Hot Ham—its preparation

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •6-quart (5.7 L) heavy pot for soaking and poaching
• •4-quart (3.8 L) Dutch oven or snug lidded braising pan
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Pastry brush
• •Fine-mesh strainer and fat separator

Instructions

1. 1

   Soak and brush

   Put the ham in a nonreactive vessel, cover it completely with the soaking water, and refrigerate for six hours. Turn it once halfway through if part of the joint wants to float. Drain, then brush the rind thoroughly under cold running water to remove any remaining surface cure. Do not shorten the soak simply because the joint is small; it tempers the salt so the Madeira sauce can reduce without becoming harsh.

   If the ham is exceptionally salty according to the butcher, cut off a thin piece after soaking, simmer it for a few minutes, and taste. Give the joint another hour in fresh cold water if the sample remains aggressive.
2. 2

   Poach without boiling

   Set the ham in a heavy pot and add enough fresh cold water to cover it. Add no salt, herbs, or aromatic garnish. Bring the water slowly toward a boil, then lower the heat as soon as the first steady bubbles appear. Hold it between 185 and 195°F (85 and 90°C), with only an occasional bubble breaking the surface, for about 55 minutes, or until the center reaches 125 to 130°F (52 to 54°C). This leaves the ham roughly thirty minutes shy of cooked, as the original preparation requires before braising. If the pot breaks into a boil, lower the heat and add a cupful of cold water; the ham is not lost, but gentleness must resume immediately.

3. 3

   Skin and trim

   Lift the ham from the poaching water and let it stand until it can be handled comfortably. Peel away the rind while the joint is still warm, then trim off loose or excessive fat, leaving an even layer about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick to protect the meat and carry the glaze. Pat the surface dry. A wet ham dilutes the Madeira and prevents the glaze from holding later.

4. 4

   Braise in Madeira

   Heat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Choose a Dutch oven or braising pan that holds the ham closely, pour in the Madeira, and settle the ham into it. Lay parchment or foil directly beneath the lid and close it tightly; the seal replaces the original luted braising pan and keeps this small measure of wine from escaping. Braise gently for one hour, turning the ham every fifteen minutes so each side drinks the Madeira. The center should reach at least 145°F (63°C). If the wine threatens to dry out, add 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the poaching water and reseal the pot.

5. 5

   Build the demi-glace

   Transfer the ham to a warm platter and let it rest while you make the sauce. Strain the braising liquor into a fat separator or bowl, wait five minutes, and remove every trace of floating grease. Taste the liquor before combining it with the demi-glace. If it is fiercely salty, use only half and replace the balance with unsalted hot water; ça se rattrape. Combine the usable liquor with 1 cup (240 ml) of the demi-glace and simmer until nappant, coating the back of a spoon in a light, glossy film rather than a sticky syrup. Add the pepper. If the sauce becomes too thick, loosen it with water; if it remains thin, reduce it a little longer. Keep the remaining demi-glace for adjusting an over-concentrated sauce.

6. 6

   Glaze and carve

   Set aside 2 to 3 tablespoons (30 to 45 ml) of sauce and reduce it separately until it clings richly to the spoon. Brush a thin coat over the ham, place it about 8 inches (20 cm) beneath the broiler, and watch without wandering until the surface turns glossy and deep chestnut. Apply a second thin coat if needed. If the glaze slides away, blot the surface dry and use a thinner coat. Carve the ham across the grain, arrange the slices against the remaining whole piece, and serve the light Madeira demi-glace beside it. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Ask for an uncooked, dry-cured York ham or a mild unsmoked gammon-style joint. A ready-to-eat spiral ham has already completed its cooking and will dry out during the poach and braise.
• •Use medium-dry Madeira with enough acidity to stand against cured pork. The source permits other fortified wines when the menu title changes, but this is the Madère preparation, so the Madeira is not an incidental choice.
• •Prepared demi-glace should be gelatin-rich, low in salt, and pourable when warm. If yours is sold as a concentrate, dilute it to finished sauce strength before measuring the quantity for this recipe.
• •Do not sweeten or stud the ham with cloves. Its finish is a meat glaze built from Madeira, ham liquor, and demi-glace, polished rather than candied.
• •Carve only what the table will eat. The uncut portion holds its moisture better and makes excellent cold slices the following day.

Advance Preparation

• •The six-hour soak can be completed earlier in the day. Keep the ham submerged in the refrigerator, then drain and brush it just before poaching.
• •For the source method's preferred make-ahead path, poach the ham fully to 145°F (63°C), then cool it in its cooking liquor. Set the covered pot in an ice-water bath so it cools promptly, then refrigerate the ham submerged once cold; never leave the pot standing at room temperature for hours.
• •When braising a fully cooked, chilled ham on serving day, shorten the Madeira braise to 35 to 45 minutes, just until the center is thoroughly hot. This is the necessary adjustment for a small joint that has already finished cooking; giving it another full hour would dry it.
• •Refrigerate leftover ham and sauce separately within two hours. The ham keeps for 3 to 4 days, and the sauce reheats best over gentle heat with a spoonful of water.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 375g)