Cassata Gelata

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •9-inch round cake pan for the sponge
• •2-quart dome mold, loaf pan, or deep cake pan for freezing
• •Electric mixer
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Cheesecloth for draining ricotta
• •Large rubber spatula

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the pan di Spagna

   Heat oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter and flour a 9-inch round cake pan, tapping out excess. In a large bowl set over barely simmering water, whisk the eggs and sugar until the mixture is warm to the touch, about 110°F. Remove from heat. Beat with an electric mixer on high speed until tripled in volume and pale yellow, thick enough to leave a ribbon when the beaters are lifted. This takes 8 to 10 minutes. Do not rush it.

   The ribbon stage is essential. When you lift the beaters, the batter should fall back in a thick ribbon that holds its shape on the surface for several seconds before dissolving. Underbeaten eggs produce a dense, sad cake.
2. 2

   Fold in the flour

   Sift the flour and salt over the beaten eggs in three additions, folding gently with a large rubber spatula after each. Add the vanilla with the final addition. Fold until no streaks of flour remain, but stop the moment you achieve this. Overfolding deflates the batter. Pour into the prepared pan and smooth the top.

3. 3

   Bake the sponge

   Bake until the cake springs back when touched lightly in the center and a toothpick comes out clean, 22 to 25 minutes. The edges will pull slightly from the pan. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack and cool completely. The cake can be wrapped tightly and held at room temperature overnight.

4. 4

   Drain the ricotta properly

   The ricotta must be drained of excess moisture. Line a fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a bowl. Add the ricotta, cover, and refrigerate overnight. The next day, discard the liquid. Press the ricotta through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl, or process it briefly in a food processor until perfectly smooth. Grainy ricotta ruins the texture.

   Sheep's milk ricotta is denser than cow's milk and drains less liquid, but the step remains essential. Wet ricotta freezes into ice crystals and creates an unpleasant texture.
5. 5

   Make the filling base

   Add the superfine sugar to the smooth ricotta and beat until completely dissolved and the mixture is creamy, about 2 minutes. Beat in the 1/3 cup maraschino liqueur. In a separate cold bowl, whip the heavy cream to soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the ricotta mixture in two additions, using the same gentle folding motion you used for the cake.

6. 6

   Add the treasures

   Fold in the candied orange peel, candied citron, chopped pistachios, and chopped chocolate. Distribute them evenly throughout. The mixture should look like a frozen mosaic waiting to happen. Taste it. Adjust the sugar if needed, remembering that freezing dulls sweetness.

7. 7

   Line the mold

   Line a 2-quart dome mold, loaf pan, or deep round cake pan with plastic wrap, leaving generous overhang on all sides. Slice the cooled sponge cake horizontally into two or three thin layers, depending on its height. Combine the remaining 1/4 cup maraschino with the 2 tablespoons water. Brush the cake slices generously with this syrup.

8. 8

   Assemble the cassata

   Line the bottom and sides of the mold with the moistened cake slices, cutting and piecing as needed to cover completely. Leave no gaps. The cake should extend slightly above the rim. Pour the ricotta filling into the lined mold, pressing gently to eliminate air pockets. Top with remaining cake slices to seal. Fold the plastic wrap over the top.

9. 9

   Freeze until solid

   Freeze for at least 8 hours, or overnight. The cassata must freeze completely solid. You can hold it frozen for up to one week, well wrapped. Longer than that risks freezer burn dulling the flavors.

10. 10

    Unmold and serve

    Transfer the cassata to the refrigerator 30 minutes before serving. This brief tempering makes slicing easier and improves the texture. Invert onto a serving plate and peel away the plastic wrap. The dome should release cleanly. Garnish with additional chopped pistachios and pieces of candied fruit if you wish. Slice with a sharp knife dipped in hot water between cuts.

Chef Tips

• •Sheep's milk ricotta is available at Italian specialty stores and increasingly at good cheese shops. If you cannot find it, do not make a compromised version. Make something else and wait until you can source the proper ingredient.
• •Bronte pistachios from Sicily have a vivid green color and sweet, almost floral flavor. Iranian pistachios are acceptable. American pistachios, often dyed red, are not.
• •Quality candied citrus peel is firm but tender, not rubbery or crystallized solid. Italian grocers carry proper candied fruit, or you can make your own with several days' notice.
• •The maraschino liqueur is traditional. Kirsch or even a splash of rum can substitute, but the flavor profile shifts. Luxardo maraschino is widely available and correct.

Advance Preparation

• •The pan di Spagna can be baked two days ahead, wrapped tightly at room temperature.
• •The ricotta must drain overnight, so begin the day before assembly.
• •The assembled cassata must freeze at least 8 hours and holds well for up to one week.
• •This is the ideal make-ahead dessert for entertaining. All the work happens the day before.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 200g)