
Chef Juliette
John Dory (St. Pierre)
John Dory has the delicacy of sole and the firmness of turbot. A light flouring, a quick butter sauté, and nut-brown beurre noisette show exactly why looks never mattered.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1008, Haddock, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Haddock poché teaches the gentlest rule in fish cookery: let the liquor reach the boil, then let the fish cook away from it, served with egg sauce and plain potatoes.
Haddock poché, sauce aux œufs et pommes à l'anglaise (poached smoked haddock with egg sauce and plain-boiled potatoes), teaches one true thing: the liquor may boil before the fish enters, but it must not boil around the fish. Once covered, the pan leaves the heat and the trapped warmth cooks the haddock gently, leaving thick ivory flakes instead of dry fibres.
The original entry assumed a whole smoked fish, boned and trimmed, a lidded pan parked at the quiet side of the range, and separate hands to land the fish, sauce, and potatoes together. Here, the same 1½ pounds becomes four thick skin-on fillets because that is what a home fish counter usually offers; their flatter shape shortens the covered poach from about fifteen minutes to eight or twelve. Trimming a whole fish and coordinating extra hands are service scaffolding, so they go. The short poach, spoonfuls of cooking liquor, sauce aux œufs, and pommes à l'anglaise stay because they are the dish. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Cook the eggs and potatoes first, then poach the haddock and use its liquor to build the sauce. The moment that matters comes when the fish enters the boiling liquid: cover the pan and move it off the burner immediately. If bubbling returns, lift the pan farther from the heat. Ça se rattrape.
In French fish markets, haddock means smoked haddock; the fresh fish is églefin, a distinction English-speaking cooks often miss. The preparation belongs to the Channel-facing table, where smoking traditions crossed readily into French classical kitchens and the fish appeared at lunch with butter, sauce aux œufs, and pommes à l'anglaise. The English label on the potatoes describes plain cooking in water, not a separate garnish or elaborate sauce.
Quantity
4 fillets, 1½ pounds (680 g) total
pin bones removed
Quantity
4 cups (960 ml / 990 g) milk, or 4 cups (960 ml / 960 g) water
Quantity
2 pounds (900 g)
peeled, larger ones halved
Quantity
2
Quantity
2 teaspoons (10 ml / 12 g)
divided
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 16 g)
Quantity
⅛ teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.3 g)
Quantity
4 tablespoons (60 ml / 56 g)
softened or melted
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| skin-on smoked haddock filletspin bones removed | 4 fillets, 1½ pounds (680 g) total |
| whole milk or water, for poaching | 4 cups (960 ml / 990 g) milk, or 4 cups (960 ml / 960 g) water |
| medium waxy potatoespeeled, larger ones halved | 2 pounds (900 g) |
| large eggs | 2 |
| fine saltdivided | 2 teaspoons (10 ml / 12 g) |
| unsalted butter | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) |
| plain flour | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 16 g) |
| ground white pepper | ⅛ teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.3 g) |
| unsalted butter, for serving (optional)softened or melted | 4 tablespoons (60 ml / 56 g) |
Put the eggs in a small saucepan and cover them with cold water by 1 inch. Bring just to the boil, cover, remove from the heat, and leave for 10 minutes. Cool them under cold water, peel, and chop into small, distinct pieces. Keep them covered while you cook the rest of the meal.
Put the potatoes in a saucepan and cover them with cold water by 1 inch. Add 1½ teaspoons (7.5 ml / 9 g) of the salt and bring to a gentle boil. Cook for 18 to 22 minutes, until a small knife reaches the centre with almost no resistance. This is à l'anglaise, cooked plainly in water. Drain well, return the potatoes to the dry pan over low heat for 1 minute, then cover off the heat. If their edges begin to break, stop moving them; they will still eat beautifully.
Check the haddock once more for pin bones. Pour the milk or water into a wide lidded sauté pan and add ¼ teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1.5 g) salt. Bring it to the boil, then lower in the fillets skin-side down in a single layer. Cover immediately and move the pan to a cold burner. Leave for 8 to 12 minutes, depending on thickness, until the flesh is opaque, separates into broad flakes, and reaches 145°F (63°C) at its thickest point. If the liquor begins bubbling around the fish, remove the lid and pull the pan fully away from the heat. Ça se rattrape. If the centre remains translucent after 12 minutes, return the pan to the lowest heat only until the liquor quivers at the edge, then cover and move it off again.
Lift the haddock carefully onto a warmed platter, skin-side down, and spoon 3 tablespoons (45 ml / about 46 g) of cooking liquor over it. Cover loosely. Strain 1½ cups (360 ml / about 370 g) of the remaining liquor. Melt the 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook for 1 minute without letting it colour. Whisk in the strained liquor gradually, making each addition smooth before adding the next. Simmer gently for 3 to 4 minutes, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. If it lumps, strain it into a clean pan before adding the eggs; if it tightens too far, whisk in more cooking liquor 1 tablespoon (15 ml / about 15 g) at a time. Fold in the chopped eggs off the heat, add the white pepper, and taste before using the remaining salt because smoked haddock brings plenty of its own.
Transfer the potatoes to a warmed deep bowl or timbale. Bring the haddock to the table on its platter with the few spoonfuls of liquor around it, and serve the sauce aux œufs separately so each person can take as much as desired. Offer the softened or melted butter alongside, exactly as the original service allows. Generous sauce, plain potatoes, tender fish. Cooking well is not cooking fancy. À table!
1 serving (about 520g)
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