Fresh Neck of Pork with Stewed Apples

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Shallow heavy metal roasting pan
• •Instant-read or probe thermometer
• •Kitchen twine
• •1 1/2 to 2-quart (1.4 to 1.9-litre) heavy saucepan with a tight lid
• •Wire whisk
• •Heatproof jug or fat separator

Instructions

1. 1

   Heat and season

   Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Pat the pork completely dry, tie it into a compact, even roast if the butcher has not already done so, and season every surface with the salt. Set it fat-side up in a shallow metal roasting pan with a little space around it. No added fat is needed; a properly marbled neck brings its own.

   An even shape matters more than perfect tying. Thin flaps dry before the centre softens, so tuck them underneath and secure them with kitchen twine.
2. 2

   Roast until yielding

   Roast for 20 minutes, until the exposed surface begins to bronze, then lower the oven to 325°F (165°C). Continue roasting for 1 hour 30 minutes to 1 hour 50 minutes, beginning to check at the shorter time. The neck is ready when its crust is deep Maillard bronze, a probe enters the centre with little resistance, and the internal temperature reaches 185 to 190°F (85 to 88°C). The source asks for the meat well done, and neck rewards that instruction: its fat renders and its connective tissue softens instead of leaving the joint tough. If the crust darkens too quickly, cover it loosely with foil. If the pan juices threaten to burn, add hot water 1 tablespoon at a time around the meat, never over its crust; if a patch has already blackened, move the roast to a clean pan and leave the bitter patch behind.

3. 3

   Seal the apples

   During the final 20 minutes of roasting, peel, core, and finely mince the apples. Put them in a small heavy saucepan with the sugar and 3 tablespoons water. Crimp a sheet of foil tightly over the rim, then clamp on the lid. Set the pan over medium-high heat until bubbling is audible, about 2 minutes, then reduce to medium and cook quickly for 10 to 12 minutes without lifting the lid. Shake the closed pan once or twice so the apples settle evenly. If a caramel smell appears early, remove the pan from the heat at once; lift the pale apples into a clean saucepan without scraping the dark bottom, add 1 tablespoon hot water, reseal, and finish gently. Ça se rattrape.

   A heavy saucepan and a tight seal create the concentrated cooking chamber the original entry expects. A loose lid is not a small inconvenience here; it changes the method.
4. 4

   Clear the gravy

   Transfer the finished pork to a warm platter, cover it loosely, and rest it for 20 minutes. Pour the roasting juices into a heatproof jug and let the fat rise for 5 minutes. Spoon away roughly three quarters of the visible fat, reserving a teaspoon, but leave enough to give the gravy a proper sheen. Return the dark juices and remaining fat to the roasting pan, add only enough hot water to release the brown fond, and scrape over medium heat. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, until the flavor is concentrated but the gravy remains fluid. If over-skimming made it taste thin, whisk back a little reserved pork fat. This is clear roast gravy, not a flour-thickened sauce.

5. 5

   Whisk the purée

   Just before carving, return the covered apples to low heat for 1 minute. Uncover and work them thoroughly with a wire whisk until the purée is smooth and softly mounded. If firm pieces remain, add 1 teaspoon hot water, reseal, and cook for another 2 minutes before whisking again. If the purée is loose, cook it uncovered for a minute while whisking. Keep it warm under its lid; no cream, spice, or blender is needed.

6. 6

   Carve and serve

   Cut the pork across the grain into slices about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) thick and arrange them on the warm platter. Spoon the cleared gravy over and around the meat, letting its gloss show without drowning the crust. Transfer the pommes étuvées to a warmed small bowl, the honest home equivalent of the original timbale, and serve them separately. Each forkful should carry as much or as little apple as its owner wants. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Ask for fresh pork neck, collar, or échine, meaning uncured pork from the upper shoulder and neck. Do not replace it with loin, which lacks the fat and connective tissue needed for this roasting temperature. A compact, well-marbled boneless shoulder roast is the nearest substitute, though its grain will be coarser.
• •Choose an apple that collapses willingly but keeps some acidity. Bramley is splendid where available; Granny Smith works reliably. Weigh the pound before peeling, as the source does, and mince only when the roast is nearly finished.
• •The book's ratio is deliberate: 1 pound of apples to 1 ounce of sugar. Taste after whisking, but do not sweeten automatically. The purée must answer the rich pork with fruit and acidity, not behave like dessert.
• •A dry Norman cider is the natural glass beside this dish. A light red with lively acidity also works, but avoid a heavy, tannic wine that makes the apple taste flat.

Advance Preparation

• •The pork may be tied and salted 12 to 24 hours ahead, then refrigerated uncovered. Its drier surface browns more readily; remove it from the cold about 30 minutes before roasting.
• •The apples, sugar, and water can be weighed earlier in the day, but peel and mince the fruit only shortly before cooking. Raw minced apples discolor and surrender their moisture before the lid can capture it.
• •Leftover pork, gravy, and apple purée keep separately in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat the sliced pork covered with its gravy at 300°F (150°C), and warm the purée over low heat with a teaspoon of water.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 340g)