Velykodni Baby (великодні баби, Easter babka)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Two tall cylindrical tins, 12 to 14cm wide and 14 to 16cm high
• •Stand mixer with dough hook or strong hands
• •Pastry brush
• •Wire cooling rack

Instructions

1. 1

   Wake the yeast

   Stir the warm milk with the yeast, 1 tablespoon of the sugar, and 2 tablespoons of the flour. Leave it until the surface is foamy and the smell turns creamy and bready. If it sits there flat and sulking, start again; Easter is no time to argue with dead yeast.

   The milk should feel warm to your finger, not hot. Heat kills yeast faster than cold ever will.
2. 2

   Soak the raisins

   Put the raisins in a small bowl with the rum, brandy, or strong black tea. They should plump and soften while the dough begins. Drain them well before adding, because wet fruit tears soft dough.

3. 3

   Mix the dough

   Whisk the yolks, whole eggs, remaining sugar, salt, citrus zests, and vanilla until the mixture lightens and falls from the whisk in a thick ribbon. Add the yeast mixture and most of the flour, then knead until the dough gathers. Work in the soft butter a spoonful at a time. It will look messy before it becomes smooth; keep going until it stretches instead of breaking.

   This is a rich dough, so it starts sticky. Add flour only if it puddles and refuses to hold shape; too much flour steals the tenderness.
4. 4

   Fold in fruit

   Spread the dough slightly, scatter over the drained raisins, and fold them in gently with your hands. You want the fruit tucked through the dough, not crushed into it. Oil a bowl lightly with sunflower oil, set the dough inside, cover, and leave it until doubled and softly swollen.

5. 5

   Shape in tins

   Oil and flour two tall cylindrical tins, about 12 to 14cm wide and 14 to 16cm high. Divide the dough in two, shape each piece into a smooth round, and place one in each tin. The dough should fill only halfway. Cover and wait until it rises close to the rim and trembles a little when you move the tin.

   This rise is the one that matters. Under-proved dough splits hard in the oven; over-proved dough sighs and sinks. Look for a soft dome, not a balloon.
6. 6

   Bake the towers

   Brush the tops gently with the yolk and milk. Bake at 180C until the domes are deep gold, the sides pull slightly from the tins, and the bread sounds hollow when tapped. If the tops color too quickly, lay a loose sheet of foil over them. Let them rest in the tins for 10 minutes, then turn out carefully and cool upright.

7. 7

   Glaze while warm

   Stir the icing sugar with enough lemon juice or warm milk to make a thick pourable glaze. Spoon it over the still-warm domes so it runs down the sides in slow white ribbons. Add candied citrus peel if you like. Let the glaze set before slicing, if your household has that kind of discipline.

Chef Tips

• •Room-temperature eggs matter here. Cold eggs make the butter seize and the dough sulk.
• •Tall coffee tins or panettone moulds work well if you don't own baba tins. Line the base with baking paper and oil the sides generously.
• •Black tea is the quiet option for soaking raisins if you don't use alcohol. It gives depth without announcing itself.
• •The dough forgives a slow rise but not a rushed bake. If the center is underdone, the tall loaf will collapse as it cools.
• •Slice with a serrated knife once fully cool. On Easter morning I still tear the first piece by hand, because my hands remember before my manners do.

Advance Preparation

• •The raisins can be soaked the night before, then drained before mixing.
• •The baked babkas keep well for 2 days wrapped loosely once the glaze sets.
• •For Easter morning, bake the day before and glaze once cooled to just warm; the crumb settles beautifully overnight.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 90g)