Soufflé de Jambon Gastronome

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Deep, straight-sided 1 3/4-quart (1.65-liter) soufflé dish or timbale
• •Medium heavy-bottomed saucepan
• •Balloon whisk or electric hand mixer
• •Large mixing bowl
• •Broad flexible spatula
• •Baking sheet
• •Instant-read thermometer

Instructions

1. 1

   Ready the timbale

   Set a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat it thoroughly to 400°F (200°C). Brush a deep, straight-sided 1 3/4-quart (1.65-liter) soufflé dish with 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) of the butter, working upward from base to rim so the rising mixture meets no dry patches. Set the dish on a baking sheet, and have the chopped and whole truffles beside it. Once the whites are folded, there must be nothing left to fetch.

2. 2

   Butter the noodles

   Cook the fine egg noodles in lightly salted boiling water until barely tender, about 1 minute less than the packet directs. Drain them thoroughly, return them to the warm dry pan for 30 seconds, and toss with 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) of the butter. They must be supple but dry enough to scatter. Wet or overcooked noodles weigh upon the soufflé and turn its delicate layers into paste.

3. 3

   Build the roux

   Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g) butter in a medium saucepan over moderate heat. Stir in the flour and cook this pale roux for 2 minutes without allowing it to color. Add the milk in several small pours, whisking each one smooth before the next, then whisk in the cream. Cook until the base bubbles slowly, pulls cleanly from the sides of the pan, and falls from the whisk in a heavy ribbon, about 3 minutes. If lumps appear, take the pan off the heat and whisk firmly; if they persist, press the base through a sieve before adding the ham. Ça se rattrape.

4. 4

   Finish the ham base

   Season the roux with 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml / 3 g) of the salt, the white pepper, and nutmeg, then stir in the finely minced ham. Let the mixture cool for 8 to 10 minutes, until warm rather than hot. Beat in the yolks one at a time, making certain each disappears before the next is added. Hot roux can curdle the yolks, while a cold, rigid base resists the whites; warm and yielding is exactly right.

5. 5

   Whip and fold

   Whisk the egg whites with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1.5 g) salt until they form glossy medium peaks whose tips bend slightly. Stop before they become dry or grainy. Stir one-quarter of the whites firmly into the ham base to lighten it, then add the rest in two portions, cutting down through the center with a broad spatula, sweeping along the base of the bowl, and turning the mixture over itself. A few pale streaks are safer than an extra minute of folding. Air is the structure, so handle it gently and move at once.

6. 6

   Layer without delay

   Spoon one-third of the soufflé mixture into the buttered timbale and scatter half the buttered noodles over it in a light, even litter, keeping them away from the outer rim. Cover with another third of the mixture, scatter over the remaining noodles, and finish with the last of the soufflé. Smooth the surface with one light pass only. Sprinkle the chopped truffle across the top, then set the small whole truffle precisely in the center, pressing it halfway into the mixture so it is anchored. Do not tamp the layers or pause to admire them. Bake at once.

7. 7

   Bake to a crown

   Place the timbale on its baking sheet in the oven and bake for 10 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 375°F (190°C) without opening the door. Continue for 22 to 27 minutes, until the soufflé has risen well above the rim, the crown is deep butter-gold, and the center has a soft quiver rather than a liquid slosh. Do not open the oven during the first 25 minutes. If the crown colors too quickly after that point, lay a loose sheet of foil over it and finish baking; ça se rattrape. An instant-read thermometer inserted just off-center should reach 160°F (71°C).

8. 8

   Serve it rising

   Carry the Soufflé de Jambon Gastronome straight to the table in its timbale and serve with a broad spoon, cutting down through the truffle crown, ham soufflé, and buttered noodle layers in each portion. It will settle as every honest soufflé does, but it should settle on the plates, not while waiting in the kitchen. The guests wait for the soufflé. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose Jambon de Paris or another moist, unsmoked cooked ham without a sweet glaze. Smoke and sugar overwhelm the truffle; this soufflé needs ham that tastes plainly of pork and good curing.
• •Fresh black truffle is magnificent when the season offers it, but a good whole preserved truffle is the classical pantry's honest answer. Drain it and blot it dry before chopping. Truffle oil does not perform the same work and changes the dish's flavor.
• •Use fine egg noodles rather than broad ribbons. Their job is to form light, buttered threads between the soufflé layers, not a dense seam that prevents the mixture from rising.
• •The roux base may taste slightly more seasoned than seems necessary before folding. Egg whites soften salt and spice, while the ham and truffle need enough seasoning to remain distinct.
• •Serve with a dry Champagne or a rounded white Burgundy. The acidity clears the butter and cream, while the wine has enough body for ham and truffle.

Advance Preparation

• •The roux and ham base can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead without the egg yolks. Press parchment directly against its surface, chill it, then let it stand for about 30 minutes and whisk it smooth before adding the yolks.
• •The noodles can be cooked, dried, and buttered up to 4 hours ahead. Chill them covered, then bring them toward room temperature while the oven heats so they do not cool the soufflé mixture.
• •The ham and chopped truffle may be prepared a day ahead and kept separately covered in the cold. Keep the whole truffle intact until assembly.
• •Do not whip the whites or assemble the layers in advance. Once folded, the soufflé goes directly into its timbale and directly into the oven.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 210g)