Tournedos Alsacienne

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Four 3½-inch tartlet pans with removable bases
• •Rolling pin
• •Parchment and baking weights
• •3-inch round cutter
• •Heavy ridged cast-iron grill pan or outdoor grill
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Round heatproof serving platter

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the pâte brisée

   Make the pâte brisée (shortcrust pastry). Combine the 1⅓ cups flour with ¼ teaspoon of the salt, then rub in the 6 tablespoons cold butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with a few pea-sized pieces remaining. Add 3 tablespoons ice water and toss with a fork; add the final tablespoon only if dry flour remains. Press the dough together without kneading, flatten it into a disc, wrap, and chill for 30 minutes. The rest relaxes the dough, and the cold butter gives the tartlets their crisp layers.

   Stop mixing as soon as the dough holds when squeezed. A smooth, heavily worked dough looks tidy now and bakes tough later.
2. 2

   Bake the tartlets

   Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Divide the dough into four pieces and roll each on a lightly floured surface to about ⅛ inch thick. Line four 3½-inch tartlet pans, pressing the dough into the corners without stretching it; trim the rims, prick the bases, and chill for 10 minutes. Line with parchment, fill with baking weights, and bake for 14 to 16 minutes. Remove the weights and parchment, then bake for another 7 to 10 minutes, until the bases are dry and the shells are deep gold. If a crack appears when the weights come out, press in a scrap of raw dough and return the shell to the oven. Ça se rattrape. Cool in the pans for 5 minutes, then unmold carefully.

3. 3

   Braise the choucroute

   Taste the sauerkraut before cooking. If it is aggressively salty or acidic, rinse it briefly under cold water, then squeeze it very dry. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat, add the onion, and cook for 6 to 8 minutes until soft without browning. Add the sauerkraut and toss until every strand glistens. Pour in the wine, add the bay leaf, juniper, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper, then cover and hold at a gentle simmer for 20 minutes. Uncover and cook for 8 to 12 minutes more, stirring often, until no liquid remains on the pan floor. Remove the bay and juniper. If moisture still wells up when the cabbage is pressed, drain it in a sieve and return it to the pan for another minute. Wet choucroute destroys the tartlet; dry it without mercy.

4. 4

   Stage the garnish

   Use an even 3-inch round cutter to stamp four roundels from the lean ham, matching the source entry's precise presentation. Ten minutes before grilling, set the tartlet shells on a baking sheet and warm them for 5 minutes at 325°F (165°C). Keep the choucroute hot over the lowest heat. Arrange the warm shells in a crown on a heated round platter, divide the choucroute among them, and set one ham roundel over each portion. Hold the assembled garnish in the switched-off oven with the door slightly open while the beef cooks, no longer than 8 minutes, or the pastry will soften.

5. 5

   Grill the tournedos

   Heat a heavy ridged grill pan over high heat for 8 to 10 minutes. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter gently, skim off the foam, and pour the clear butter away from the milky sediment. Pat the tournedos completely dry, tie their edges with kitchen string if they need help holding a round shape, then season with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and ⅜ teaspoon pepper. Brush lightly with the clarified butter. Grill without moving for about 3 minutes on the first side and 2 to 3 minutes on the second, turning only once. Begin checking the center early: pull at 122 to 125°F (50 to 52°C) for medium-rare or 131 to 135°F (55 to 57°C) for medium, allowing for carryover during a 5-minute rest. For diners requiring the conservative safety standard, cook to 145°F (63°C) and rest for at least 3 minutes. If the pan was too cool and the beef begins to gray, lift it out, reheat the empty pan until fiercely hot, and return the meat just long enough to bronze. Ça se rattrape, provided the center has not overcooked.

6. 6

   Build the crown

   Remove the string and blot the underside of each rested tournedos so its juices do not soak the pastry. Set one tournedos squarely upon each ham-topped tartlet, preserving the source entry's order: tartlet, choucroute, ham, then beef. Brush the tops with the last trace of clarified butter and serve the crown immediately. No sauce is missing. The original calls for none, and adding one would bury the choucroute and soften the crust. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Ask the butcher for four center-cut tenderloin medallions of equal diameter and thickness. Matching pieces finish together, which matters when one cook must send the whole crown at once.
• •Choose refrigerated or jarred sauerkraut with cabbage, salt, and little else. Taste before rinsing; mild choucroute should only be drained and squeezed, because washing away all its acidity washes away Alsace with it.
• •Use a mild, lean cooked ham rather than a sweet glazed ham. The ham is a quiet savory layer between cabbage and beef, not the loudest voice on the plate.
• •No sauce is added because the source names none. The butter sheen on the tournedos and the moist, carefully drained choucroute provide enough richness while leaving the tartlet crisp.
• •Pour a dry Alsatian Pinot Noir if you want red wine with the beef, or the same dry Riesling used in the choucroute for a brighter pairing. Both understand the cabbage and ham.

Advance Preparation

• •The pâte brisée can be mixed and chilled up to one day ahead. Let it soften for a few minutes before rolling, but keep it cool enough that the butter remains firm.
• •Bake the tartlet shells up to one day ahead and store them airtight at room temperature. Recrisp them for 5 minutes at 325°F (165°C) before filling.
• •The choucroute can be braised up to two days ahead. Reheat it uncovered and cook away any liquid that has gathered before it reaches the tartlets.
• •Stamp the ham roundels several hours ahead and keep them covered in the refrigerator. Assemble only while the beef grill heats; filled tartlets do not improve by waiting.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 330g)