Pommes Nana (for Garnishing)

Pommes Nana (butter-browned moulds of potato matchsticks) teaches the binding power of the potato itself. The one true thing to know before touching the pan is that the fresh-cut julienne must not be rinsed: its surface starch is the mortar that lets loose matchsticks become a crisp little tower. Wash it away and no quantity of hopeful pressing will replace it.

The book's kitchen assumed rows of dariole moulds, a tray of very hot fat, and a saucier holding Château sauce ready for service. At home, four small metal moulds sit in a snug roasting pan with measured clarified butter, while a small portion of finished Château sauce warms at the end. Clarified butter is the honest equivalent for the unspecified hot fat because it gives the required butter flavour without scorching. The bank of moulds is brigade scaffolding; the well-buttered metal, fierce fat, and final sauce are the dish. No stockpot or salamander has a job here. One cook, one stove, one evening.

When Pommes Nana is right, each mould turns out as a butter-gold lattice, bronzed at its edges, tender within, and just glossed with Château sauce. Before the knife comes down, keep the deciding step clear: once the julienne is cut, don't rinse it. That starch is what makes the form hold.