Brionne (Chow-chow)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •3-quart saucepan
• •12-inch heavy skillet
• •Colander
• •Clean kitchen towel

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the brionne

   Halve each brionne lengthwise, remove the pale central seed, and peel away the skin. Slice the flesh into even ¼-inch (6 mm) half-moons. Equal thickness matters more than speed: thin scraps collapse before thick pieces become tender. Chayote can leave a tacky sap on the hands, so peel it under cool running water or wear kitchen gloves, then rinse the slices.

2. 2

   Blanch until tender

   Bring the water and 1½ teaspoons of the salt to a full boil in a saucepan. Add the brionne, return the water to a gentle boil, and cook for 6 to 9 minutes, until the edges turn translucent and a knife enters the thickest slice with slight resistance. Do not cook until soft; the skillet must finish the work. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the cooking water, then drain.

3. 3

   Dry it thoroughly

   Spread the drained brionne in one layer over a clean kitchen towel. Blot the tops and leave the slices uncovered for 5 minutes, turning them once, until no droplets remain. This is the step that decides the dish. Moisture left on the surface cools the skillet and makes the vegetable simmer in its own water instead of taking color.

4. 4

   Sauté in batches

   Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a wide heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When the foam subsides, add half the brionne in one uncrowded layer. Leave it untouched for about 2 minutes, then turn and cook until lightly golden at several edges, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer it to a warm plate and repeat with another tablespoon of butter and the remaining slices. If the vegetable releases water, lift it from the skillet and boil the liquid away completely before returning it with a small piece of the reserved butter. Ça se rattrape.

5. 5

   Montez au beurre

   Return all the brionne to the skillet and lower the heat. Add the remaining butter, lemon juice, white pepper, and the remaining salt to taste. Toss and shake the pan for 1 minute, until the butter and lemon form a thin glaze that clings to every slice. If the butter looks greasy instead of coating the vegetable, add the reserved cooking water 1 teaspoon at a time while tossing. A controlled drop of water binds the glaze after the browning is finished.

6. 6

   Finish and serve

   Take the skillet off the heat, scatter in the parsley, and turn the slices once more. Taste for salt and lemon. Serve at once while the brionne is tender, glossy, and still distinct at the edges. Cooking well is not cooking fancy. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose firm, heavy chayotes with taut pale-green skin. Deep wrinkles and a swollen seed indicate an older vegetable with more fibrous flesh, better suited to a gratin or purée than this quick finish.
• •The seed is tender and edible, but removing it gives the slices an even shape and follows the vegetable-marrow treatment used here. Save it for the cook's bite.
• •Use real butter. The first two spoonfuls carry the browning, and the last creates the glaze; a watery fat substitute cannot do either job properly.
• •Serve this beside roast chicken, pork chops, or a plain omelette. A dry, light white wine suits its mild sweetness, though on a weeknight a carafe of cold water and good bread are quite enough.

Advance Preparation

• •The brionne can be peeled and sliced up to 4 hours ahead. Keep it covered in the refrigerator, then rinse and drain before blanching.
• •If timing demands it, blanch the slices up to 4 hours ahead, dry them thoroughly, and chill them in one layer before covering. Blot them again before sautéing, because condensation will undo the careful drying.
• •Leftovers keep for 2 days in the refrigerator. Reheat them briefly in a wide skillet with a small piece of butter; a microwave softens the slices and dulls the glaze.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 175g)