Yokosuka Kaigun Karē (横須賀海軍カレー, navy curry)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy pot or donabe-style casserole with a steady bottom
• •Small skillet for the roux
• •Wooden spoon or heatproof spatula
• •Deep oval curry plates

Instructions

1. 1

   Season the beef

   Pat the beef dry, then season it with half the salt and the pepper. Dry meat browns instead of steaming in its own moisture, and that first browning gives the curry a base the roux can hold onto.

2. 2

   Brown the beef

   Warm 1 tablespoon oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Brown the beef in a single layer, turning until the edges are well colored, then lift it to a plate. Don't crowd the pot. Pale meat makes a pale-tasting curry, and this dish has nowhere to hide.

3. 3

   Cook the onions

   Add the remaining oil and the onions to the same pot. Cook slowly, stirring often, until the onions soften, shrink, and turn light brown at the edges, about 12 minutes. This is not a race. The onion's sweetness is what rounds the curry powder.

4. 4

   Simmer the vegetables

   Return the beef to the pot with the carrots, potatoes, stock or water, bay leaf, and remaining salt. Bring it just to a boil, skim any foam, then lower the heat to a quiet simmer for 35 to 40 minutes, until the beef is nearly tender. Skimming keeps the sauce clean, and gentle simmering keeps the potatoes from breaking into grit.

   If the potatoes are tender before the beef is ready, lift them out and return them later. A good curry has soft vegetables, not a pot of mashed corners.
5. 5

   Make the roux

   In a small pan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until the paste turns beige and smells nutty, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the curry powder and tomato paste, then cook 1 minute more. The flour needs time to lose its raw taste, while the curry powder needs only warmth to wake it. Give it fire and it turns bitter.

6. 6

   Loosen the roux

   Ladle a little hot broth from the pot into the roux and stir until smooth. Add two more ladles, one at a time. This loosens the paste before it meets the pot, so you get a smooth curry instead of little flour islands that no amount of wishing will fix.

7. 7

   Thicken the curry

   Stir the loosened roux into the pot. Add the Worcestershire sauce and soy sauce, then simmer gently for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring often, until the sauce turns glossy and coats a spoon. Taste. If it feels sharp, add the sugar. If it feels flat, add a pinch of salt, not more curry powder.

8. 8

   Serve with rice

   Mound hot short-grain rice on one side of each deep oval plate and spoon the curry beside it, letting some sauce lean into the rice. Serve with a small salad and a glass of milk. The plate should look fed, not flooded. Leave it room.

Chef Tips

• •Use Japanese curry powder if you can. It is usually softer and rounder than many British-style blends, which suits this navy curry better than a harsh, raw spice edge.
• •Beef chuck is right here because it has enough connective tissue to soften during the simmer. A lean steak cut looks tidy and eats dry, which is a poor trade.
• •Cut the potatoes larger than the carrots. Potatoes soften faster and crumble if bullied, while carrots need time. Different cuts make one pot finish together.
• •Curry rice keeps well, but rice does not like sitting under sauce. Store them separately and spoon the curry over fresh or reheated rice.

Advance Preparation

• •The curry can be made one day ahead and refrigerated. It thickens as it rests, so loosen it with a splash of water or stock while reheating gently.
• •Cook the rice close to serving time if you can. Curry forgives waiting, but rice is proud and becomes dull when left too long.
• •The vegetables can be cut several hours ahead. Keep potatoes covered in cold water so they don't discolor, then drain well before adding them.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 760g)