Consommé à l’Essence de Céleri

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •7 to 8 quart (6.6 to 7.6 L) heavy stockpot
• •2 quart (1.9 L) saucepan with lid
• •Large fine-mesh sieve
• •Muslin or lint-free cotton cloth
• •Whisk and ladle
• •Instant-read thermometer, optional

Instructions

1. 1

   Judge the celery

   Snap a celery leaf and smell it, then taste a thin piece of stalk. Dark leaves, a strong herbal scent, and a faint bitterness mean you should begin with 4 ribs, about 250 g. Pale, watery celery may require all 8 ribs, about 500 g. Keep the leaves, wash away every trace of grit, and slice the ribs thinly. This judgment is the recipe, not an inconvenience.

   Use the dark outer ribs rather than the tender heart. The heart is lovely at the table but usually too mild to perfume a full pot of consommé.
2. 2

   Build the clarification

   Put the chilled ground beef and 6 egg whites into a heavy stockpot and mix them thoroughly. Add the onions, carrots, tomato paste, bouquet garni, and peppercorns, then pour in the cold stock and whisk until everything is evenly dispersed. The cold start matters: as the proteins warm slowly, they gather the particles that would otherwise cloud the broth.

3. 3

   Form the raft

   Set the pot over medium-low heat and stir continuously, scraping the floor, until the mixture reaches about 50 to 55°C (122 to 131°F) and begins to coagulate, 15 to 20 minutes. Stop stirring. As the clarification raft rises, open a small chimney in its center with the handle of a spoon and bring the liquid beneath to the barest tremble, about 85 to 90°C (185 to 194°F). Never let it boil. If it does and the raft fractures, remove the pot from the heat immediately and let it settle for 5 minutes before continuing gently. If the strained broth remains cloudy, chill it completely, whisk in the 2 optional egg whites, and repeat this step without the beef or vegetables. Ça se rattrape.

   Once the raft forms, leave it alone. Stirring now tears the filter you have spent twenty minutes building.
4. 4

   Clarify at a tremble

   Hold the consommé at that barely perceptible tremble for 45 minutes. Every 10 minutes, draw a ladleful of broth through the chimney and pour it gently over the raft so the surface stays moist. The raft filters while the lean beef strengthens the fond beneath it. This quiet clarification is the dish and cannot be hurried.

5. 5

   Strain without pressing

   Line a large fine-mesh sieve with damp muslin or lint-free cotton and set it over a clean pot. Ladle the consommé carefully from the side of the raft through the cloth. Do not pour the pot and never press the solids, which forces cloudiness back into the broth. Discard the raft, then remove any remaining surface fat by drawing a clean paper towel lightly across the top. You should have 8 to 9 cups of clear amber consommé.

6. 6

   Infuse the essence

   Reserve 1 cup of plain consommé for correcting the final seasoning. Put 2 cups of the remaining consommé and the first 4 sliced celery ribs with their leaves into a clean covered saucepan. Warm gently to 80 to 85°C (176 to 185°F), hold it there for 20 minutes, then strain through fresh damp cloth without pressing. Taste the essence hot. If the celery still whispers, infuse the same liquid with the remaining ribs for another 10 to 15 minutes. Do not compensate by boiling it down, which concentrates bitterness along with aroma.

7. 7

   Season by judgment

   Warm the remaining plain consommé just below a simmer. Add the celery essence ¼ cup at a time, tasting after every addition. Stop when celery is unmistakable in the aroma and first sip, while the meat stock still carries the finish. If the celery takes over, stir in the reserved plain consommé until balance returns. Season with salt only now, pass the finished broth once more through a clean fine sieve, and ladle it into warmed consommé cups. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Celery strength lives chiefly in the dark outer ribs and leaves. A bunch with a strong scent may need only half the stated quantity; pale hearts can consume the whole allowance and still taste timid. Smell and taste before you commit.
• •A homemade, well-defatted stock gives the finest body, but a good unsalted or very low-sodium stock can be clarified successfully. The lean beef repairs some of its missing depth. Avoid heavily seasoned stock, because reduction and clarification concentrate salt.
• •Dampen the straining cloth before using it so it does not drink up the consommé. Ladle patiently and never squeeze the raft or celery; pressure buys a few extra spoonfuls at the cost of clarity.
• •Serve the consommé very hot in warmed cups, but do not boil it after adding the essence. A hard boil drives away the fresh celery aroma you worked to capture.

Advance Preparation

• •Clarify the consommé up to 3 days ahead. Cool it rapidly in shallow containers or over an ice bath, then refrigerate at 4°C (40°F) or colder with one cup kept separately for correcting the celery.
• •Prepare the celery essence up to 6 hours before serving and refrigerate it separately. Add it while reheating so its aroma remains fresh and under your control.
• •The plain clarified consommé can be frozen for up to 2 months. Thaw it gently, bring it just below a simmer, and make the celery essence on the day it will be served.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 240g)