
Chef Juliette
Oison à l’Allemande
A small gosling, its breast boned and filled with buttered apples, braised under a faithful baste, then ringed with ruby-filled apples and served with a glossy roast gravy.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1735, Aspic de Foie Gras, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Foie gras, truffle, and poached egg white held inside limpid aspic, built one firm layer at a time and turned onto the dinner table with the calm confidence this dish rewards.
Aspic de foie gras (foie gras set in clear jelly) teaches the governing principle of the cold kitchen: cold is an ingredient. Each layer must become firm enough to carry the next while remaining slightly tacky enough to bind with it. Rush that setting, or pour the jelly while it is warm, and the foie gras floats, the decoration wanders, and the finished aspic slumps.
The original preparation assumed a saucier with limpid stock never off the fire, a garde-manger working over broken ice, an ornate tube mould, and several pairs of hands. The salamander has no work in this cold preparation. Your equivalent is a finished clear aspic jelly, a four-cup ring mould, crushed ice in a roasting tin, and one clear refrigerator shelf. The brigade-sized mould and elaborate repeated motifs are scaffolding and can go; clothing the mould, fixing the decoration with drops of jelly, and setting every row under its own coat are the dish itself and must stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Use the rectangles permitted by the original rather than shaping shells with a hot spoon. They make a regular pattern with less handling, an honest change of scale rather than technique. The one step that decides everything is simple: let every layer set firm before the next one touches it.
Aspic de foie gras belongs to the formal cold table of Parisian grande cuisine, though foie gras reached that table through the distinct traditions of Alsace and Périgord. Clear gelée was not merely ornament: it protected cooked foods from the air, secured truffle and egg-white decoration, and displayed the skill of the garde-manger, the cold-kitchen cook, through its clarity and exact firmness. Its passage to bourgeois dinner tables kept the mould and layered construction while reducing the parade of decoration, making the restrained home aspic entirely true to the dish.
Quantity
3 cups (720 ml / 720 g) from Aspic de Homard (No. 954)
finished, chilled, and gently remelted
Quantity
1 complete preparation, Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916)
retained whole as the source entry directs
Quantity
12 ounces (340 g)
very cold and well trimmed
Quantity
2 (¼ cup / 60 ml / 60 g)
poached, chilled, and cut into decorative shapes
Quantity
1 ounce (28 g)
fresh or preserved, drained and thinly sliced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| clear savory aspic jellyfinished, chilled, and gently remelted | 3 cups (720 ml / 720 g) from Aspic de Homard (No. 954) |
| mould-clothing and row-setting referenceretained whole as the source entry directs | 1 complete preparation, Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916) |
| fully cooked foie gras terrinevery cold and well trimmed | 12 ounces (340 g) |
| large egg whitespoached, chilled, and cut into decorative shapes | 2 (¼ cup / 60 ml / 60 g) |
| whole black trufflefresh or preserved, drained and thinly sliced | 1 ounce (28 g) |
Clear a level refrigerator shelf and chill the four-cup mould and serving platter for 30 minutes. Nest the mould upright in a roasting tin of crushed ice. Set the finished jelly component from Aspic de Homard (No. 954) over barely warm water just until it becomes liquid, then cool it to 75 to 80°F (24 to 27°C). It should pour easily without feeling warm. If it begins setting in the bowl, warm it over water for a few seconds; never boil it, because boiling weakens its structure and dulls its clarity.
Stir the egg whites only enough to loosen them, without raising bubbles, and pour them into a small heatproof dish. Set the dish in a covered saucepan of barely trembling water and poach for 8 to 10 minutes, until the whites are opaque and firm throughout. Cool, chill, and cut the smoothest portion into small diamonds, crescents, or rounds. Slice the truffle thinly and keep both decorations cold.
Use Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916) as the complete model for clothing and filling the mould. Pour about ⅓ cup (80 ml / 80 g) of the cooled jelly into the ice-cold mould, then rotate and tilt it until the bottom, central tube, and sides carry one thin, even coat. Drain the excess back into the bowl before it sets and refrigerate the mould for 8 minutes. If a bare patch appears, fix it with a teaspoonful of jelly and set it again; a patched coat disappears beneath the following layers.
Arrange the egg-white and truffle shapes against the base and lower sides of the mould, remembering that the surface touching the mould will be seen after turning out. Make the pattern regular and restrained. Fix each piece with two or three drops of jelly and chill for 5 minutes, then spoon in enough jelly to make a one-inch (2.5 cm) clear foundation. Pour against the side rather than directly onto the decoration. If a piece lifts, press it back with a cold skewer, chill briefly, and fix it again before adding more jelly.
Dip a thin knife into hot water, wipe it completely dry, and cut the cold foie gras into neat rectangles about 1½ inches long, ¾ inch wide, and ½ inch thick (4 by 2 by 1.25 cm). Clean, dry the knife, and warm it again before every cut. Keep the rectangles on a chilled plate while the jelly foundation firms. Save the trimmings for toast rather than pressing them into gaps, where they would cloud the pattern.
When the foundation is firm beneath a light fingertip, stand a close row of foie gras rectangles around the mould. Spoon in only enough cool jelly to fix their bases, then chill for 8 to 10 minutes. Add another thin coat to cover the row and chill until firm before repeating. Continue one row and one coat at a time until the mould is filled to within ½ inch (1.25 cm) of the rim. If a row shifts or floats, stop, lift the pieces back with a chilled fork, pour off the loose jelly, and chill both mould and jelly for 10 minutes before fixing the row again with teaspoonfuls. Ça se rattrape.
Cover the final row with jelly and fill the mould level with the rim. Pass a cold skewer only through the open jelly channels to release any trapped bubbles, taking care not to disturb the foie gras. Chill uncovered for 30 minutes, then cover without touching the surface and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight. The aspic is ready when its centre feels completely firm and the jelly draws very slightly from the metal.
Cover the chilled platter with a clean white napkin. Dip the mould just below its rim in very hot water for 5 seconds, dry it thoroughly, invert it over the platter, and lift with one confident motion. If it does not release, wrap the mould in a warm towel for 2 seconds and try again; prolonged heat melts the fine outer coat. If the surface begins softening, return the whole mould to the refrigerator for 20 minutes before another attempt. Slice with a hot, completely dry knife and serve at once. À table!
1 serving (about 285g)
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