
Chef Juliette
Suprêmes
Suprêmes de volaille sautés teach the Paris rule of tender breast meat: flour lightly, gild quickly in clarified butter, add no liquid, and carry the plates straight from skillet to table.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1580, Filets, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Filets de volaille sautés teach the discipline of even cutting and last-minute cooking: flour lightly, gild quickly in clarified butter, and serve before a tender chicken breast has time to harden.
Filets de volaille sautés (sautéed chicken breast fillets) teach one exact lesson: cut evenly and they cook evenly. A suprême, the skinless breast fillet of a fowl, is tender enough to gild in the same minutes it cooks through. Leave one end thick and the other thin, and the pan makes you choose between raw and dry.
The original formula assumed whole birds entering a brigade, a cook to split the breasts along the sternum, minion fillets lifted clear, clarified butter ready, and plates leaving the instant the pan was done. It needed neither a saucier nor the stockpot that never left the fire, and it called for no salamander, because this is a dry pan formula with no sauce or gratin. At home, four small breasts replace the whole birds, a heavy skillet replaces the vegetable pan, and wooden picks hold the truffle-contised minions in their crescents. Buying the breasts already divided is scaffolding we can remove; even thickness, dry sautéing, clarified butter, and immediate service are the dish and must stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Flour only at the last moment and don't crowd the pan. If a piece colors before its center is ready, lower the heat and turn it more often; ça se rattrape. Once cooked, however, a suprême cannot wait, so have the table and side dish ready before the butter grows hot.
In the Parisian classical kitchen, filet and suprême became synonymous menu terms for the skinless breast half of a fowl, composed of the large fillet and its smaller minion fillet. Côtelettes and ailerons were related cuts with the wing's humerus left attached, while the croquette-like cutlet made from cooked meat was a different preparation entirely. The breast passed from the poultry bench to the sauté pan as an à la minute, cooked-to-order formula, prized for precise trimming, quick gilding, and immediate service rather than an elaborate sauce.
Quantity
4 (about 1½ lb / 680 g total)
Quantity
1 small (about ½ oz / 15 g)
very thinly sliced
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 30 g)
Quantity
4 tablespoons (60 ml / 56 g)
Quantity
1¼ teaspoons (6 ml / 7 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small skinless, boneless chicken breasts with tenderloins attached | 4 (about 1½ lb / 680 g total) |
| whole truffle, fresh or preserved in its own juicevery thinly sliced | 1 small (about ½ oz / 15 g) |
| plain flour | ¼ cup (60 ml / 30 g) |
| clarified unsalted butter | 4 tablespoons (60 ml / 56 g) |
| fine sea salt | 1¼ teaspoons (6 ml / 7 g) |
Finish the accompanying vegetables or salad before beginning the chicken. Warm four plates in the lowest oven, or fill them briefly with hot water and dry them well. Arrange the flour, salt, butter, thermometer, and serving fork beside the stove. This mise en place, work put in order, protects the defining demand of the recipe: once the suprêmes are cooked, nothing may keep them waiting.
Pull the minion fillet, the small tenderloin, from the underside of each breast. Grip its white tendon through a clean towel, hold a small knife almost flat against it, and scrape the flesh away while pulling the tendon free. Set the minions aside. Place each large fillet between sheets of parchment and flatten only the thickest part until the meat is an even ⅝ inch (1.5 cm) thick. Keep the natural oval shape and don't pound it into a thin escalope.
Contise each minion by making three tiny, regularly spaced incisions across its smooth side and half-inserting a thin slice of truffle into every cut. Curve each minion into a crescent with the truffle showing and secure the ends with a wooden pick. This keeps the book's truffle garnish without requiring a brigade cook to shape it at service. Keep the crescents cold while you prepare the large fillets.
Dry every piece of chicken thoroughly and season both sides with the salt. Spread the flour on a plate, pass each suprême and minion through it, then tap and brush away everything that does not cling as a fine veil. Flour only when the skillet is nearly ready; left standing, it draws moisture from the meat and turns pasty instead of gilding.
Heat the clarified butter in a heavy 12-inch (30 cm) skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers freely across the surface. If it begins smoking, lift the pan from the heat; if it smells scorched, wipe the skillet carefully and begin with fresh clarified butter. Ça se rattrape. Lay in the four suprêmes, smooth side down, without letting them overlap. Sauté undisturbed for 2 to 3 minutes, until evenly gilded, then turn and cook the second side for about 2 minutes. The meat should feel resilient, not hard, and register 160 to 162°F (71 to 72°C) at its thickest point.
Transfer the suprêmes directly to the warm plates. During their brief carryover rest, sauté the minion crescents in the same butter for 45 to 60 seconds per side, until white throughout and registering 165°F (74°C). Remove the wooden picks and place one crescent beside each suprême. Confirm that the large fillets have reached 165°F (74°C); if not, return them to gentle heat for 20 to 30 seconds per side. Serve immediately. À table!
1 serving (about 155g)
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Chef Juliette
Suprêmes de volaille sautés teach the Paris rule of tender breast meat: flour lightly, gild quickly in clarified butter, add no liquid, and carry the plates straight from skillet to table.

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