Chef Juliette
Stuffed Onions
Oignons farcis teach the discipline of the shell: mild onions hollowed without weakness, filled with their own flesh and Duxelle, braised in butter and stock, then glazed until the tops bronze.
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Pommes de Terre Pont-Neuf
Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2220, Pommes de Terre Pont-Neuf, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Pommes de terre Pont-Neuf prove that cut size is technique: stout half-inch rods meet one steady bath of fat and emerge crisp at the corners, tender and creamy through the middle.
Side Dishes
French
Weeknight
Comfort Food
25 min
Active Time
25 min cook•50 min total
Yield4 servings
Pommes de terre Pont-Neuf (half-inch fried potato rods) teach the first law of fried potatoes: the cut is the cooking time. Make every rod the same stout size and the surface can turn crisp while the center remains creamy. Thin ends and thick middles cannot finish together, however grand the pot.
The classical entry assumed a deep professional fryer held at steady heat and a commis trimming potatoes for a whole service. Here, 1 3/4 pounds of potatoes go into a heavy home pot in two modest batches, with a thermometer doing the watching. The vast vat and brigade quantity were scaffolding, so they go. The square cut and single uninterrupted fry are the dish, so they stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
When Pont-Neuf are right, the corners are deep gold and rigid, while a broken rod shows a soft ivory center with no chalkiness. Measure the first few cuts and dry them completely before they meet the fat. That careful half-inch rod is the one step that decides everything.
Pommes de terre Pont-Neuf belong to Paris and take their name from the Pont Neuf, whose busy approaches became known for street sellers and public eating. In classical French nomenclature, Pont-Neuf names a precise cut: stout squared rods, larger than allumettes or pailles, with enough interior to remain creamy. The preparation became the generic model of pommes frites, with the thinner cuts understood as branches of the same family.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
russet potatoes
Quantity
4 medium-large (about 1 3/4 lb / 800 g)
peeled
refined peanut oil or other neutral high-heat frying oil
Quantity
2 qt (1.9 L / about 1.75 kg)
for deep-frying
fine sea salt
Quantity
1 tsp (5 ml / 6 g), plus more to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| russet potatoespeeled | 4 medium-large (about 1 3/4 lb / 800 g) |
| refined peanut oil or other neutral high-heat frying oilfor deep-frying | 2 qt (1.9 L / about 1.75 kg) |
| fine sea salt | 1 tsp (5 ml / 6 g), plus more to taste |
Equipment Needed
- •Heavy 5-to-6-quart (4.7-to-5.7 L) pot with fitted lid
- •Clip-on deep-fry thermometer
- •Wire skimmer or spider
- •Wire rack set over a rimmed sheet pan
- •Sharp chef's knife and ruler
Instructions
- 1
Square the potatoes
Trim the curved sides from each peeled potato to make a long rectangular block, saving every trimming for soup or purée. Cut the blocks lengthwise into 1/2-inch (1.25 cm) slabs, then cut those slabs into square rods of the same width, ideally 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches (6 to 9 cm) long. Measure the first few. Uniformity is not fuss here; it makes the crisp exterior and creamy center arrive together.
A ruler beside the board settles the first cuts quickly. Once your hand understands the width, put the ruler away and finish by eye. - 2
Rinse and dry
Rinse the rods in two or three changes of cold water, moving them gently with your hand, until the water loses most of its cloudy surface starch. Drain well, spread them between clean towels, and dry every side thoroughly. Water makes hot fat spit, and a damp potato delays the crust you are trying to build.
- 3
Ready the frying fat
Set a wire rack over a sheet pan and warm the oven to 200°F (95°C). Pour the oil into a heavy 5-to-6-quart (4.7-to-5.7 L) pot, leaving the vessel no more than half full, and heat it over medium heat to 350°F (175°C). Keep a fitted lid nearby and never leave the pot unattended. If frying fat ignites, turn off the heat and cover the pot; water never goes near it.
- 4
Fry without interruption
Divide the potatoes into two equal batches. Lower the first batch gently into the fat with a wire skimmer, then adjust the heat so the temperature settles between 325 and 340°F (165 and 170°C). Fry without interruption for 8 to 11 minutes, stirring carefully to prevent sticking, until the rods are evenly deep gold and their corners feel firm. Break open a thick one: the center should be creamy and tender, with no hard white core. If they color too fast while the centers remain firm, lower the heat and continue gently. If a batch turns pale and limp because the temperature collapsed, ça se rattrape: drain it, let the oil return to 350°F (175°C), then return the rods for 60 to 90 seconds to restore the crust.
- 5
Drain and season
Lift the finished Pont-Neuf with the skimmer and let the excess fat fall back into the pot for several seconds. Spread them in one layer on the rack, season at once with half the salt, and hold them in the low oven while the fat returns to 350°F (175°C). Fry the second batch in the same manner. Do not cover or heap the potatoes, since trapped moisture softens the crust. Combine the batches, taste for salt, and bring them straight to the table. À table!
Chef Tips
- •Choose a long, floury potato such as a russet. Its dry starch cooks into the creamy center Pont-Neuf require; a waxy potato stays firm and slightly glassy inside.
- •The square trimming is part of the technique, not permission to waste food. Keep the offcuts submerged in cold water, then use them in a potage, mash, or omelette.
- •A thermometer earns its place here. The fat must be hot enough to set the crust but calm enough to cook the thick center before the outside darkens.
- •Rendered beef fat may replace the neutral oil for a fuller savory flavor, since the source calls simply for hot fat. Use clean, well-strained fat with a high smoke point and keep the same temperatures.
- •Pont-Neuf wait for nobody. Salt them as they leave the fat, hold the first batch only while the second cooks, and serve before the crust begins to soften.
Advance Preparation
- •The potatoes may be squared and cut up to 4 hours ahead. Keep the rods fully submerged in cold water in the refrigerator, then drain and dry them with particular care before frying.
- •The potato trimmings may be held in cold water for up to 1 day in the refrigerator and used for soup, purée, or another potato preparation.
- •Let used frying oil cool completely, strain it through a fine sieve into a clean container, and store it in a cool dark place. Discard it if it smells stale, looks unusually dark, or foams excessively when reheated.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 110g)
Calories
300 calories
Total Fat
16 g
Saturated Fat
3 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
13 g
Cholesterol
0 mg
Sodium
600 mg
Total Carbohydrates
35 g
Dietary Fiber
4 g
Sugars
2 g
Protein
4 g
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