Cabbages for Garnish.—A

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large stockpot
• •10-inch (25 cm) lidded sautépan or shallow casserole
• •Clean kitchen towel
• •Tongs
• •Baking parchment

Instructions

1. 1

   Parboil the cabbage

   Heat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Cut a cone around the cabbage core without separating the head. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add 1 tablespoon (18 g) of the salt. Lower in the cabbage. As its outer leaves soften, loosen them one at a time with tongs until you have 8 broad, intact leaves, about 3 to 5 minutes. If the leaves are small, take 16 and use two for each ball, exactly as the source directs. Continue parboiling the remaining cabbage for 5 minutes, then transfer everything to cold water. The leaves should bend without cracking but still possess enough strength to hold the filling.

2. 2

   Drain it thoroughly

   Spread the whole leaves on clean towels and shave down each thick central rib without cutting through the leaf. Drain the remaining cabbage, remove its hard core, and chop the tender portion finely. Gather the chopped cabbage in a clean kitchen towel and twist firmly until no more water runs out. Season it evenly with the remaining 1 teaspoon (6 g) salt and the pepper. This dryness is the principle of the dish: wet filling produces loose parcels and a thin braise.

   If the chopped cabbage still glistens or releases water when pressed, spread it in a dry skillet over medium-low heat for 3 to 5 minutes, turning until the moisture has evaporated. Cool it before wrapping. Ça se rattrape.
3. 3

   Lay the braising bed

   Rub a lidded 10-inch (25 cm) sautépan or shallow casserole with 1 tablespoon (14 g) of the butter. Scatter the onion and carrot across the bottom, lay the bacon strips over them, and tuck in the bouquet garni. This small aromatic bed replaces the brigade pan that the original entry assumed was already waiting; it protects the cabbage from direct heat while seasoning the stock beneath it.

4. 4

   Shape the parcels

   Lay a cabbage leaf concave side up and place about 1/3 cup (80 ml / 65 g) chopped cabbage near its centre. Fold the rib end over the filling, bring in both sides, and roll the leaf around itself. Cup it between your hands to form a compact ball about 2 1/2 inches (6 cm) wide. Repeat to make 8. Arrange each ball seam-side down in the prepared pan, packing them snugly enough that they touch and support one another.

   If a leaf splits, don't discard the parcel. Wrap a second leaf around it and place that repaired seam underneath. If the pan leaves too much open space, use a smaller pan; close packing is part of the technique, not presentation.
5. 5

   Braise them gently

   Pour the stock down the side of the pan so it reaches roughly halfway up the cabbage balls without washing over their folds. Bring it just to a bare simmer on the stovetop. Cover the cabbage directly with a round of baking parchment, put on the lid, and transfer the pan to the oven. Complete the cooking by the gentle method named Braised Cabbage in the source, braising for 50 to 60 minutes, until a thin knife passes through a parcel without resistance. The liquid should barely tremble. If it boils hard or falls below one-quarter of the parcels, lower the oven by 25°F (15°C) and add a little hot stock.

6. 6

   Reduce and glaze

   Lift the cabbage balls and bacon onto a warm plate, keeping the parcels seam-side down, and discard the bouquet garni. Boil the braising liquid and softened vegetables until reduced to about 1/2 cup (120 ml) and lightly thickened, 6 to 10 minutes. If it becomes too salty before it coats a spoon, stop reducing and loosen it with a tablespoon of hot water. Return the cabbage and bacon for 2 minutes, then take the pan off the heat and swirl in the remaining 1 tablespoon (14 g) butter. Spoon the glossy juices and vegetables over the parcels and serve two per person. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose a dense green cabbage with broad, unblemished outer leaves. A very young loose head may taste sweet, but its small leaves make poor wrappers; here, sound structure matters more than delicacy.
• •Use a 10-inch (25 cm) pan in which all eight parcels fit closely. A broad roasting pan leaves them unsupported, and no amount of careful folding will compensate once the stock begins moving around them.
• •Good unsalted chicken stock is the home equivalent of the classical stockpot. Low-sodium packaged stock is acceptable if it tastes clean; reduce it before adding salt elsewhere, because the bacon and final reduction both concentrate seasoning.
• •Serve these beside roast pork, duck, beef, or a plain braised shoulder. Let the wine follow the main dish. The cabbage is there to catch its juices and bring its own buttery glaze to the plate.

Advance Preparation

• •The cabbage can be parboiled, drained, and refrigerated up to 24 hours ahead. Keep the whole leaves flat between clean towels and the chopped cabbage in a separate covered container.
• •The parcels can be shaped and packed into the prepared pan several hours before cooking. Cover and refrigerate them, then add the stock only when you are ready to braise.
• •The finished dish can be cooled and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Reheat it covered at 325°F (165°C) with 1/4 cup (60 ml / 60 g) additional stock for about 20 minutes, then reduce and butter the juices just before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (2 cabbage balls, about 250g)