
Chef Juliette
Poulets Sautés
The master sauté for poultry: jointed chicken coloured hard in clarified butter, cooked piece by piece to tenderness, then reunited with a pan sauce made from every bronze trace of fond.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1551, Poulet Sauté Fedora, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Pale butter-sautéed chicken, black truffle, and asparagus meet a coral-ivory sauce of cream, Béchamel, and crayfish butter, a precise lesson in gentle heat and finishing off the fire.
Poulet Sauté Fedora (pale-sautéed chicken with truffle, crayfish butter, and asparagus) teaches one exact lesson: Sauté does not always mean brown. Here the chicken must cook through in butter while staying ivory, because a browned crust or dark fond would overwhelm the truffle and muddy the delicate coral cream sauce. Pale is a controlled choice, not timid cooking.
The original entry assumed a saucier on staff, finished Béchamel and crayfish butter waiting in quantity, a stockpot never off the fire, and a salamander close by, though Fedora itself calls for neither stock nor overhead heat. At home, bulk sauce production and hot holding are brigade scaffolding, so they go; prepare the two finished components ahead, use one covered 12-inch sauté pan, and warm the serving platter with hot water. I have fixed the unquantified chicken and cooking butter at one 3½-to-4-pound bird and 3 tablespoons for four, then separated the finishing times of breast and leg meat because a young market chicken cooks unevenly. The truffle, cream, Béchamel, crayfish butter, asparagus, reduction, and sequence remain in the book's proportions. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Fedora arrives pale gold and glossy, its black truffle slices visible beneath a coral-ivory sauce and its asparagus heads still distinctly green. The step that decides the dish is the finish: take the pan completely off the fire before whisking in the cold crayfish butter, and never return that finished emulsion to direct heat.
Poulet Sauté Fedora belongs to the Parisian classical grand-kitchen repertoire rather than to any French province. Its theatrical name follows the practice of christening composed dishes for stage and society; Fedora is a title, not a geography, and the preparation is neither Russian nor regional. Raw truffle, asparagus, cream, Béchamel, and crayfish butter show how elementary Sauté cookery traveled into the named repertory of grand dining rooms while keeping the chicken itself at the center.
Quantity
1, 3½ to 4 pounds (1.6 to 1.8 kg)
cut into 8 pieces
Quantity
1¼ teaspoons (6 ml / 7 g)
divided
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g)
Quantity
about 1 cup loosely packed (240 ml / 115 g)
thinly sliced
Quantity
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (95 ml / 95 g)
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 48 g)
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 43 g)
chilled and diced
Quantity
¼ teaspoon (1 ml / 1 g)
Quantity
1 small pinch, less than ⅛ teaspoon (0.3 ml / 0.1 g)
Quantity
about 1 cup (240 ml / 115 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole chickencut into 8 pieces | 1, 3½ to 4 pounds (1.6 to 1.8 kg) |
| fine sea saltdivided | 1¼ teaspoons (6 ml / 7 g) |
| unsalted butter | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g) |
| raw black trufflethinly sliced | about 1 cup loosely packed (240 ml / 115 g) |
| heavy cream | ⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (95 ml / 95 g) |
| finished Béchamel sauce | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 48 g) |
| prepared beurre d'écrevisse (crayfish butter)chilled and diced | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 43 g) |
| fresh lemon juice | ¼ teaspoon (1 ml / 1 g) |
| cayenne pepper | 1 small pinch, less than ⅛ teaspoon (0.3 ml / 0.1 g) |
| asparagus heads or 2-inch tips | about 1 cup (240 ml / 115 g) |
Pat the chicken completely dry and season it with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Slice the raw truffle only now, so its aroma stays in the pan rather than on the cutting board. Measure the cream and Béchamel sauce into separate vessels, cut the cold beurre d'écrevisse into small pieces, and return it to the refrigerator. This mise en place, everything prepared before cooking, matters because the sauce moves quickly once the chicken leaves the pan.
Bring a small saucepan of water to a lively boil. Add the asparagus heads and parboil them for 45 to 90 seconds, according to thickness, until brilliantly green and barely yielding at the cut end. Drain immediately and spread them in one layer on a clean towel. They must remain firmer than you want to eat them because the finished sauce will provide their final warming.
Melt the unsalted butter in a covered 12-inch sauté pan over medium-low heat. When it foams but remains pale, add the chicken in one snug layer and scatter the sliced truffle around and beneath the pieces. Cover and cook gently, turning the chicken every 3 to 4 minutes without allowing either the butter or the skin to brown. Begin checking the breast pieces after 14 minutes; transfer each piece and its clinging truffle to a platter when it reaches 165°F (74°C), then continue the legs until they reach at least 170°F (77°C), usually 20 to 25 minutes in total. If the butter shows its first tan flecks, lift the pan from the heat and add a teaspoon of cold water to stop the browning, then continue over lower heat. It will sputter. It is exactly right, and ça se rattrape.
Dish the remaining chicken and truffle on the warm platter and cover loosely. If the pan contains more than 1 tablespoon of clear chicken fat, spoon off the excess while preserving every opaque cooking juice. Swill the pan with the heavy cream, scraping up the pale, concentrated juices, then whisk in the Béchamel sauce. Bring the mixture to a controlled simmer and reduce it to half its original volume, about ⅓ cup, whisking often. It should nap the back of a spoon yet still flow freely. If it becomes pasty, loosen it with a teaspoon of cream or warm water before proceeding.
Take the pan completely off the fire and wait 20 seconds. Monter au beurre, mounting with butter, by whisking in the cold beurre d'écrevisse a few pieces at a time until each addition disappears and the sauce becomes glossy and coral-ivory. Add the lemon juice, cayenne, and remaining salt only after tasting. If the sauce releases orange droplets of fat, do not reheat it. Ça se rattrape: place 1 teaspoon of cold cream in a clean bowl, whisk in one spoonful of the split sauce until smooth, then incorporate the remainder gradually.
Fold the parboiled asparagus heads into the finished sauce and turn them gently for 30 seconds, just long enough to coat and warm them. Do not return the pan to the fire. Pour the sauce and asparagus over the chicken, allowing the black truffle slices to remain visible, and serve at once while the emulsion is supple and gleaming. À table!
1 serving (about 340g)
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