The Cooking of Soft-boiled Eggs

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •6-quart (5.7-liter) deep saucepan or stockpot
• •8-inch (20-centimeter) heatproof colander perforated with large holes
• •2-quart (1.9-liter) wide bowl
• •2-quart (1.9-liter) saucepan or heatproof bowl for holding water
• •Slotted spoon
• •Kitchen timer
• •Instant-read thermometer

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the water

   Bring the 4 quarts of water to a full rolling boil in a deep pot. Put the cold water in a wide bowl beside the stove. Dissolve the salt in the remaining quart of water and warm it to 140 to 150°F (60 to 66°C), then cover it and take it off the heat. This moderately salted water is for holding, not cooking; if the eggs will go straight to the table, you may omit the hold because it is brigade service scaffolding.

2. 2

   Lower one batch

   Arrange the eggs in a single layer in the large-holed metal colander. Lower the whole colander gently into the boiling water so every egg is submerged, keeping the heat high. The boil will falter. Wait until it returns to a full rolling boil, then start a timer for exactly six minutes. This is the principle inside the method: count from the return to the boil, not from the plunge.

   A broad pot and abundant water bring the boil back quickly. If the colander wedges against the pot or blocks circulation, test a different basket before cooking the eggs.
3. 3

   Cool for a moment

   When the six minutes are complete, lift out the colander and let it drain for a few seconds. Lower the eggs into the bowl of cold water for 45 seconds, no longer. This brief cooling makes the shells safe to handle and checks the cooking at the surface without chilling the flowing yolks.

4. 4

   Shell with care

   Working with one egg at a time, tap the shell lightly all over and begin peeling at the broad end, where the air pocket gives you an opening. Ease a fingertip or the bowl of a teaspoon beneath the membrane and let the shell come away in small pieces. If the white begins tearing, stop. Ça se rattrape: return the egg to the cold water for 20 seconds, find the membrane again, and peel beneath the water instead of pulling against the white. A small nick is no disaster.

5. 5

   Hold and serve

   Transfer each shelled egg to the moderately salted hot water as soon as it is peeled. Keep the water between 140 and 150°F (60 and 66°C) and hold the eggs for no more than 10 minutes; hotter water continues cooking the yolks, so temper it with a little cold water if necessary. Lift the eggs out with a slotted spoon, blot briefly, and serve two per person. The whites should be set and tender, the yolks thickly flowing. À table!

Chef Tips

• •The source is firm about very fresh eggs because their whites sit compactly around the yolk and cook into a neat oval. Fresh eggs can be more stubborn to shell, so patience matters more than force.
• •Use eggs of one size and one starting temperature. A mixture of refrigerator-cold and warmer eggs defeats the colander’s purpose because they cannot reach the same doneness together.
• •Freshness governs texture, not microbiological safety. For anyone advised to avoid undercooked egg yolks, use pasteurized shell eggs or cook the eggs until the yolks are firm.
• •The salted holding bath is useful when four plates must meet the table together, but it is not storage. If eggs remain, chill them promptly, cover, and refrigerate for no more than two days; reheating will firm the yolks further.

Advance Preparation

• •Up to 30 minutes ahead, fit the empty colander inside the pot and confirm that it lowers and lifts without catching. Set out eggs of one size together so they share the same starting temperature.
• •The cold-water bowl and salted holding water can be prepared while the cooking water heats. Cook the eggs at the last moment and keep the warm hold under 10 minutes, because the centre continues to firm.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 100g)