Dorado

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Charcoal or gas grill with two heat zones, or a large cast-iron grill pan
• •Two wide metal fish spatulas or one hinged fish basket
• •Long grill tongs
• •Instant-read thermometer

Instructions

1. 1

   Build a two-zone fire

   Heat a charcoal or gas grill to 450 to 500°F (230 to 260°C), keeping one section cooler so you have somewhere to move the fish if the dripping oil wakes the flames. Scrub the grate thoroughly. Dip a folded paper towel in 2 teaspoons of the olive oil and, holding it with long tongs, wipe the hot grate several times. Never spray oil toward a lit grill. Indoors, heat a large cast-iron grill pan over medium-high heat and cook one fish at a time.

2. 2

   Dry and score

   Wipe the fish inside and out rather than rinsing them, then dry every surface thoroughly with paper towels. Cut three diagonal slashes into each side, about ¼ inch (6 mm) deep and spaced 1½ inches (4 cm) apart. Cut through the skin and just into the flesh, stopping well before the backbone. Scoring lets the thickest part cook with the thinner tail and gives the olive oil somewhere to settle.

3. 3

   Oil and season

   Season the cavities, both sides, and the slashes with the salt and pepper. Brush the fish with ¼ cup (60 ml) of the olive oil, working it into every cut. Oil is not decoration here; it carries the heat across the skin and helps the surface blister rather than scorch dry. Keep the lemon off until the end, because acid on raw fish dampens the surface and works against clean browning.

4. 4

   Grill the first side

   Lay the fish over direct heat with their heads toward the hotter part and tails toward the cooler edge. Close the lid and leave them untouched for 6 to 8 minutes, until the skin is bronzed, the scored edges have charred, and a thin spatula slips beneath without pulling. If dripping oil causes a flare, move the fish to the cooler zone until the flame settles, then return them to the heat. Don't douse the fire with water.

5. 5

   Turn and finish

   Place one wide spatula beneath the shoulders and a second beneath the tail, then roll each fish gently onto its other side. If the skin resists, wait another 30 to 60 seconds; the browned surface will release when it is ready. If a patch tears, ça se rattrape: slide the spatula beneath the torn skin, complete the turn, and serve that side against the platter. Grill for another 5 to 7 minutes, until the flesh beside the backbone is opaque and pearly and the thickest part reaches 145°F (63°C).

6. 6

   Rest and serve

   Transfer the daurade to a warm platter and rest them for 3 minutes. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and squeeze four lemon wedges over the scored skin. To serve, run a spoon along the backbone, lift away the upper fillets, remove the backbone in one piece, then portion the lower fillets. Watch for the small pin bones near the head and serve the remaining lemon alongside. One fish feeds two generously. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Ask for daurade royale or gilthead sea bream, not mahi-mahi. Choose fish with bright convex eyes, red gills, firm flesh, and skin that still shines. Two fish of equal size will finish together.
• •Charcoal gives the deepest blistering, but a clean gas grill does the job honestly. If turning whole fish makes you nervous, use a well-oiled hinged fish basket; it replaces extra hands without changing the direct contact with the fire.
• •Don't wrap the fish in foil. Foil is useful for gentle cooking, but here it blocks the flame and traps moisture against the skin. The blistered surface is the dish, not a flourish.
• •Pour a dry southern white with enough freshness for the olive oil and char, such as Picpoul de Pinet from Languedoc or a white Cassis from Provence.
• •Daurade is best the moment it leaves the grill. Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours and use them within 1 day, flaked cold with lemon rather than reheated until dry.

Advance Preparation

• •Have the fishmonger scale, gut, and trim the fish up to 1 day ahead. Set them uncovered on a rack over a tray in the cold for 4 to 8 hours; the dry skin browns and releases more readily.
• •Cut the lemons and measure the seasoning up to 4 hours ahead. Score, salt, and oil the fish only as the grill heats so the surface stays dry and firm.
• •Light the grill about 25 minutes before serving if using charcoal, or 10 to 15 minutes ahead for gas. The fish itself should be grilled at the last moment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 175g)