Zuppa di Farro alla Lucchese

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 6-quart Dutch oven or soup pot
• •Food mill or potato masher for beans
• •Large pot for cooking beans

Instructions

1. 1

   Cook the beans

   Drain the soaked beans and place them in a pot with fresh cold water to cover by three inches. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until tender but not falling apart, about 45 minutes to one hour. The beans should hold their shape when pressed. Drain, reserving two cups of the cooking liquid. Set aside half the beans. Pass the remaining half through a food mill or mash with a fork until you have a rough puree. This will thicken the soup.

   Never add salt to the beans until they are fully cooked. Salt toughens the skins and extends the cooking time beyond reason.
2. 2

   Build the soffritto

   In a heavy pot, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until it renders its fat and begins to crisp at the edges, about 5 minutes. Add the onion, carrot, and celery. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are completely soft and the onion turns pale gold, about 15 minutes. FLAVOR, IN ITALIAN DISHES, builds up from the bottom. Do not rush this step.

3. 3

   Add aromatics and tomatoes

   Add the crushed garlic, rosemary sprig, and sage leaves. Stir for one minute until fragrant. Add the crushed tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes lose their raw edge and the liquid reduces slightly, about 10 minutes. Remove and discard the garlic cloves. They have given what they have to give.

4. 4

   Add farro and broth

   Add the rinsed farro to the pot and stir to coat with the soffritto. Pour in the chicken broth and add the Parmigiano rind. Bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle bubble and cook, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until the farro is tender but retains a pleasant chew, about 35 to 40 minutes.

   Semi-pearled farro cooks faster than whole farro and releases enough starch to give body to the soup. Whole farro requires soaking and longer cooking. Know which you have.
5. 5

   Add the beans

   Stir in the pureed beans and the reserved bean cooking liquid. The soup should thicken noticeably. Add the whole beans. Simmer for another 10 minutes to marry the flavors. The consistency should be thick, more stew than broth. If too thick, add a splash of broth. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the rosemary sprig, sage leaves, and cheese rind before serving.

6. 6

   Serve properly

   Ladle into warm bowls. Drizzle each serving generously with your finest olive oil. The oil is not decoration. It completes the dish. Pass grated Parmigiano-Reggiano at the table for those who want it. Like most Tuscan soups, this improves overnight. Reheat gently, adding water as needed.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out farro from the Garfagnana if you can find it. The grain grown in that valley has a particular nuttiness that common spelt cannot replicate. Specialty Italian grocers sometimes carry it.
• •The pancetta is traditional but not essential. For a meatless version, omit it and increase the olive oil slightly. The soup will still satisfy.
• •Pass this soup through a food mill if you prefer a smoother consistency. The old women of Lucca made it both ways, depending on the day and the appetite.
• •Store leftover soup knowing it will thicken considerably as the farro continues to absorb liquid. Add water or broth when reheating. Do not add more than needed. You want soup, not porridge.

Advance Preparation

• •Soak beans overnight. There is no substitute for this step. Quick-soak methods produce inferior texture.
• •The soup improves overnight in the refrigerator as the flavors deepen and the farro softens further. Many prefer it the second day.
• •The completed soup keeps refrigerated for four days. It does not freeze well. The farro turns mushy upon thawing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 380g)