Partridges

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Small roasting pan, approximately 9 by 13 inches (23 by 33 cm)
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Kitchen twine
• •Poultry shears or a heavy chef's knife
• •Small whisk

Instructions

1. 1

   Confirm the birds

   Use young partridges with plump breasts, smooth legs, and a breastbone that still has a little flexibility. If the birds are wild, run your fingertips carefully over the flesh and remove any remaining shot or feather stubs with tweezers. Pat them thoroughly dry inside and out. Moisture prevents browning, and these small birds have no cooking time to waste.

   If the breastbone and legs feel hard and rigid, change the plan. That bird wants perdrix en cocotte, slow cooking in a covered pot, rather than this short roast.
2. 2

   Heat and season

   Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C) with a rack in the center. Season each cavity and the outside of each bird with the salt and pepper. Put 1 tablespoon of softened butter inside each cavity, pressing it against the breast side so it melts through the leanest meat as the birds roast.

3. 3

   Apply the barde

   Lay 4 slices of fatback across the breast of each bird, overlapping them into a barde, the protective sheet of pork fat that shields lean game from the oven's first fierce heat. Tie each bird around the breast with kitchen twine so the barde stays flat, then brush the exposed legs and sides with the melted butter. Set the birds breast-side up in a small roasting pan, leaving room between them.

4. 4

   Roast them short

   Roast for 12 minutes, then baste the birds with the butter and rendered fat in the pan. Cut away the twine and remove the barde, rotate the pan, and roast for another 6 to 10 minutes. The skin should turn a deep butter-gold, and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part without touching bone must register 165°F (74°C). Check early because a small bird can pass from succulent to dry in minutes. If the skin colors too quickly before the meat is ready, lay the barde loosely back over the breast. Ça se rattrape.

5. 5

   Rest the roast

   Transfer the partridges to a warm platter and rest them for 10 minutes, covered only very loosely so the skin remains crisp. Do not carve immediately. The juices need this pause to settle back through the meat, and cutting too soon sends the butter and juice onto the board instead of keeping them in the bird.

6. 6

   Build the pan jus

   While the birds rest, pour off the loose fat from the roasting pan, leaving the brown roasting fond behind. Set the pan over medium-high heat, add the hot water, and scrape firmly until every caramelized speck dissolves. Reduce to about ¼ cup (60 ml), then take the pan off the heat and whisk in the 2 tablespoons of cold butter, a little at a time, until the jus turns glossy and lightly coats a spoon. Do not boil it after the butter goes in. If it separates into greasy beads, whisk in 1 teaspoon of cold water off the heat. Ça se rattrape.

7. 7

   Carve and serve

   Taste the jus and correct the salt only if needed, since the fatback may already have seasoned it. Split each partridge lengthwise into two portions with poultry shears or a heavy knife. Arrange the halves cut-side down, spoon the jus around them rather than over the crisp skin, and serve at once. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Ask specifically for young partridge, perdreau, and tell the butcher you intend to roast it. Farm-raised birds are more predictable; a mature wild bird is splendid too, but not by this method.
• •Pork fatback is the cleanest barde because it contributes fat without smoke or spice. If only unsmoked streaky bacon is available, blanch the slices for 2 minutes, dry them well, and reduce the added salt slightly.
• •Use the smallest roasting pan that holds the birds without crowding. A large pan leaves the juices spread thinly across bare metal, where they burn before you can turn them into jus.
• •Serve with a celery-root purée, buttered cabbage, or small roasted potatoes. A light red Burgundy or mature Loire Cabernet Franc has enough freshness for game without bullying these delicate birds.
• •Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours and use them within 2 days. Reheat gently under cover with a spoonful of water or jus; a second hard roast will dry the meat.

Advance Preparation

• •The birds can be seasoned, buttered, barded, and tied up to 6 hours ahead. Keep them covered in the refrigerator, then remove them 20 minutes before roasting.
• •Blanch and dry a bacon substitute earlier in the day if fatback is unavailable. Keep the slices chilled until the birds are prepared.
• •Roast the partridges only when the table is nearly ready. They cook quickly and lose their succulence if held, while the 10-minute resting time gives you enough room to finish the jus and bring the side dishes together.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 180g)