
Chef Takumi
Aspara-bacon (アスパラベーコン, bacon-wrapped asparagus)
Aspara-bacon is late-spring asparagus treated with common sense: thin bacon, hot grill, and a last brush of shōyu and mirin so the spear stays sweet while the wrap crisps.
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Kawa is not a trick of sauce. It is chicken skin, salt, and patient heat, grilled until the fat leaves and the surface becomes crisp under your teeth.
Chicken skin makes some cooks nervous. I understand it. Raw, it looks like something the butcher forgot to tidy away. On the grill, treated properly, it becomes one of yakitori's plainest pleasures: crisp edges, soft pockets, salt, and the good smell of chicken fat meeting charcoal.
The one detail that decides kawa is patience. If the heat is too fierce, the outside burns before the fat has time to render. Grill it more slowly, turning often, and the skin tightens, shrinks, and bastes itself as the fat drips away. You are not trying to hide it under tare. For kawa shio, salted chicken skin, the skin must taste like itself.
Pleat the strips tightly on the skewer, almost like folding cloth. That gives the skin height, protects it from drying into brittle scraps, and makes small ridges that crisp one by one. This is honmono yakitori at home: not difficult, only unfamiliar, and very honest about what is in front of you.
Yakitori became widely associated with urban drinking stalls in the late Meiji and Taisho periods, when chicken offcuts could be skewered, grilled, and sold cheaply with sake. After World War II, yatai stalls and small yakitori shops helped turn parts such as kawa, sunagimo, and rebaa into familiar counter food rather than waste. Kawa is commonly ordered shio, with salt, because its appeal is the rendered fat and crisp surface, not a sweet glaze.
Quantity
450g
trimmed of large fat lumps, cut into long strips
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more for finishing
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| chicken skintrimmed of large fat lumps, cut into long strips | 450g |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more for finishing |
| sake | 1 tablespoon |
| freshly ground white pepper (optional) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| lemon wedges (optional) | to serve |
| shichimi tōgarashi (optional) | to serve |
Lay the chicken skin flat and trim away only the thick, loose knobs of fat. Leave the thin layer attached to the skin, because that is what renders over the fire and keeps the kawa from turning dry. Cut the skin into strips about 2.5 cm wide and 10 to 12 cm long.
Toss the strips with the sake, salt, and white pepper if using. Let them stand for 15 minutes, then pat them dry. The sake softens the chicken smell, the salt starts seasoning the folds, and drying the surface helps it grill instead of steaming in its own moisture.
Thread each strip onto a skewer in tight pleats, piercing every fold so the skin sits compact and slightly raised. Do not stretch it flat. The folds give the fat somewhere to render from and create small ridges that crisp without burning away.
Prepare a charcoal grill for medium heat, with one cooler area to the side. If using a broiler, set the rack about 15 cm from the heat and line a tray below to catch fat. Kawa needs steady heat more than violence, because the fat must leave before the outside darkens.
Grill the skewers for 14 to 18 minutes, turning every minute or two. Move them away from flare-ups as fat drips. The skin should shrink, tighten, and turn golden in patches, with crisp edges and still a little chew at the center folds.
While the skewers are still hot from the grill, finish with a small pinch of salt and serve at once with lemon if you like. Salt lands cleanly on the rendered surface, which is why kawa shio needs no tare. Nothing hidden.
1 serving (about 32g)
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