
Chef Juliette
Abatis aux Navets
Glazed turnips, pearl onions, and tender poultry giblets settle into a pale, glossy sauce, with crisp-edged salt pork lending depth: a thrifty braise whose whole success rests on cooking the flour first.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1670, Mousses et Mousselines de Volaille, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
One cold forcemeat, two forms: a generous chicken mousse for the table or tender spoon-shaped mousselines for each guest, poached gently until set and still delicate.
Mousses et Mousselines de Volaille (light chicken forcemeat cooked in one shared mould or individual ovals) teach one true thing: temperature is structure. The cream-rich mixture must remain cold until the cooking liquid catches it, or its fine emulsion loosens and the finished crumb turns coarse. Keep the bowl cold. Everything follows from that.
This entry doesn't need a saucier, a stock never off the fire, or a salamander. Its brigade scaffolding was different: a mortar, a fine sieve, a bed of ice, and several hands shaping portions for service. At home, the Fine Chicken Forcemeat or “Mousseline” (No. 195) remains its own finished preparation, exactly as the book intends. We scale its service to about 500 grams, enough for one 600-millilitre mould or eight individual mousselines, and use a thermometer and an ordinary pair of tablespoons in place of extra hands. The Mousseline de Saumon (No. 797) supplies the book's model for spoon-moulding, not salmon for the poultry mixture.
The pounding, sieving, egg white, and gradual addition of thick cream belong to the referenced forcemeat and must stay there. They are the dish, not expendable ceremony. Here your work is colder and simpler: test one spoonful, shape without fuss, and poach at a tremble. If the test portion feathers apart, chill the mixture and choose the supporting mould. Ça se rattrape. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Mousses et Mousselines de Volaille belong to the Paris-centered repertoire of grande cuisine, where a fine poultry forcemeat moved between large moulds for shared service and spoon-shaped portions for individual plates. The surprising distinction is not a different mixture but a different scale: Mousses feed several people, while Mousselines are virtually special quenelles, one or two to a guest. From grand kitchens the method passed naturally to bourgeois dining rooms, where cold bowls, patient poaching, and a home mould preserve the same lightness without a brigade.
Quantity
2 cups (500 ml / about 500 g) Fine Chicken Forcemeat or “Mousseline” (No. 195)
completed according to its own entry and thoroughly chilled
Quantity
2 teaspoons (10 ml / 10 g)
softened, for the mould when making one large mousse
Quantity
8 cups (2 L / 2 kg)
for the bain-marie or poaching pan
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Fine Chicken Forcemeat or “Mousseline”completed according to its own entry and thoroughly chilled | 2 cups (500 ml / about 500 g) Fine Chicken Forcemeat or “Mousseline” (No. 195) |
| unsalted butter (optional)softened, for the mould when making one large mousse | 2 teaspoons (10 ml / 10 g) |
| waterfor the bain-marie or poaching pan | 8 cups (2 L / 2 kg) |
Begin with the finished, thoroughly chilled Fine Chicken Forcemeat or “Mousseline” (No. 195). Do not rebuild that preparation here; the source keeps it as a separate component, and so do we. For a Mousse, prepare one buttered 600-millilitre mould to serve four. For Mousselines, plan on eight ovals, two for each guest. The mixture is the same. Only the scale and shape change.
Nest the bowl of forcemeat in a larger bowl filled with ice while you prepare the mould or poaching pan. Keep the mixture at or below 4°C until cooking, and return each unused portion to the cold immediately. If its surface begins to look loose or oily, stop working it. Bury the bowl more deeply in the ice for 10 minutes, then fold gently from the edge toward the centre once it has tightened. Beating a warming emulsion only makes it warmer.
Heat the water to 80 to 85°C, when the surface barely trembles. Poach a rounded teaspoon of forcemeat for about 3 minutes, then cut it open. It should hold cleanly with a fine, moist crumb. If it feathers into the water or feels too relaxed to shape, return the bowl to the ice for 10 minutes and test again. If the second test remains delicate, choose the large mould instead of adding egg, flour, or crumbs. Ça se rattrape: the mould supplies support without changing the formula.
For a Mousse, butter the mould thoroughly, including its rim, then spoon in the cold forcemeat. Press gently to remove large air pockets without compacting the mixture, smooth the top, and cover it with buttered parchment followed by foil. For Mousselines, use the individual portioning model established by Mousseline de Saumon (No. 797): dip two ordinary tablespoons in hot water, shake them dry, and pass about 60 grams of forcemeat between them to make a smooth oval. Shape eight, working briskly and returning the bowl to the ice between portions.
For the Mousse, place the covered mould in a roasting tin and pour hot water halfway up its sides. Cook in a 160°C oven for 25 to 35 minutes. For Mousselines, slide the ovals directly into water held between 80 and 85°C and poach for 10 to 12 minutes, turning them once with a spoon. The water must never boil. If bubbles suddenly break across the surface, lower the heat and add a small splash of cold water at the edge of the pan. Catch it quickly and the texture remains tender.
The poultry is ready when its centre reaches 74°C and feels softly resilient rather than firm. Test a large Mousse through the covered top near one edge so the mark will not show after unmoulding. Lift individual Mousselines with a perforated spoon and check one from the first pair shaped. Do not leave either form sitting in hot water once cooked; lingering heat tightens the egg white and drives out the cream.
Rest the Mousse in its mould for 5 minutes, then loosen the edge with a thin knife and invert it onto a warm platter. Let individual Mousselines drain for 1 minute on a clean lint-free towel before arranging two on each warmed plate. Serve immediately, either plainly as the source gives them or with the separately prepared accompaniment already assigned to your menu. Their surface should be smooth, their centre fine and moist, and their shape generous rather than fussy. À table!
1 serving (about 120g)
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