
Chef Joost
Andijviestamppot
The Dutch trick is not cooking the andijvie at all: let the hot potatoes do the work, so the greens soften, stay bright, and keep their clean bitter bite.
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Vijfschaft counts the winter larder on one hand: potatoes, carrots, onions, apples, and brown beans, the Utrecht supper that turns five plain things into one generous pan.
The Dutch larder has always liked arithmetic. Vijfschaft is a dish that counts on its fingers, five things from the winter store cupboard, and then asks you what else you thought a meal needed. Potato, carrot, onion, apple, brown beans. That is the whole lecture, and a better lecture than many I heard at Leiden.
The name already tells you, because Utrecht dishes often have the politeness to be blunt. Vijf is five. Schaft is a meal, the food of schafttijd, the worker's eating break. Vijfschaft means five things made into supper, not as a stunt, but because late autumn once meant looking at the cellar and telling the truth. But let me tell you a secret: the apple is the clever one. Without it, you have a worthy pot of roots and beans. With it, the whole pan wakes up, sweet, tart, and just sharp enough to remind the brown beans they are not alone.
This belongs to Utrecht, not to some flattened idea of Dutch food. The province sits there quietly between louder kitchens, Holland shouting cheese and sea fish on one side, the eastern farms steady with rye and pork on the other. Vijfschaft is its own answer: urban enough for a weeknight pan, rural enough to taste of storage bins and bean crocks. History and cookery, they cannot be separated, especially when the history is hungry.
Cook it simply. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple. The onions need a little time to go sweet, the potatoes and carrots need only enough liquid to soften, and the apples and beans go in late so they keep their shape. Do not beat it into a smooth stamppot. Break a few potato edges to thicken the juices, let the rest remain itself, and bring the pan to the table as it is.
Vijfschaft is a regional dish of Utrecht and its province, often associated with Sint Maarten on 11 November, the feast of St Martin, patron of Utrecht. Its five named ingredients are all post-harvest storage foods: potatoes and winter carrots from the ground, onions from the loft, apples from the cool room, and brown beans from the crock or sack. The word schaft survives in Dutch schafttijd, the work break for eating, so the title is both a count and a social clue: five things made into the worker's meal.
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 large
thinly sliced
Quantity
800g
peeled and cut into 3cm chunks
Quantity
500g
scrubbed and cut into thick half-moons
Quantity
300ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
2
peeled, cored and cut into chunks
Quantity
500g drained weight
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| neutral oil | 2 tablespoons |
| yellow onionsthinly sliced | 2 large |
| potatoespeeled and cut into 3cm chunks | 800g |
| winter carrotsscrubbed and cut into thick half-moons | 500g |
| water or reserved bean cooking liquid | 300ml |
| fine salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| tart apples, such as Goudreinet, Belle de Boskoop, or Elstarpeeled, cored and cut into chunks | 2 |
| cooked brown beans (bruine bonen) | 500g drained weight |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
Warm the oil in a heavy braadpan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the sliced onions with a pinch of the salt and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until they are glossy, soft, and beginning to smell sweet. Do not brown them hard; this dish wants the onion's sweetness, not its bitterness.
Add the potatoes and carrots, then pour in the water or bean cooking liquid and add the remaining salt. The liquid should come only partway up the vegetables. If it covers them, you are making soup, and Vijfschaft is too practical for that. Cover the pan and simmer gently for 15 minutes.
Add the apple chunks and fold them through carefully. Cover again and cook for 7 to 8 minutes, until the potatoes are nearly tender and the apple has softened at the edges but has not vanished. The apple is not decoration; it is the little sour bell that keeps the beans and roots lively.
Stir in the cooked brown beans, gently enough that they stay mostly whole. Cover and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes more, until the beans are hot through and the potatoes yield easily to a fork. If the pan looks dry, add a small splash of water. If it looks wet, leave the lid ajar for a few minutes.
Press a few potato pieces against the side of the pan with your spoon, then stir them back through to thicken the glossy cooking juices. Taste for salt and black pepper. Let the pan stand off the heat for 5 minutes before serving in shallow bowls, with a kuiltje, a little hollow, for the bean-rich juices.
1 serving (about 630g)
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