
Chef Graziella
Bonet Piemontese
The chocolate custard of Piedmont, dense with cocoa and crushed amaretti, crowned with bitter caramel. This is the dessert your Torinese grandmother made for feast days.
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The yeast-risen sponge that Naples claimed from Poland and perfected. Baked to a burnished gold, then drowned in rum syrup until it weeps with every bite.
The babà is not Neapolitan by birth, but it became Neapolitan by adoption, and in Naples it found its true home. A Polish king's accident became a French pastry, and French pastry became a Neapolitan obsession. The pasticcerie of Naples have been making babà for over two centuries, and they guard their methods with the same fierce pride they bring to everything worth eating.
This is a yeasted dough, enriched with eggs and butter until it becomes almost a batter. You beat it until your arm aches, or until your stand mixer protests. The gluten must develop fully before you add the butter, and then you beat it again. There are no shortcuts. The dough should be sticky, elastic, and alive with yeast.
The soaking is everything. A dry babà is a failure. The cake must drink the rum syrup until it can hold no more, until pressing it releases a stream of sweet, boozy liquid. Neapolitans test this by squeezing: if syrup runs down your wrist, it is ready. If not, soak it longer.
What you keep out matters here as much as what you put in. No vanilla. No citrus zest in the cake. The rum speaks alone, and it speaks clearly.
King Stanisław Leszczyński of Poland, exiled to Lorraine in the 1730s, reportedly dipped his dry kugelhopf in rum and declared it a revelation, naming it after Ali Baba. French pastry chefs refined the concept, and Neapolitan bakers encountered it through the Bourbon court's French connections. By the mid-19th century, the babà had become so thoroughly Neapolitan that its foreign origins were nearly forgotten.
Quantity
250g
Quantity
7g
Quantity
30g
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
4
at room temperature
Quantity
125g
softened but not melted
Quantity
500g
Quantity
750ml
Quantity
200ml
Quantity
150g
warmed and strained
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bread flour or Italian 00 flour | 250g |
| active dry yeast | 7g |
| granulated sugar | 30g |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| large eggsat room temperature | 4 |
| unsalted buttersoftened but not melted | 125g |
| granulated sugar | 500g |
| water | 750ml |
| dark rum | 200ml |
| apricot jam (optional)warmed and strained | 150g |
| unsweetened whipped cream (optional) | for serving |
Warm 60ml of water to 40°C, no hotter. Sprinkle the yeast over the surface and add a pinch of the measured sugar. Let it stand for 10 minutes. The yeast should foam and smell like bread. If it does not foam, your yeast is dead. Discard it and begin again with fresh yeast.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, remaining sugar, and salt. Add the eggs and the activated yeast. Beat on medium speed for 10 minutes. The dough will be very sticky and will climb the paddle. This is correct. It should become smooth, elastic, and pull away from the sides of the bowl in long, stretchy strands.
With the mixer running on medium-low, add the softened butter one tablespoon at a time. Wait until each addition is fully absorbed before adding the next. The dough will look curdled and slippery at first. Continue beating for another 5 minutes after all butter is added. The dough should become smooth, very glossy, and extremely elastic. When you lift the paddle, the dough should fall in long ribbons.
Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Let the dough rise in a warm place until it has doubled in volume, about 1 hour and 30 minutes. The dough is ready when a finger pressed into the surface leaves an indentation that slowly springs back.
Generously butter 12 individual babà molds or dariole molds, approximately 60ml capacity each. Deflate the dough gently with a spatula. Using a piping bag or two spoons, fill each mold one-third full. The dough is too sticky to handle with your hands. Do not attempt it.
Place the filled molds on a baking sheet. Cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel. Let rise until the dough reaches just below the rim of the molds, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Do not let it rise above the rim or it will collapse in the oven.
Heat your oven to 190°C. Bake the babà for 20 to 25 minutes, until they are a deep burnished gold and spring back when pressed gently. They must be well-colored. A pale babà will not absorb the syrup properly because the crust is not fully set. Unmold immediately onto a wire rack.
While the babà bake, combine the sugar and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar completely. Remove from heat and let cool to about 60°C, warm but not hot. Stir in the rum. The syrup should be warm, not boiling. Hot syrup will destroy the delicate crumb.
This is the critical step. Place the warm babà in a shallow baking dish. Pour the warm syrup over them. Let them soak, turning occasionally with a slotted spoon, for at least 15 minutes. Press each one gently with your fingers. Syrup should ooze out immediately. If it does not, continue soaking. The babà must be saturated completely. Neapolitans say a properly soaked babà should weep rum when you lift it.
Lift the soaked babà carefully to a serving plate. If desired, brush with warm strained apricot jam for a glossy finish. Serve within a few hours, at room temperature, with a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream. The cream cuts the sweetness and provides contrast. Do not refrigerate. Cold ruins the texture.
1 serving (about 115g)
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