
Chef Graziella
Acquacotta Maremmana
The humblest soup in Tuscany, born from the wild Maremma where shepherds and charcoal burners transformed water, onions, stale bread, and an egg into sustenance. Proof that poverty teaches better than plenty.
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The humble lentil soup that Italians serve on New Year's Eve, each small disc a promise of prosperity. Simple, sustaining, and proof that the most modest ingredients can carry the weight of tradition.
Italians serve lentils at the stroke of midnight on New Year's Eve because the small, round legumes resemble coins. This is superstition, of course, but it is superstition rooted in wisdom: lentils are humble, nourishing, and satisfying in a way that no extravagant dish can match. After a night of celebration, this soup restores.
The foundation is soffritto, as it must be. Onion, carrot, and celery cooked slowly in good olive oil until they surrender their raw edges and become something silken. A whisper of tomato paste, not enough to make it a tomato soup, just enough to give depth and color. Garlic, restrained. Two cloves, sliced thin, cooked briefly. This is not the place for garlic to announce itself.
In Emilia-Romagna, where I grew up, lentil soup is served alongside cotechino, the rich pork sausage that is itself a New Year's tradition. The lentils absorb the fat from the sausage, and together they make a meal that sees you through a cold January night. The soup is excellent on its own. With cotechino, it becomes a celebration.
The association of lentils with New Year's dates to ancient Rome, where the legumes were given as gifts because their coin-like shape symbolized prosperity. Italian families have served lenticchie at the turn of the year for centuries, often paired with cotechino or zampone, the stuffed pig's trotter of Modena. The tradition holds that the more lentils you eat, the more fortune the coming year will bring.
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
1/4 cup, plus more for drizzling
Quantity
1 medium
diced fine
Quantity
1 medium
peeled and diced fine
Quantity
1
diced fine
Quantity
2
sliced thin
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1
Quantity
2 sprigs
Quantity
6 cups
homemade
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
2-3 inches
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small brown or green lentils | 1 pound |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/4 cup, plus more for drizzling |
| yellow oniondiced fine | 1 medium |
| carrotpeeled and diced fine | 1 medium |
| celery stalkdiced fine | 1 |
| garlic clovessliced thin | 2 |
| tomato paste | 2 tablespoons |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| fresh rosemary | 2 sprigs |
| chicken broth or meat brothhomemade | 6 cups |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| Parmigiano-Reggiano rind (optional) | 2-3 inches |
| crusty bread | for serving |
Spread the lentils on a plate and pick through them carefully. Remove any small stones, broken lentils, or debris. Rinse under cold water and drain. Unlike dried beans, lentils require no soaking. They cook quickly because they are small and their skins are thin. This is one of their virtues.
In a heavy pot, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are completely soft and the onion is pale gold at the edges, about 15 minutes. Flavor in Italian dishes builds up from the bottom. An imperfectly executed soffritto will impair the flavor of the entire soup. Give it time.
Add the sliced garlic and cook for one minute until fragrant. The garlic must not brown. Push the vegetables aside and add the tomato paste directly to the exposed pot bottom. Let it cook for two minutes, stirring constantly. This concentrates the tomato flavor and removes the raw, tinny taste. The paste will darken slightly and become fragrant.
Add the lentils and stir to coat them with the soffritto. Add the bay leaf, rosemary sprigs, and the cheese rind if using. Pour in the broth. The liquid should cover the lentils by about one inch. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to maintain a gentle bubble. Cook uncovered for 35 to 45 minutes, until the lentils are tender but hold their shape.
Some prefer a brothy soup, others like it thick. For a thicker texture, use a fork or potato masher to crush some of the lentils against the side of the pot. This releases starch and thickens the liquid naturally. Add water or additional broth if the soup becomes too thick. It will continue to thicken as it sits.
Remove the bay leaf, rosemary sprigs, and cheese rind. Season generously with salt and pepper. The lentils absorb salt, so taste again after a few minutes and adjust. Ladle into warm bowls and drizzle each serving with your best olive oil. Serve with crusty bread. The olive oil is not optional. It completes the dish.
1 serving (about 385g)
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