, it is becoming too warm; stop, settle the bowl firmly into the ice, and fold once or twice as it regains a soft mounding texture. Ça se rattrape. Keep it cold, but do not let it set before the shells are filled.

   Paprika must announce itself in the colour without taking over the flavour. Mix it first with a little mousse rather than shaking it across the whole bowl, which leaves rust-coloured freckles.
4. 4

   Build the aspic glaze

   Arrange the chilled tail collops and dried oysters on a cold parchment-lined tray. The aspic should be fluid but cold, with the texture of light oil. Spoon a thin coat over every piece and refrigerate for 4 to 5 minutes, then repeat until each collop and oyster has a smooth, complete covering, usually 3 coats. Lay one truffle slice on every collop and seal it beneath a final coat of aspic. If the jelly runs straight off, either the food is wet or the aspic is too warm; blot and rechill both before trying again. If the aspic becomes ropey or lumpy, stand its bowl briefly in lukewarm water and stir until it flows. Never pour a thick coat at once, because it traps bubbles and slides away in sheets.

5. 5

   Fill the half-shells

   Divide the paprika-tinted Mousse de Homard (No. 956) between the two chilled half-carapaces, pressing it gently into the head and tail cavities without knocking out its air. Level each surface precisely to the shell's edge with the back of a cold spoon. This is the home equivalent of setting the shells in a garde-manger's bed of crushed ice: return the supported tray to the refrigerator and chill until the mousse is firm enough to hold the glazed garnish without sinking, 1½ to 2 hours. If a fingertip leaves a deep mark, give it another 20 minutes.

6. 6

   Crown and serve

   Line a chilled oval platter with a plain folded napkin and set the two filled half-shells back to back. Arrange 4 glazed collops and 4 oysters over each shell, alternating them so every oyster sits between lobster collops and every truffle slice remains visible. Set the lettuce heart upright between the shells and place one modest bunch of curled-leaf parsley at each end. Bring the mayonnaise separately in a cold sauceboat. Serve at once while the aspic is clear, the mousse is firm, and the platter is properly cold. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Ask for one large lobster rather than two small ones. The broad tail gives regular collops, and the two half-carapaces are large enough to hold the mousse and its full garnish without looking crowded.
• •The lobster cooking belongs to Mousse de Homard (No. 956), so follow that formula before beginning this assembly. Cooling the lobster in its liquor keeps the meat succulent and gives the mousse a fuller foundation.
• •Use clear fish aspic, never meat jelly. It should taste gently saline and clean enough to flatter lobster and oysters; homemade fish stock set with unflavoured gelatin is the honest home answer when a pot of fish jelly is not already waiting.
• •A good preserved black truffle is preferable to a tired fresh one. Drain and blot it thoroughly before it meets the aspic, because preserving liquid prevents the final sealing coat from taking cleanly.
• •Keep the mousse, shellfish, and platter at or below 40°F (4°C). This is a cold preparation rich in cooked shellfish and cream, so return each element to the refrigerator whenever your hands are occupied elsewhere.
• •Serve with a dry Champagne or a mineral Chablis. The wine needs enough freshness for the mayonnaise and mousse, but no loud perfume to push past the oysters.

Advance Preparation

• •Prepare the clear fish aspic and mayonnaise up to 1 day ahead and keep both covered in the refrigerator. Melt only the aspic you need, then cool it until fluid before glazing.
• •The lobster can be cooked and cooled in its liquor through Mousse de Homard (No. 956) the day before. Keep it whole and well chilled, then split it and complete the mousse on the day of service.
• •The filled shells, glazed collops, and glazed oysters can be prepared 4 to 6 hours before serving. Keep them separately covered and cold, then assemble the crown shortly before the platter goes to the table.
• •Add the lettuce heart and curled-leaf parsley only at serving time. They wilt against cold aspic if left for hours, and the contrast should be crisp and fresh.
• •Refrigerate any leftovers promptly and eat them within 24 hours. The aspic may remain sound longer, but the oysters and cream set the honest limit.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 370g)