
Chef Juliette
Selle de Chevreuil et Cuissot
Selle de Chevreuil et Cuissot teaches the discipline of game: strip every tendon, skip marinade for a young, well-hung joint, roast in butter, and stop before leanness turns to dryness.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1820, Soufflé de Lièvre, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Hare becomes silk, then rises: a cold-worked mousseline folded with two egg whites, baked bronze and finished with glossy hare fumet, butter-tossed minion fillets, and black truffle.
Soufflé de lièvre (a risen hare mousse) teaches one true thing before you touch a pan: lightness begins with cold, not with the whisk. The mousseline, a smooth cream-bound forcemeat, must remain cold enough to hold its emulsion; only then can the two stiffly beaten whites lift it into something tender, savory, and remarkably light.
The grand kitchen behind the original kept a saucier beside a half-glaze, game stock never left the fire, several hands could pound and sieve at once, and a salamander waited nearby for finishing. At home, the salamander goes entirely because it is scaffolding, not the dish. A food processor replaces the pounding, a fine sieve preserves the texture, prepared real veal demi-glace and a quick Fumet from the hare bones replace the stockpots, and an ordinary oven supplies the moderate heat. The source's pound of hare is already right for four, so that ratio stays; the sauce and truffle garnish are simply brought down to one platter. One cook, one stove, one evening.
What must remain is the cold mousseline, the two whites folded without crushing them, the gentle oven poach, and the minion-fillet collops tossed in butter at the last moment. Keep the forcemeat cold before anything else. That is the step that decides the Soufflé de Lièvre.
Soufflé de lièvre belongs to the formal Parisian game table, where hare from the country shooting larder entered the grand kitchen and was refined into mousseline without surrendering its dark, distinctive flavor. Unlike a familiar cheese Soufflé, it begins with cream-bound forcemeat rather than a flour-thickened base, then gains its rise from additional egg whites. The separate minion fillets and truffle preserve the logic of the grand game service: the tender saddle meat remains distinct while hare Fumet carries the animal's deeper character into the sauce.
Quantity
1 lb (450 g)
very cold, freed of sinew and silver skin, and cut into 1-inch pieces
Quantity
5 oz (140 g)
trimmed and chilled
Quantity
1 lb (450 g)
chopped
Quantity
4 tablespoons (60 ml / 56 g)
divided
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 35 g)
thinly sliced
Quantity
2 cups (480 ml / 480 g)
Quantity
¾ cup (180 ml / 185 g)
Quantity
1 cup (240 ml / 240 g)
ice-cold
Quantity
1¼ teaspoons (6 ml / 7 g), plus more for the sauce
Quantity
½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g)
Quantity
2 (about ¼ cup / 60 ml / 60 g)
Quantity
1 oz (28 g)
thinly sliced
Quantity
2 cups (480 ml / about 300 g)
for chilling
Quantity
6 cups (1.4 L / 1.4 kg)
for the bain-marie
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| lean hare meatvery cold, freed of sinew and silver skin, and cut into 1-inch pieces | 1 lb (450 g) |
| hare minion filletstrimmed and chilled | 5 oz (140 g) |
| hare bones and meaty trimmingschopped | 1 lb (450 g) |
| unsalted butterdivided | 4 tablespoons (60 ml / 56 g) |
| shallotthinly sliced | ¼ cup (60 ml / 35 g) |
| cold water | 2 cups (480 ml / 480 g) |
| prepared veal demi-glace (half-glaze sauce) | ¾ cup (180 ml / 185 g) |
| heavy cream, at least 35 percent fatice-cold | 1 cup (240 ml / 240 g) |
| fine salt | 1¼ teaspoons (6 ml / 7 g), plus more for the sauce |
| finely ground white pepper | ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g) |
| large egg whites | 2 (about ¼ cup / 60 ml / 60 g) |
| fresh or good preserved black trufflethinly sliced | 1 oz (28 g) |
| ice cubesfor chilling | 2 cups (480 ml / about 300 g) |
| just-boiled waterfor the bain-marie | 6 cups (1.4 L / 1.4 kg) |
Put the hare meat, cream, food-processor bowl, blade, and a mixing bowl in the cold for 20 minutes. Set the mixing bowl over the ice before you begin. Mousseline is an emulsion, and temperature decides it: cold meat binds the cream into silk, while warm meat releases its fat and turns grainy. Keep the minion fillets in the cold until the soufflé is nearly cooked.
Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a small heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the hare bones and trimmings, then brown them deeply for 10 to 12 minutes, turning until the pan floor carries a dark fond. Add the shallot and cook for 2 minutes. Pour in the 2 cups of cold water, scrape up the fond, and hold at a bare simmer for 25 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing lightly, then reduce the liquid to ¾ cup. This is the Fumet, the concentrated hare essence that gives the sauce its own voice rather than merely the taste of veal.
Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C) with a rack in the lower middle. Butter a 1½-quart (1.4 L) straight-sided soufflé dish with 1 tablespoon of the butter, brushing upward along the sides. Combine the veal demi-glace with ½ cup of the hare fumet and simmer gently until the sauce coats the back of a spoon, about 8 minutes. Reserve the remaining fumet for adjustment, cover the sauce directly with a small piece of parchment, and keep it barely warm.
Reserve 2 tablespoons of the cold cream. Put the chilled hare meat, salt, and white pepper in the cold processor bowl. Process until the meat becomes fine and tacky, scraping the bowl once. With the machine pulsing, add the remaining cream in four small additions, letting each disappear before adding the next. Stop as soon as the mixture is smooth. If it turns shiny, loose, or beads fat, stop immediately. Ça se rattrape: spread it on a cold plate for 10 minutes, then process one quarter with a tablespoon of the reserved cream until tacky; add the rest back by spoonfuls and keep everything over ice.
Press the hare mousseline through a fine tamis or sturdy fine-mesh sieve into the bowl set over ice. The processor replaces the old kitchen's pounding, but the sieving stays because the smooth texture is the dish, not brigade scaffolding. In a spotless bowl, whisk the two egg whites to a stiff but glossy froth. If they look dry or grainy, whisk in a teaspoon of the reserved cream by hand. Fold one third into the mousseline to loosen it, then fold in the remainder with broad turns until no large white patches remain. Stop before the mixture loses its air.
Spoon the mousseline into the buttered dish, level it lightly, and set the dish in a deep roasting pan. Pour the just-boiled water into the pan to come halfway up the sides, keeping every drop out of the mixture. Bake this gentle oven poach without opening the door for 25 minutes, then continue until the soufflé is swollen, lightly bronzed, and reaches 160°F (71°C) at the centre, 35 to 45 minutes in all. If the top colours before the centre is ready, lay foil loosely over it once the rise has set. Lift the dish carefully from the bain-marie.
During the soufflé's final 5 minutes, cut the minion fillets across the grain into 8 collops, meaning thin medallions. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. When it foams, add the collops in one uncrowded layer and toss them just until browned and cooked through, about 60 to 90 seconds per side depending on thickness. Thin hare fillets toughen when left waiting, which is why this happens at the last moment.
Bring the demi-glace back to a bare simmer. If it has tightened, loosen it with the reserved hare fumet; if it runs thin, reduce it briefly. Take it off the heat and whisk in the final tablespoon of cold butter until the surface gleams. Set the soufflé dish on a warmed platter and coat its top lightly with the hare-fumet demi-glace, never enough to crush the rise. Arrange the minion-fillet collops around the dish, alternating them with the truffle slices, and spoon a little sauce over the collops. Carry it straight to the table. À table!
1 serving (about 270g)
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