
Chef Juliette
Châteaubriand, Fillet Steak, Tournedos
One tenderloin heart, three classical portions: roast Châteaubriand for carving, bifteck de filet for one, tournedos two to a plate, all with braised endives and a red-wine pan jus.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1109, Tournedos à la Mexicaine, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Tournedos à la Mexicaine teaches the discipline of the hot pan: bronze the tenderloin without crowding, then set it over grilled mushroom and concentrated tomato fondue beneath a glossy fold of capsicum.
Tournedos à la Mexicaine (beef tenderloin on grilled mushroom with tomato fondue and capsicum) teaches heat management: the pan must be truly hot before the fillet touches it. A cool pan doesn't fry tournedos. It squeezes out their juice and steams them grey. Everything else is organized to protect that decisive moment.
The original entry assumed a brigade, with tomato fondue reducing at one station, mushrooms and capsicums under a salamander at another, and tournedos fried to order at the range. There is no stockpot or finished sauce from the saucier in this formula, so none belongs in the modernization. At home, the broiler is the salamander, a small saucepan holds the fondue, and one cook prepares the vegetables in sequence before frying the beef. Concurrent station work is brigade scaffolding and can go; the well-reduced fondue, separately grilled vegetables, and equal quantities of oil and butter beneath the beef are the dish and must stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
On the plate, each mushroom receives precisely one tablespoon of tomato fondue, then the burnished tournedos, then half a capsicum folded over the top. Prepare those supporting parts first. The one step that cannot wait is the beef: dry it thoroughly, season it just before cooking, and don't let it near the pan until the fat shimmers.
Tournedos à la Mexicaine belongs to the classical Parisian dining-room repertoire, where a quickly cooked fillet was identified by the composed garnish built around it. In this formula, à la Mexicaine means grilled mushroom, tomato cooked to fondue, and capsicum; the name records the French canon's vocabulary of association, not a claim that the preparation comes from a Mexican regional table. Its construction also records brigade practice, with several vegetable preparations brought together around beef fried at the last instant.
Quantity
4, about 5 oz (140 g) each
cut 1½ inches (4 cm) thick
Quantity
4, about 12 oz (340 g) total
stems removed
Quantity
2 large, about 12 oz (340 g) total
Quantity
1½ cups (355 ml / 300 g)
peeled, seeded, pressed, and roughly chopped
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g)
divided
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g)
Quantity
1¼ teaspoons (6 ml / 7 g)
divided
Quantity
½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| center-cut beef tenderloin medallionscut 1½ inches (4 cm) thick | 4, about 5 oz (140 g) each |
| large portobello mushroom capsstems removed | 4, about 12 oz (340 g) total |
| red bell capsicums | 2 large, about 12 oz (340 g) total |
| plum tomato fleshpeeled, seeded, pressed, and roughly chopped | 1½ cups (355 ml / 300 g) |
| unsalted butterdivided | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) |
| neutral high-heat oil | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) |
| fine sea saltdivided | 1¼ teaspoons (6 ml / 7 g) |
| freshly ground black pepper | ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g) |
Pat the beef very dry. If the medallions are uneven, tie a loop of kitchen twine around each circumference and draw it gently into a neat round without squeezing the meat. Leave them unseasoned while the vegetables cook; salt goes on just before frying so the surfaces remain dry.
Set an oven rack about 4 inches (10 cm) below the broiler and heat it fully. Put the whole capsicums on a foil-lined broiler pan and grill them for 12 to 15 minutes, turning as each face blackens and blisters. Transfer them to a bowl and cover with an inverted plate for 10 minutes, then peel away the loosened skin without rinsing off their flavor. Remove the stems and seeds, flatten the flesh, and divide each capsicum into two broad panels so every tournedos receives exactly half of one.
If using fresh tomatoes, peel them after a brief dip in boiling water, halve them crosswise, and squeeze out the seeds and clear juice. Press the flesh lightly in a sieve, reserving a spoonful of that juice, then chop it. Melt 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) of the butter in a small saucepan, add the tomato and ⅛ teaspoon of the salt, and cook uncovered over medium-low heat for 20 to 25 minutes. Stir more often as it thickens. Fondue here means the pulpy state produced by patient cooking, and it is ready when the tomato has deepened to brick red, a spoon drawn through leaves a clean path, and exactly ¼ cup (60 ml) remains. If it tightens before the raw tomato smell has gone, loosen it with the reserved juice and continue; if a watery ring remains, keep reducing. The clock doesn't decide it.
Return the broiler to high. Arrange the mushroom caps gill-side up on a wire rack set over the broiler pan and grill for 3 to 4 minutes, then turn and grill the rounded sides until browned and tender, another 3 to 4 minutes. Season them with ⅛ teaspoon of the salt and let any gathered liquid drain away. Set the caps gill-side up on warm plates. The brigade grilled these while the tournedos fried; doing them five minutes earlier changes nothing and gives the home cook two free hands.
Season the dried tournedos on every side with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and the pepper. Heat a heavy 12-inch (30 cm) skillet over medium-high heat for about 3 minutes. Add the oil and remaining 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) butter together, keeping the quantities equal as the source directs. As soon as the butter foams, subsides, and the fat shimmers, lay in the beef with at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) between the pieces. Fry without moving for 2½ to 3 minutes, turn once, and cook the second side for 2 to 3 minutes, briefly rolling the edges against the pan to color them. Pull the tournedos at 125 to 130°F (52 to 54°C) for medium-rare or 135 to 140°F (57 to 60°C) for medium. If the fat stops sizzling and liquid gathers during the first minute, lift the beef out immediately, pour away the watery liquid, reheat the pan, and return the tournedos in two batches. Ça se rattrape. Leaving them in a cool, crowded pan is what turns the fillets grey.
Rest the tournedos on a warm plate for 5 to 7 minutes while you rewarm the tomato fondue gently. Place one grilled mushroom gill-side up on each plate and spread precisely 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of fondue inside it. Remove the twine, set a tournedos over each mushroom, and fold one broad half-capsicum over the beef. Spoon any clear resting juices lightly around the stacks, keeping the layers visible. Serve at once. À table!
1 serving (about 285g)
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