
Chef Juliette
Saddle of Mutton
Selle de mouton rôtie teaches that the roast is decided before the oven: trim cleanly, fold the flanks close, tie firmly, then carve rosy slices beside vegetables glossed with real butter.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1319, Côtelettes en Belle Vue, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Côtelettes en Belle Vue turn cold veal into a lucid showpiece: tender chops, black truffle, and chervil sealed beneath clear Madeira aspic, with every decoration held exactly where the cook placed it.
Côtelettes en Belle Vue (veal cutlets under clear aspic) teach a cold-kitchen truth: temperature is part of technique. The cutlets, decoration, and aspic must all be cold before the glazing begins. Warm aspic slides away; warm meat melts the coat. Bring the three together at the right moment and the jelly sets transparent and tender, holding every leaf and truffle cutting in plain view.
The original assumed a saucier with veal stock never off the fire, a garde-manger with an ice-cold larder, and enough hands to glaze a banquet platter between other jobs. Here, very clear veal stock and measured gelatin replace naturally jellied stock whose strength changed from pot to pot, while an ordinary refrigerator replaces the cold room. I have scaled the arrangement to four cutlets and one tray. The vat of aspic and brigade-sized display were scaffolding; the clear successive coats are the dish and must stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
The first coat matters most. Make it thin enough to tack the decoration without floating it, then chill it completely before adding the next. If the aspic sets in the bowl or slips from the meat, don't start again. Ça se rattrape, and the method tells you exactly how.
Côtelettes en Belle Vue belong to the Parisian garde-manger and formal cold buffet, where cooked cutlets were decorated, glazed with aspic, and arranged so every ornament could be inspected before service. Belle vue names the visual effect, not a sauce or a province: the clear jelly preserves the view of the truffle and herbs beneath it. The method passed into bourgeois make-ahead cooking because aspic protected the cooked meat while allowing a cold main to wait handsomely for guests.
Quantity
4 chops, about 6 ounces (170 g) each
3/4 inch (2 cm) thick
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons (7.5 ml / 9 g)
divided
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g)
Quantity
3 cups (720 ml / 720 g)
divided
Quantity
1 1/2 tablespoons (22.5 ml / 14 g)
Quantity
1/4 cup (60 ml / 60 g)
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g)
Quantity
16 neat pieces, about 1 ounce (28 g)
drained
Quantity
16
washed and thoroughly dried
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in veal rib chops3/4 inch (2 cm) thick | 4 chops, about 6 ounces (170 g) each |
| fine sea saltdivided | 1 1/2 teaspoons (7.5 ml / 9 g) |
| freshly ground white pepper | 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g) |
| clarified butter | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) |
| very clear, defatted veal stockdivided | 3 cups (720 ml / 720 g) |
| unflavored powdered gelatin | 1 1/2 tablespoons (22.5 ml / 14 g) |
| dry Madeira | 1/4 cup (60 ml / 60 g) |
| fresh lemon juice | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) |
| preserved black truffledrained | 16 neat pieces, about 1 ounce (28 g) |
| small chervil leaveswashed and thoroughly dried | 16 |
Pour 1/2 cup (120 ml) of the cold veal stock into a bowl, sprinkle the gelatin evenly over it, and leave it for 10 minutes to bloom. Bring the remaining stock just to a simmer, remove it from the heat, and whisk in the bloomed gelatin until completely dissolved. Add the Madeira, lemon juice, and up to 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. It should taste slightly more seasoned than a hot broth because cold mutes flavor. Strain through damp cheesecloth or a very fine sieve without pressing. Pour 1 cup (240 ml) into a shallow dish and refrigerate until firm for the chopped aspic garnish. Set the remaining aspic over an ice bath, stirring gently, until it has the body of light syrup. If it sets too far, warm the bowl over barely warm water for a few seconds; if it remains watery, return it to the ice. Ça se rattrape.
Pat the veal completely dry and season both sides with the remaining salt and the white pepper. Heat the clarified butter in a wide heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cutlets without crowding and brown them for 3 to 4 minutes on the first side and 2 to 3 minutes on the second, then lower the heat and cook gently until the centers reach 145°F (63°C). Stand each chop briefly on its fatty edge to color it. Rest for 10 minutes, then transfer the cutlets in a single layer to a clean tray and refrigerate uncovered for 45 to 60 minutes, until thoroughly cold. Don't glaze warm meat. The aspic will melt, cloud, and run away from it.
Trim any ragged fat from the cold cutlets while leaving the bones attached, then blot every surface dry. Arrange them presentation-side up on a chilled wire rack set over a rimmed tray. Lay four pieces of truffle and four chervil leaves in a simple pattern on each cutlet. Brush or spoon over only enough syrupy aspic to tack the decoration in place, then refrigerate for 10 minutes. If a leaf floats or shifts, the aspic is too warm or too loose; lift it back into position, chill the aspic until slightly thicker, and try again.
Spoon a thin coat of syrupy aspic over each cutlet, starting at the center and letting it flow naturally toward the edges. Refrigerate for 8 to 10 minutes, until the coat feels firm, then repeat twice more. Three thin coats make a clearer, more even cloak than one heavy pour. If the aspic slides off, chill both the rack and bowl for 10 minutes. If it falls in ridges or clumps, warm the bowl briefly over barely warm water and stir until smooth. The finished glaze should be transparent and about 1/8 inch (3 mm) deep, with the decoration held sharply beneath it.
Dip a small offset spatula in hot water, wipe it dry, and slide it carefully beneath each cutlet to release the aspic from the rack. Trim away any hanging drips with the warm blade and arrange the cutlets on a chilled serving platter. Chop or rake the reserved firm aspic into bright, irregular crystals and spoon them around the cutlets, never over the decorated faces. Refrigerate until service, then let the platter stand for 10 minutes before carrying it to the table. Serve within 2 hours of leaving the refrigerator. Cold, but not numb. À table!
1 serving (about 315g)
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