Oreilles à la Sainte Menehould

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •5 to 6-quart (4.7 to 5.7 L) heavy pot
• •Two rimmed sheet pans
• •Oven-safe wire rack
• •Pastry brush
• •Metal skewer or thin paring knife

Instructions

1. 1

   Clean and blanch

   Inspect the ears carefully, removing any remaining hairs and scraping away discoloured patches. Rinse inside every fold. Put the ears in the pot, cover generously with fresh cold water, and bring to a boil for 5 minutes. Drain, rinse the ears, and wash the pot. This blanching is useful home-kitchen scaffolding: it clears away residue and gives the final poaching liquor a clean taste.

2. 2

   Poach until tender

   Return the blanched ears to the clean pot with the measured cold water, salt, onion, carrot, bouquet garni, and peppercorns. Bring the liquid just to a simmer, skim the surface, then lower the heat until only an occasional bubble rises. Partially cover and cook for 2½ to 3 hours, adding a little hot water if the ears cease to be submerged. They are ready when a skewer passes through the thick base without a rubbery push and the tip bends easily. The clock advises; the skewer decides. If they remain resistant, continue in 20-minute intervals. A grill cannot repair an undercooked ear.

   Never let the pot gallop. Hard boiling can split the skin and twist the ears; if it happens, lower the heat at once and finish the poach gently. The later pressing and crumb coating will tidy ragged edges.
3. 3

   Cool, press, split

   Lift the tender ears onto a parchment-lined tray and discard the poaching liquor and aromatics. Cover with a second sheet of parchment, set another tray on top, and add a light weight, about 2 lb / 900 g. Let them cool for 20 minutes, then refrigerate under the weight for about 1 hour, until cold and firm. Pat them thoroughly dry and cut each ear lengthwise from tip to base into two long pieces. The light pressing keeps them flat enough to grill evenly without crushing their character.

4. 4

   Mustard, butter, crumb

   Set an oven rack about 8 inches / 20 cm below the broiler and preheat the broiler on low. Arrange the ear halves on an oven-safe rack set over a rimmed sheet pan. Brush both sides evenly with Dijon mustard, brush or trickle over the melted butter, then press on a thin, complete layer of raspings. Mustard first, butter second, crumbs last: that sequence makes the crust. If the coating slides, the ears were damp or received too much butter. Pat on more dry crumbs and chill them for 10 minutes. Ça se rattrape.

   Raspings are finely grated dry bread. Grate a thoroughly dried piece of baguette or use plain fine dry breadcrumbs; coarse panko makes a different, heavier crust.
5. 5

   Grill gently

   Broil the ears gently for 6 to 8 minutes on the first side, then turn them carefully and grill the second side for another 5 to 7 minutes. They should be hot through, at least 165°F / 74°C at the thick base, with a dry bronze crust, crisp edges, and small points of melted butter gleaming between the crumbs. Distance is your control here. If one patch darkens too quickly, cover it with a small piece of foil and lower the tray while the rest catches up.

6. 6

   Serve apple sauce apart

   Transfer the ears to a warm platter and serve them immediately, two long halves per person. They are traditionally served plain. If you offer the apple sauce, put it in a bowl beside the platter so each person takes a spoonful and the crisp crust remains crisp. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Ask a butcher for thoroughly cleaned pig's ears with the hair removed. Frozen ears are perfectly sound when that is what the market offers; thaw them overnight in the refrigerator, then inspect and blanch them exactly as you would fresh ones.
• •The skewer test matters more than pedigree. Modest ears poached patiently will eat beautifully, while costly ears hurried from the pot remain stubborn. Technique first, always.
• •Use sharp Dijon mustard, not sweet or grainy mustard. Its acidity cuts the richness and its smooth body grips the fine crumbs without turning the crust coarse.
• •Plain raspings are essential. Seasoned crumbs, cheese, garlic, and herbs would rewrite the source rather than translate it. We don't apologize for butter, and we don't hide the ear beneath decoration.
• •Choose a tart, unsweetened apple sauce and serve it apart. Its cool acidity is a counterpoint, not a glaze. A dry Champagne from the Marne is a splendid glass beside the crisp, buttery crust.

Advance Preparation

• •Poach and press the ears up to 2 days ahead. Once completely cold, wrap them closely and refrigerate; cut and coat them only when you are ready to grill.
• •If serving the dish the same evening, begin with the poach. Most of the cooking is unattended, and the brief weighted chill gives the ears enough firmness to split cleanly.
• •Do not apply the mustard and crumbs the day before. The coating absorbs moisture in the refrigerator and loses the dry surface needed for a crisp finish.
• •Leftover cooked ears may be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat them under a low broiler rather than in a covered pan, which softens the crust.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 290g)