Scotch Kale, Spring Cabbage, Broccoli Leaves, Turnip-tops

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •6- to 8-quart (5.7 to 7.6 L) pot and large colander, for à l’anglaise
• •12-inch (30 cm) lidded sauté pan, for au beurre
• •Salad spinner or clean kitchen towels

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the Greens

   Discard yellow or damaged leaves. Pull the tough central ribs from Scotch kale and broccoli leaves, trim coarse stalks from turnip-tops, and remove the hard core from spring cabbage. Cut broad leaves into 1½-inch (4 cm) ribbons, leaving small tender leaves whole. Wash them in two changes of cold water until no grit remains, then drain. Keep the leaves slightly damp for au beurre, but do not leave water pooled among them.

   The original entry groups these greens because they accept the same two treatments, not because they must share one pan. One kind gives the most even result. If you combine them, begin the sturdy kale before adding tender spring cabbage or turnip-tops.
2. 2

   Choose the Treatment

   Choose one method. For à l’anglaise, follow steps 3 and 4, then go directly to step 7. For au beurre, skip to steps 5 and 6 before serving. Do not boil the greens fully and then stew them again; that muddles the two preparations and softens the leaves past their proper point.

3. 3

   Boil à l’Anglaise

   Bring the water to a strong rolling boil in a large pot and add the salt. Drop in the greens, pressing them under only until they wilt, then cook uncovered. Allow 3 to 5 minutes for spring cabbage, 4 to 6 minutes for turnip-tops, 5 to 7 minutes for broccoli leaves, or 7 to 10 minutes for Scotch kale. The thickest vein should yield cleanly between your fingers while the leaf still holds its shape. If the water does not return to the boil within a minute, the pot is crowded. Lift out half and cook in two batches. Ça se rattrape.

4. 4

   Drain Without Rinsing

   Drain the greens the instant they are tender and shake the colander firmly. Do not rinse them, because cold water steals the heat and leaves more moisture to remove. Return them to the empty hot pot for 20 seconds, turning once, just long enough to dry the surface. If they have gone soft and watery, spread them in a wide dry skillet and turn over medium heat until the excess water leaves; they will not regain their bite, but they can still become a generous au beurre serving.

5. 5

   Stew au Beurre

   Melt 4 tablespoons (60 ml / 56 g) of the butter in a wide lidded sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the damp greens and salt, turning until every leaf wears a fine coat of butter. Add 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g) hot water for tender spring cabbage or turnip-tops, or ¼ cup (60 ml / 60 g) for sturdier broccoli leaves or Scotch kale. Cover and cook gently, turning twice, until tender: about 5 to 8 minutes for spring cabbage, 6 to 10 minutes for turnip-tops, 8 to 12 minutes for broccoli leaves, or 12 to 18 minutes for Scotch kale. If the pan catches before the leaves soften, lower the heat and add hot water a tablespoon at a time. Ça se rattrape.

6. 6

   Finish to a Gloss

   Uncover the pan and raise the heat to medium. Turn the greens until the remaining water has evaporated and the pan sounds of a gentle sizzle rather than a slosh. If the leaves are tender but swimming, lift them out, reduce the liquid to a spoonful, then return them. Take the pan off the heat and toss in the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) butter. If the butter sits as an oily pool, add 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) hot water and toss firmly off the heat; the butter and vegetable juices will come back into a light emulsion.

7. 7

   Serve at Once

   For à l’anglaise, tip the hot, thoroughly drained greens into a warmed shallow serving bowl with no further dressing. For au beurre, transfer the glossy greens with every drop of their butter. Both preparations suffer from waiting, so bring them straight to the table. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Buy crisp leaves with firm ribs and lively colour. A mature leaf is not inferior, but it wants the longer au beurre treatment; tired, yellowing greens will not recover in either pot.
• •Use one kind of green for the neatest result. If the market has handed you several, cook sturdy kale first and add tender cabbage or turnip-tops later so everything reaches the same tenderness.
• •The generous salt belongs to the boiling water, and most of it goes down the drain. It seasons the leaves quickly without requiring a sauce afterward.
• •The source is firm about its two treatments, and it is right. No garlic, lemon, cream, or ornamental herbs. For au beurre, use real butter. We don't apologize for butter.

Advance Preparation

• •The greens may be trimmed and washed one day ahead. Dry them well, wrap loosely in a clean towel, and keep them cold; leave a few droplets on the leaves only when you begin the au beurre method.
• •Neither finished version improves by waiting. Prepare the leaves ahead, but cook them as the rest of supper reaches the table.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 160g)