
Chef Juliette
Poulets Sautés
The master sauté for poultry: jointed chicken coloured hard in clarified butter, cooked piece by piece to tenderness, then reunited with a pan sauce made from every bronze trace of fond.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1543, Poulet Sauté Chasseur, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Butter-bronzed chicken, a sharply reduced white-wine swill, and glossy Chasseur Sauce: this is the sauté that proves a finished sauce still depends on what happens beneath the bird.
Poulet Sauté Chasseur (sautéed chicken with hunter's sauce) teaches one true thing: a prepared sauce cannot rescue a weak pan reduction. Brown the chicken in equal butter and oil, lift it out, then swill the fond with white wine and reduce that liquid until the raw wine is gone and only concentrated flavor remains. The reduction is the hinge. Rush it, and the chasseur tastes washed out.
The original entry assumed a saucier on staff, Chasseur Sauce Escoffier waiting nearby, and a stockpot never off the fire. It needed no salamander, and neither do you. For one cook, one stove, one evening, that brigade scaffolding becomes 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons of finished sauce prepared from its own entry, one wide sauté pan, and a chicken cut for four. The sauce stays whole here because the book keeps it whole. What cannot go is the sequence: sauté, dish, swill, reduce, then sauce.
Keep your nerve at the wine reduction. Let it boil hard until it turns glossy and no longer smells sharp, but watch the fond closely: chestnut brown is flavor, black is bitterness. If it catches, leave the black specks behind and continue in a clean pan with the wine. Ça se rattrape. The one step that decides dinner is the hard reduction of that white-wine swill.
Poulet sauté chasseur belongs to the Parisian classical table and the wider cuisine bourgeoise, where a quickly cooked bird could be finished with one of the kitchen's standing sauces. Chasseur means hunter, but the name denotes the familiar combination of mushrooms, shallot, white wine, tomato, and herbs rather than proving the dish came from a single hunting district. Its journey to the home table was natural: the sauce could wait, while the chicken and its fresh pan reduction were cooked at the last moment.
Quantity
1, about 3 1/2 to 4 pounds (1.6 to 1.8 kg)
cut into 8 serving pieces
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons (7.5 ml / 9 g)
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g)
divided
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 27 g)
divided
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 45 g)
Quantity
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (150 ml / 160 g)
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 4 g)
concassed
Quantity
Up to 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g)
only if needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole chickencut into 8 serving pieces | 1, about 3 1/2 to 4 pounds (1.6 to 1.8 kg) |
| fine sea salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons (7.5 ml / 9 g) |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g) |
| unsalted butterdivided | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) |
| neutral oildivided | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 27 g) |
| dry white wine | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 45 g) |
| Chasseur Sauce Escoffier | 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (150 ml / 160 g) |
| flat-leaf parsley leavesconcassed | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 4 g) |
| hot water (optional)only if needed | Up to 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) |
Set the Chasseur Sauce Escoffier within reach. Pat every chicken piece thoroughly dry, then season all over with the salt and pepper. A wet bird releases water into the pan and steams before it browns; dry skin lets the equal measures of butter and oil do their proper work.
Sauté means cooking briskly in a shallow layer of fat. Heat 1 tablespoon each of the butter and oil in a wide, heavy pan over medium-high heat until the butter foams and then settles. Add the legs, thighs, and wings skin-side down without crowding, working in two batches if necessary. Brown them for 5 to 6 minutes, turn, lower the heat to medium, and continue turning occasionally until they reach at least 165°F (74°C), preferably about 175°F (79°C) beside the thigh bone, 16 to 20 minutes in all. Transfer them to a warm platter. Add the remaining butter and oil, then cook the breast pieces skin-side down until deeply golden before turning and finishing them to 165°F (74°C), about 10 to 14 minutes. Dish them beside the dark meat and keep the pan.
Set the chicken in a warm place while you finish the sauce. If the pan holds more than a thin film of fat, spoon off the excess, but do not wipe away the chestnut glaze stuck to its floor. That glaze is the fond, the browned foundation that joins the sautéed bird to the finished chasseur.
Return the pan to medium-high heat, pour in the white wine, and swill it firmly around the pan while scraping up every brown speck with a wooden spoon. Boil hard until the wine falls from 3 tablespoons to roughly 1 tablespoon, looks lightly syrupy, and smells rounded rather than raw. This reduction is the dish, not brigade scaffolding, so do not stop while it is still watery. If any pan patches are black rather than brown, do not scrape them in; pour the wine into a clean small saucepan, leave the burnt film behind, and finish reducing there. Ça se rattrape.
Add the Chasseur Sauce Escoffier to the reduced wine and stir over medium heat until the sauce simmers, turns glossy, and coats the back of a spoon, about 2 to 3 minutes. If it runs thin, reduce it a little longer before it reaches the chicken. If it tightens too far, loosen it with hot water one teaspoon at a time. You want a sauce that pours generously but does not flood the platter.
Pour the hot chasseur over the chicken, letting it pool beneath the pieces while some browned skin remains visible. Concass the parsley, meaning chop it roughly rather than mincing it to dust, and scatter it over the sauced bird. Bring the platter straight to the table while the glaze still shines. À table!
1 serving (about 275g)
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