Steak and Kidney Pudding

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •2-quart (2-liter) heatproof pudding basin with a pronounced rim
• •8-quart (7.5-liter) heavy stockpot with a tight-fitting lid
• •Heatproof trivet or small inverted saucer
• •Parchment paper, heavy foil, and kitchen string
• •Kettle for replenishing the cooking water

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the boiler

   Set a heatproof trivet or an inverted saucer in the bottom of a deep, heavy stockpot. Place the empty 2-quart (2-liter) pudding basin on it and add enough water to reach halfway up the basin, then remove the basin and bring the water to a boil under a tight lid. Keep a kettle of water ready for replenishing the pot during the long cook.

2. 2

   Season the filling

   Trim every hard white core and membrane from the kidney, then cut it into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces. Combine the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Season the beef and kidney evenly with this mixture, then toss each separately with the chopped onion and parsley. Keep the meats separate for the source preparation's layered filling.

3. 3

   Line the basin

   Reserve one quarter of the prepared Suet Dumpling (No. 1166) for the lid. Roll the remainder into a round about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick, lower it into the basin, and press it evenly across the bottom and sides, leaving a small overhang at the rim. If the paste tears, don't start again. Ça se rattrape: press a thin scrap over the hole with damp fingers until no seam remains. A firm, unbroken lining matters more than a perfectly smooth one.

   Press the paste into the curve where the basin floor meets the wall. An air pocket there weakens the crust and can split when the filling settles.
4. 4

   Layer the meat

   Arrange a layer of seasoned beef across the bottom and continue the slices up the sides, overlapping them slightly. Put the seasoned kidney in the middle, then cover it with the remaining beef. Pour in only enough water to cover the meat, usually 1 to 1½ cups (240 to 355 ml / 240 to 355 g), while leaving at least ¾ inch (2 cm) of headroom beneath the rim. The water is deliberate: enclosed with the meat juices and seasoning, it becomes the gravy.

5. 5

   Seal the pouding

   Roll the reserved Suet Dumpling (No. 1166) into a lid slightly wider than the basin. Moisten both pastry edges with water, lay on the lid, and pinch it firmly to the lining all the way around. Trim any heavy excess and fold the seam inward. If one section refuses to adhere, lift it, wet both surfaces again, and repinch until the join becomes one piece. Don't pierce the lid. The seam is the dish. Butter a sheet of parchment, pleat it across the middle to allow for expansion, and place it buttered-side down over the basin. Cover with pleated foil and tie kitchen string securely beneath the basin's lip. This replaces the original buttered, floured napkin because it excludes splashing water more reliably in a home stockpot.

6. 6

   Cook five hours

   Lower the covered basin onto the trivet in the boiling water. The water should come halfway up its sides without reaching the tied cover. Cover the stockpot and maintain a steady, contained boil for five full hours. Check the level every forty-five minutes and replenish only with boiling water, because cold water stops the cooking and a dry pot can crack the basin. If the level has fallen too far, refill it at once and allow the water to return to the boil before resuming the timing.

7. 7

   Rest and serve

   Lift out the basin carefully and let it stand for ten minutes. Remove the string, foil, and parchment, then wipe the outside of the basin dry. Serve the pouding as it stands, just as the source directs: cut through the suet lid at the table and spoon out beef, kidney, crust, and the gravy gathered beneath. Never apologize at your own table. À table!

Chef Tips

• •The source asks for very lean beef, so choose top round, bottom round, or another lean braising cut and slice it across the grain. Don't brown it. The enclosed raw meat and its juices are the foundation of this particular gravy.
• •Beef, veal, and mutton kidney all belong to the source preparation. Beef kidney has the strongest mineral character, veal is gentler, and mutton sits between them. Whichever you choose, remove the hard white core thoroughly because five hours will soften meat, not gristle.
• •Use water, not stock, wine, or ale. This pouding builds its gravy inside the crust from meat juices, onion, parsley, seasoning, and the measured water. Changing the liquid changes the source dish rather than modernizing it.
• •A snug basin is better than an oversized one. Empty space demands more water, weakens the gravy, and leaves the crust unsupported. The filling should reach close to the top while preserving enough headroom for the lid.
• •Serve with plain boiled potatoes, buttered peas, or both. A firm red with good acidity suits the kidney, but dark ale is equally at home beside the English dish.

Advance Preparation

• •The beef and kidney can be trimmed and cut up to twelve hours ahead. Keep them covered and cold, with the onion and parsley stored separately, then season everything just before assembly.
• •The Suet Dumpling (No. 1166) can be prepared through the firm-dough stage a day ahead. Wrap it closely and keep it cold, then let it soften only until it rolls without cracking.
• •The fully cooked pouding can be chilled in its basin for up to two days. Cool it promptly, replace the outer cover, and reheat it over simmering water for sixty to seventy-five minutes, until the center reaches 165°F (74°C).

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 495g)