Moussaka

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •1½-quart (1.4-litre) low-sided Charlotte mould or 6-inch by 3-inch (15 by 7.5 cm) straight-sided cake tin
• •10-inch (25 cm) heavy skillet
• •Deep roasting tin large enough to hold the mould
• •Wire rack and tray for draining
• •Round serving platter slightly wider than the mould

Instructions

1. 1

   Cisel and fry

   Cisel the flesh of the three halved aubergines, scoring it deeply in close crosshatches without piercing the skins. Pour enough oil into a heavy skillet to reach a depth of ¼ inch (6 mm) and heat it to 350°F (175°C). Fry the halves in batches, cut-side down first, until the flesh yields readily to a spoon, about 5 to 7 minutes, then give the skin side only a brief turn in the oil. Drain them cut-side down on a rack.

2. 2

   Scoop the skins

   When the halves are cool enough to hold, scoop out their flesh with a spoon, leaving a thin layer attached so the skins remain supple and whole. Set the skins aside and blot away any excess oil. If one tears, don't discard it. Ça se rattrape: overlap the torn edges when lining the mould and cover the join with another skin.

3. 3

   Fry the roundels

   Season the peeled aubergine rounds with half the salt and a little pepper, dredge them lightly in the flour, and shake off every loose trace. Return the oil to 350°F (175°C), then fry the rounds in batches until golden and tender, about 2 minutes on each side. Drain them in a single layer on the rack. If the first round drinks oil and remains pale, the oil is too cool; lift it out, drain it, and let the oil recover before continuing.

4. 4

   Cook the aromatics

   Melt 1 teaspoon of the butter over medium-low heat and cook the onion until soft and translucent without letting it colour. Scrape it into a mixing bowl. Add 1 tablespoon of butter to the pan, raise the heat, and sauté the mushrooms until their released moisture has evaporated and their edges take a little brown. Cool both completely. Chop the reserved aubergine pulp; if it leaves liquid on the board, cook it briefly in the dry pan until that moisture disappears, then cool it as well.

5. 5

   Bind the filling

   Add the cold aubergine pulp, mutton, onion, mushrooms, 1 teaspoon of parsley, garlic, egg, cold Sauce Espagnole, tomato purée, remaining salt, and remaining pepper to the bowl. Mix until evenly bound but don't mash away the mutton's texture. The mixture should mound on a spoon. If warmth has made it loose, chill it for 10 to 15 minutes; the cold Espagnole will regain its body.

6. 6

   Line and layer

   Heat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter a 1½-quart (1.4-litre) Charlotte mould with the remaining butter. Line the base and sides with most of the aubergine skins, placing the dark skin against the mould and overlapping the edges so no metal shows. Let a little skin extend above the rim. Pack in a 1-inch (2.5 cm) layer of mutton filling, cover it with fried aubergine rounds, and continue alternating filling and rounds, pressing each layer firmly. Finish with filling, then fold over the extended skins and cover any gap with the reserved pieces.

7. 7

   Bake in bain-marie

   Set the mould in a deep roasting tin and pour in enough boiling water to come halfway up its sides. Bake in the bain-marie for 1 hour, until the centre reaches 160°F (71°C) and feels firmly set when pressed lightly. The water should barely ripple. If it begins boiling hard, lower the oven to 325°F (165°C) and add a little cool water to the roasting tin; ça se rattrape, and the gentler bath keeps the egg from tightening into a coarse filling.

8. 8

   Rest and turn out

   Lift the mould from the bain-marie and let it stand for exactly 5 minutes so the layers settle. Run a thin knife around the rim, place a round platter firmly over the mould, and invert both together in one confident motion. If the moussaka clings, leave the mould inverted and wrap it for 30 seconds with a towel dipped in the warm bain-marie water, then lift again. Sprinkle the surface with the remaining parsley and carry it whole to the table. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose small aubergines with taut, glossy skins for the lining. Large, seedy ones have thicker skins that resist the mould and wetter flesh that weakens the filling.
• •The recipe begins with cooked lean mutton because it was designed to give a previous roast another generous service. Leg is ideal. If mutton can't be found, mature lamb will hold the structure, though its flavour is gentler.
• •The Sauce Espagnole must be prepared, concentrated, and cold before it enters the filling. Its body helps bind the mutton and aubergine; a loose pan gravy will make the finished mould slump.
• •Keep the frying oil properly hot and work in batches. Aubergine absorbs cool oil with alarming enthusiasm, while hot oil colours the surface quickly and leaves the flesh tender rather than sodden.
• •Use a platter only slightly wider than the mould. A broad empty plate makes the turn-out harder to control and leaves this generous dish looking unnecessarily lonely.

Advance Preparation

• •Cook the mutton and prepare the Sauce Espagnole up to 2 days ahead. Chill both completely before mixing the filling.
• •The aubergines can be fried and drained several hours ahead. Keep the skins and roundels in separate covered layers in the cold, then let them lose their chill for 20 minutes before assembly.
• •The entire mould can be assembled up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated. Let it stand at room temperature for 30 minutes, then bake it in a freshly prepared bain-marie, allowing an additional 10 to 15 minutes for the centre to reach 160°F (71°C).
• •Refrigerate leftover slices for up to 3 days. Reheat them covered at 325°F (165°C) until warmed through so the exposed filling doesn't dry.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 270g)