Poularde Santa-Lucia

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •5½ to 6-quart (5.2 to 5.7 L) heavy cocotte with a close-fitting lid
• •Four shallow 3-inch (7.5 cm) tartlet molds
• •Small heavy skillet
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Warm oval serving platter and sauceboat

Instructions

1. 1

   Stuff the poularde

   Heat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Set the cold truffle component from Poularde Sainte Alliance (No. 1515) in a sieve over a bowl, keeping every drop of its Madeira liquor. Dry the poularde thoroughly, inside and out, then season it with 1¾ teaspoons of the salt and ¾ teaspoon of the pepper. Put the truffles into the cavity, truss the bird compactly, and cook it at once. A stuffed raw bird waits for nobody.

2. 2

   Make the gnocchi base

   Butter four shallow 3-inch (7.5 cm) tartlet molds with 1 tablespoon of the butter. Bring the milk to a gentle simmer with another tablespoon of butter, ½ teaspoon of salt, and the nutmeg. Rain in the semolina while whisking, then stir over low heat for 4 to 5 minutes, until the paste pulls cleanly from the pan. If it lumps, take it off the heat and beat vigorously with the whisk; ça se rattrape. Mix in the yolk and Parmesan, divide the paste among the molds, and smooth it about ½ inch (1.25 cm) thick. Chill until firm.

3. 3

   Brown the poularde

   Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a close-fitting heavy cocotte over medium heat, reserving another tablespoon in case the pot needs refreshing. Brown the poularde patiently on both legs, its back, and finally the breast, about 10 to 12 minutes altogether. You want a deep hazelnut colour and a brown fond across the pot floor. If the butter blackens before the skin colours, lift out the bird, wipe away the burnt solids, and begin again with the reserved butter. Burnt butter cannot build a good sauce, but the bird is not lost.

4. 4

   Braise with restraint

   Transfer the browned bird briefly to a tray. Pour the Marsala and reserved Madeira liquor into the cocotte, scrape up every part of the fond, and boil until reduced by half. Add the chicken stock and return the poularde breast-side up; the liquid should rise no more than one-third of the way up the bird. Cover and braise in the oven, basting every 20 minutes, until the thickest part of the breast and the centre of the cavity reach 165°F (74°C) and the thigh is tender, about 60 to 75 minutes. Never add liquid merely to surround the bird. The short moistening is the sauce.

5. 5

   Rest the bird

   Lift the poularde onto a warm tray, tipping any cavity juices back into the cocotte without losing the truffles. Tent it loosely and rest for 20 minutes; a tight wrapping softens the burnished skin. Raise the oven to 425°F (220°C), and set a serving platter somewhere warm.

6. 6

   Brown the tartlets

   Turn the chilled gnocchi tartlets onto a lined baking sheet and brush them with 2 tablespoons of melted butter. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until firm and golden underneath, then pass them under the broiler for 1 to 2 minutes to bronze the ridges. This is the honest home equivalent of the salamander. If a tartlet begins to spread, slip it back into its mold and finish it there; ça se rattrape.

7. 7

   Reduce and mount sauce

   Strain the braising liquor into a saucepan, pressing nothing through, and skim away the excess fat. Boil until it reduces to about 1¼ cups (300 ml) and naps the back of a spoon in a glossy layer. Take it off the heat and monter au beurre, finish by whisking in 2 tablespoons of cold butter, one piece at a time. If the sauce is thin, reduce it further before adding the butter; if it tightens too much, loosen it with unsalted stock. If it splits, whisk in a teaspoon of cold water away from the heat. Ça se rattrape.

8. 8

   Toss the foie gras

   Keep the foie gras cold until the final moment. Season the collops with the remaining salt and pepper. Heat the final tablespoon of butter in a skillet until it foams, add the foie gras, and toss it in the butter, turning once, until bronzed outside and just firm at the centre, about 30 to 45 seconds per side. Lift the collops out immediately. If they begin to slump, the pan is too hot; take it off the burner and move the foie gras to a cool plate before it renders away.

9. 9

   Arrange and serve

   Set the whole poularde on the warm oval platter, which replaces the original decorative cushion without pretending dinner needs architecture. Arrange the four gnocchi tartlets and four foie gras collops alternately around it. Spoon a little Marsala sauce over the bird and send the rest in a warm sauceboat. At the table, retrieve and divide the truffles as you carve, giving each diner poultry, truffle, one tartlet, one collop of foie gras, and enough sauce to join them. À table!

Chef Tips

• •A poularde is a plump young hen raised for tenderness and a generous breast. If your butcher cannot supply one, choose the finest broad-breasted roasting chicken you comfortably can at the stated weight. Technique first, always.
• •Use dry Marsala with enough character to drink, never sweet dessert Marsala or salted cooking wine. Reduction concentrates every fault as efficiently as every virtue.
• •Fresh black truffles give the deepest perfume. When they are out of season, good whole preserved black truffles are the classical pantry's honest answer; synthetic truffle oil is loud but cannot replace them.
• •The foie gras must be raw lobe cut into thick collops, not pâté or a prepared terrine. Keep it cold so the outside can colour before the fat melts away.
• •A mature white Burgundy has the breadth for foie gras and truffle without fighting the Marsala. Serve the wine cool rather than icy, so its aroma reaches the table.
• •Refrigerate leftover poultry and sauce within two hours and use them within three days. Reheat the chicken gently in the sauce; the foie gras and tartlets are best cooked fresh.

Advance Preparation

• •Prepare the Madeira-steeped truffle component from Poularde Sainte Alliance (No. 1515) the previous day and chill it in its sealed utensil. Stuff the poularde only when you are ready to cook.
• •The gnocchi à la romaine mixture can be molded, covered, and refrigerated one day ahead. Unmold, butter, and brown the tartlets while the poularde rests.
• •Measure the Marsala, stock, butter, and seasonings before the bird enters the cocotte. The final sauce and foie gras move quickly, and a dinner party is no reason to race your own stove.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 525g)