Chef Graziella
Babà al Rum Napoletano
The yeast-risen sponge that Naples claimed from Poland and perfected. Baked to a burnished gold, then drowned in rum syrup until it weeps with every bite.
Culinary Explorer
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Torta di Ricotta Romana
Created by
Rome's answer to cheesecake, made the way Roman home cooks have made it for generations: fresh ricotta, lemon, honey, and nothing more than the dish requires.
Desserts
Italian, Roman
Special Occasion
Make Ahead
20 min
Active Time
50 min cook•1 hr 10 min total
Yield8 servings
Americans think they invented cheesecake. They did not. Romans were making cakes from fresh cheese when Manhattan was still forest. The difference between what Romans make and what Americans call cheesecake is the difference between a conversation and a shout. This cake does not announce itself. It suggests. It offers a texture that is grainy where cream cheese is dense, a sweetness that whispers where American cheesecake bellows.
The ricotta must be fresh, preferably from a shop that makes it daily. The tubs sold in supermarkets contain stabilizers and excess moisture that will sabotage your cake. If you cannot find proper ricotta, drain the commercial product overnight. This is not optional. Wet ricotta produces a weeping cake, and a weeping cake is a failure.
Honey matters here. Romans have sweetened their ricotta desserts with honey since antiquity. Sugar came later. The honey provides a floral depth that sugar alone cannot achieve. Use a mild variety: acacia or wildflower. Strong honey, like chestnut or buckwheat, overwhelms the delicate ricotta.
What you keep out is as significant as what you put in. There is no crust. There is no sour cream topping. There are no elaborate decorations. This cake trusts its ingredients to speak without interruption.
Fresh cheese cakes sweetened with honey appear in the writings of Cato the Elder, who recorded recipes for placenta and libuma in the 2nd century BC. Roman bakers offered these cakes at temples and served them at wedding feasts. The modern torta di ricotta is their direct descendant, simplified over centuries but unchanged in spirit: fresh cheese, honey, and the restraint to add nothing more.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
fresh whole-milk ricotta
Quantity
2 pounds
drained overnight
large eggs
Quantity
4
at room temperature
granulated sugar
Quantity
3/4 cup
mild honey
Quantity
3 tablespoons
lemon zest
Quantity
from 2 lemons
finely grated
fresh lemon juice
Quantity
2 tablespoons
semolina flour
Quantity
1/4 cup
fine sea salt
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
pure vanilla extract
Quantity
1 teaspoon
butter
Quantity
for the pan
flour
Quantity
for the pan
confectioners' sugar (optional)
Quantity
for dusting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh whole-milk ricottadrained overnight | 2 pounds |
| large eggsat room temperature | 4 |
| granulated sugar | 3/4 cup |
| mild honey | 3 tablespoons |
| lemon zestfinely grated | from 2 lemons |
| fresh lemon juice | 2 tablespoons |
| semolina flour | 1/4 cup |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| pure vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| butter | for the pan |
| flour | for the pan |
| confectioners' sugar (optional) | for dusting |
Equipment Needed
- •9-inch springform pan
- •Fine-mesh strainer
- •Cheesecloth or butter muslin
- •Large mixing bowl
- •Whisk
Instructions
- 1
Drain the ricotta
This step happens the night before. Line a fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a bowl. Spoon the ricotta into the strainer, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight. The ricotta will release a surprising amount of liquid. This liquid is the enemy of proper texture. Without this step, your cake will weep and turn sodden. There is no shortcut.
If you begin with wet ricotta, you will end with a wet cake. The draining cannot be rushed. Twelve hours minimum. - 2
Prepare the pan
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 325°F. Butter a 9-inch springform pan thoroughly, then dust with flour, tapping out the excess. The low temperature is deliberate. High heat causes ricotta to curdle and separate. Patience creates the proper texture.
- 3
Beat the eggs and sugar
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the granulated sugar until the mixture is pale and slightly thickened, about 2 minutes by hand. Add the honey and whisk until incorporated. The honey adds a floral sweetness that plain sugar cannot provide. This is not decoration. It is essential to the Roman character of the cake.
- 4
Add the ricotta
Transfer the drained ricotta to the bowl. The ricotta should feel noticeably drier, almost crumbly. Whisk vigorously until the mixture is smooth, breaking up any lumps. Some small curds may remain. This is acceptable. The texture should be grainier than American cheesecake. This is a feature, not a flaw.
- 5
Add the flavorings
Add the lemon zest, lemon juice, semolina, salt, and vanilla. Whisk until everything is evenly distributed. The semolina absorbs excess moisture during baking and provides structure without heaviness. Taste the batter. It should be fragrant with lemon and delicately sweet.
Grate only the yellow part of the lemon zest. The white pith beneath is bitter and will ruin the clean citrus flavor you are building. - 6
Bake the cake
Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top with a spatula. Bake until the cake is set around the edges but still has a slight wobble in the center when gently shaken, 45 to 50 minutes. The top should be pale gold, not brown. A toothpick inserted two inches from the edge should come out clean. The center firms as it cools.
- 7
Cool completely
Turn off the oven and crack the door open. Let the cake cool in the oven for 30 minutes. This gradual cooling prevents the surface from cracking. Remove to a wire rack and cool completely in the pan, at least 2 hours. Resist the temptation to unmold it early. The cake is fragile when warm.
- 8
Unmold and serve
Run a thin knife around the edge of the pan and release the springform ring. Transfer the cake to a serving plate. Dust lightly with confectioners' sugar if you wish, though it is not traditional. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled. The flavor is cleaner when cold, the texture more pleasant at room temperature. You decide.
Chef Tips
- •Seek out ricotta from an Italian market or cheese shop if possible. Fresh ricotta, made that morning, transforms this cake from pleasant to extraordinary. The difference is unmistakable.
- •If your only option is supermarket ricotta, drain it for a full 24 hours, not just overnight. Press it gently with a weight for the last few hours. You are removing the water they added to increase the package weight.
- •The cake slices more cleanly after refrigerating overnight. Make it a day ahead for a dinner party. Let it sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving to allow the flavors to open.
- •Romans sometimes add a handful of raisins soaked in rum or a tablespoon of candied citron. These are acceptable variations with historical precedent. Chocolate chips are not.
Advance Preparation
- •The ricotta must be drained overnight. Begin this step the evening before you plan to bake.
- •The finished cake keeps, covered and refrigerated, for up to four days. The texture actually improves on the second day.
- •This cake does not freeze well. The ricotta becomes grainy and weeps upon thawing. Make it fresh.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 140g)
Calories
375 calories
Total Fat
19 g
Saturated Fat
11 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
8 g
Cholesterol
155 mg
Sodium
275 mg
Total Carbohydrates
36 g
Dietary Fiber
0 g
Sugars
28 g
Protein
17 g
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