
Chef Juliette
Filets
Filets de volaille sautés teach the discipline of even cutting and last-minute cooking: flour lightly, gild quickly in clarified butter, and serve before a tender chicken breast has time to harden.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1593, Suprêmes de Volaille Doria, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Golden suprêmes meet Doria's quiet surprise: cucumber turned like garlic cloves and cooked in butter, then a final spooning of beurre noisette and lemon. Quick work, exact heat, and no saucepot required.
Suprêmes de Volaille Doria (chicken breast fillets with buttered cucumber and nut-brown butter) teaches restraint. A suprême is the tender breast fillet of the bird, and here it must turn golden before its center dries. Doria is not a sauce. It is the cucumber garnish, trimmed into garlic-clove shapes, cooked gently in butter, and kept distinctly fresh beneath the richness.
The original entry assumed small, evenly trimmed suprêmes, clarified butter ready beside the range, and another pair of hands turning cucumbers while the sauté cook watched the poultry. It needed neither a saucier, a standing stockpot, nor a salamander, so we invent none. At home, cook the cucumber first and hold it briefly, then give the chicken your full attention. Four portions, one skillet, one small saucepan. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Only the brigade scaffolding changes: the batch is smaller, a thermometer replaces practiced guesswork, and the garnish waits a few minutes for the chicken. The turned cucumber stays because it is the identity of Doria, while the quick sauté and last-minute beurre noisette are the dish itself. Before the chicken touches the pan, judge the heat: the clarified butter must shimmer without smoking, because that first contact decides whether the flour turns gold or drinks fat.
Suprêmes de Volaille Doria belongs to the Parisian classical repertoire, where à la Doria identifies cucumber cut into garlic-clove shapes and cooked in butter. The designation is sometimes mistaken for a composed sauce, but the preparation is deliberately spare: flour-dusted poultry, its cucumber garnish, beurre noisette, and lemon. It traveled readily from grand dining rooms to bourgeois home tables because it requires no stockpot or separate sauce, only exact knife work and a quick sauté.
Quantity
4 (about 5 to 6 ounces / 140 to 170 g each)
Quantity
2 (about 1 pound / 450 g total)
peeled
Quantity
1/3 cup (80 ml / 40 g)
for dredging
Quantity
1 1/4 teaspoons (6 ml / 7 g)
divided
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g)
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g)
divided
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g)
for cooking the cucumber
Quantity
4 tablespoons (60 ml / 57 g)
for the beurre noisette
Quantity
1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small boneless, skinless chicken breast fillets | 4 (about 5 to 6 ounces / 140 to 170 g each) |
| medium seedless cucumberspeeled | 2 (about 1 pound / 450 g total) |
| all-purpose flourfor dredging | 1/3 cup (80 ml / 40 g) |
| fine sea saltdivided | 1 1/4 teaspoons (6 ml / 7 g) |
| finely ground white pepper | 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g) |
| clarified butterdivided | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g) |
| unsalted butterfor cooking the cucumber | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) |
| unsalted butterfor the beurre noisette | 4 tablespoons (60 ml / 57 g) |
| fresh lemon juice | 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) |
Cut each peeled cucumber crosswise into pieces about 2 inches (5 cm) long, then quarter them lengthwise. Trim away the soft seed line and use a small paring knife to turn each firm piece into a plump, tapered oval resembling a garlic clove. Aim for 20 to 24 pieces of similar size so they cook together. Pat them dry. Set each chicken fillet between sheets of parchment and press the thick end gently to an even 3/4 inch (2 cm), without pounding the meat thin.
Melt the 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter in a wide pan over medium-low heat. Add the cucumber with 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and cook uncovered for 7 to 9 minutes, rolling the pieces often and basting them with butter. They should become tender enough for a knife tip to enter with slight resistance while remaining pale green and intact. If the cucumber releases a puddle, lift out the pieces, reduce the liquid until only butter and a light glaze remain, then roll them through it again. Hold off the heat under a loose cover.
Pat the chicken completely dry, then season both sides with the remaining salt and the white pepper. Spread the flour in a shallow dish and dredge each suprême immediately before cooking, pressing lightly and shaking off every loose patch. You want a veil of flour, not a crust. Flour left sitting on damp chicken turns pasty and will not color evenly.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the clarified butter in a 12-inch (30 cm) skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Lay in the suprêmes smooth-side down without crowding and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, until evenly golden. Turn once, add the remaining clarified butter if the pan looks dry, and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes. The chicken is ready to leave the pan at 160°F (71°C), then must reach 165°F (74°C) as it rests. If the flour colors too quickly while the center remains underdone, take the skillet off the heat for 30 seconds and lower the flame. If loose flour has scorched, transfer the chicken to a plate, wipe the skillet carefully, add the reserved clarified butter, and continue gently. Ça se rattrape. Move the cooked suprêmes to a warmed platter and arrange the cucumber around them.
Put the 4 tablespoons of unsalted butter in a small, light-colored saucepan over medium heat. Let it melt, foam, and quiet while you swirl the pan. When the milk solids turn hazelnut brown and the butter smells toasted, immediately pour it into a cool bowl to halt the cooking. Pale butter lacks the necessary depth, but black, acrid butter cannot be disguised. If it crosses that line, begin again. This takes minutes, and the finish deserves them.
Spoon the beurre noisette lightly over the suprêmes and cucumber, letting a little pool on the platter. Scatter the lemon juice in drops over the chicken rather than pouring it in one place. The lemon should sharpen the butter without becoming a separate sauce. Serve immediately while the chicken is tender, the flour coating is golden, and the cucumber still holds its shape. À table!
1 serving (about 250g)
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Chef Juliette
Filets de volaille sautés teach the discipline of even cutting and last-minute cooking: flour lightly, gild quickly in clarified butter, and serve before a tender chicken breast has time to harden.

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