Cold Leg of Mutton

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Long sharp slicing knife, 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm)
• •Large stable cutting board with a juice groove
• •Plain flat oval platter, about 14 inches (35 cm)

Instructions

1. 1

   Chill the joint

   Set the intact cooked mutton on a shallow plate and refrigerate it promptly, always within 2 hours of cooking. Leave it uncovered until its surface is cold, then cover it closely so it does not dry. Chill for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight, until the centre is cold and the fat feels firm. Do not slice it before chilling; every exposed surface gives up moisture, while an intact piece keeps its juices where they belong.

   Keep the refrigerator at or below 40°F (4°C). The home-scaled section cools more safely than a brigade-sized joint and still leaves enough breadth for handsome slices.
2. 2

   Prepare for carving

   Keep the mutton cold until the board and platter are ready. Pat away any surface moisture, then trim only loose gristle and any thick, waxy outer fat; leave a narrow rim of fat where it is tender and well browned. Use a long, freshly sharpened slicing knife. A short blade encourages a sawing motion, which roughens the meat.

3. 3

   Find the grain

   Study the cut face and locate the direction of the muscle fibres. A leg contains several muscles whose grain changes direction, so turn the joint as you work rather than forcing every slice from one angle. If necessary, lift a large muscle away from the bone along its natural seam, keeping it intact, then place it flat on the board with the grain running across your knife.

4. 4

   Carve thin slices

   Carve across the grain into slices about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick, drawing the full length of the blade through the meat in one smooth stroke. Do not press down or saw. If the slices tear, curl tightly, or crumble, stop. Ça se rattrape: return the remaining piece to the refrigerator for 20 minutes, sharpen the knife, and check the grain again before continuing.

5. 5

   Dish it simply

   Lay the slices flat or in one lightly overlapping row on a plain, cool platter, keeping the browned edges visible. Do not pile them high, curl them decoratively, cover them with sauce, or bury them beneath garnish. Hold the covered platter in the refrigerator if necessary, then let it stand for 10 minutes before serving so the flavour opens without softening the fat. Bring it to the table plainly. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Mutton means meat from a mature sheep, with a deeper flavour and firmer grain than lamb. Ask a butcher specifically for mutton. Lamb can be handled by the same method, but it becomes gigot d'agneau froid, a milder dish, and the difference is not invisible.
• •Reserve the broadest intact section of the cooked leg before the first meal begins. A collection of small scraps may make an excellent hash, but it cannot give the long, clean slices this preparation requires.
• •Serve bread, cornichons, mustard, or a sharply dressed salad beside the platter if lunch wants them, never arranged over the meat. The source instruction is exact about this: the joint itself is dished very simply.
• •For a picnic, transport the covered platter below 40°F (4°C) with ice packs. Return leftovers to the cold within 2 hours, or within 1 hour in very warm weather.

Advance Preparation

• •Reserve the mutton as one intact section after the original meal, refrigerate it promptly, and chill it overnight. Carving it only when cold preserves its moisture and gives cleaner slices.
• •The platter may be carved and arranged up to 4 hours before lunch. Cover it closely and refrigerate, then uncover it 10 minutes before serving.
• •Properly chilled cooked mutton keeps for 3 to 4 days after its initial cooking. For a picnic, keep it cold during transport and uncover it only when the table is ready.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 275g)