
Chef Dimitra
Bourdeto Kerkyra (Μπουρδέτο Κέρκυρας)
Corfu's bourdeto is a red, pepper-hot fish braise, traditionally made with scorpionfish, potatoes, tomato, and enough heat to announce the Ionian table.
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Thessaloniki's weeknight red chicken, browned hard first, then simmered with tomato, wine and cinnamon until the sauce turns glossy enough for hilopites.
Thessaloniki Politiko kotopoulo kokkinisto is the red chicken of the weekday table: bone-in pieces, onion, tomato, wine, and a quiet stick of cinnamon. It is not a plain tomato stew. The spice gives it its Constantinopolitan address, and the bone gives the sauce its body.
One method decides the whole pot. Brown the chicken properly, in batches, until the pot has dark gold marks and the oil smells roasted. Then the tomato has something to hold. Skip that and the sauce tastes flat, like tomato poured over boiled meat. Good olive oil, and patience.
I serve it with hilopites when I want the northern table, with rice when the day has been long, and with fried potatoes when nobody wants to pretend restraint. The region is the dish's surname, so this is the Thessaloniki-Politiko line of kokkinisto, cinnamon-scented and practical, the kind of food that keeps a house fed on a Tuesday.
Kokkinisto means "reddened" and names a Greek cooking method: meat browned first, then simmered in tomato until the sauce darkens. In Thessaloniki's Politiki kitchens, shaped by families from Constantinople and Asia Minor after 1922, cinnamon and allspice stayed close to meat and tomato, not only to sweets. Chicken became the budget-friendly weeknight version of the same red-braised family that also includes beef, rabbit, and rooster.
Quantity
1.4kg
thighs and drumsticks preferred
Quantity
10g
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
2 medium, about 300g
finely chopped
Quantity
3
finely chopped
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
500g
grated, or use 400g good canned crushed tomatoes
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 small
Quantity
1
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
250ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon
only if the tomatoes are sharp
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
500g
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in chicken piecesthighs and drumsticks preferred | 1.4kg |
| fine sea salt | 10g |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oil | 60ml |
| yellow onionsfinely chopped | 2 medium, about 300g |
| garlic clovesfinely chopped | 3 |
| dry red wine | 150ml |
| ripe tomatoesgrated, or use 400g good canned crushed tomatoes | 500g |
| tomato paste (peltes) | 2 tablespoons |
| cinnamon stick | 1 small |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| ground allspice | 1/4 teaspoon |
| hot water or light chicken stock | 250ml |
| sugar (optional)only if the tomatoes are sharp | 1 teaspoon |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)chopped | 2 tablespoons |
| hilopites, rice, or fried potatoesfor serving | 500g |
Pat the chicken very dry and season it all over with the salt and pepper. Let it stand while you chop the onions. Dry skin and dry flesh brown properly; wet chicken spits, steams, and gives you a thin sauce before the pot has even begun.
Warm the olive oil in a wide heavy pot over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken in two batches, 4 to 5 minutes per side, until the edges are deep gold and the pot has browned bits on the bottom. This is the step that decides kokkinisto. The sauce must taste of browned chicken, not boiled chicken wearing tomato.
Lift the chicken to a plate. Lower the heat to medium, add the onions to the same oil, and cook 8 to 10 minutes, scraping the pot, until sweet and pale gold. Add the garlic for the last minute, just until it smells warm, not browned.
Stir in the tomato paste and cook it for 1 minute so it darkens a little. Pour in the wine and scrape up everything stuck to the bottom. Add the grated tomatoes, cinnamon stick, bay leaf, allspice, and hot water or stock. If the tomatoes are hard and sour, add the sugar. If they are ripe, leave it out.
Return the chicken and any juices to the pot, skin side up if the skin is on. Bring the sauce to a lively bubble, then lower the heat, cover partly, and simmer 45 to 55 minutes, turning the pieces once. The chicken is done when it pulls easily at the joint and the sauce has thickened to a red gloss.
Remove the cinnamon stick and bay leaf. Taste the sauce and correct the salt. Let the pot rest off the heat for 10 minutes so the oil rises and the sauce settles. Scatter parsley over the top if you like it. Serve with hilopites, rice, or fried potatoes, because kokkinisto without something to catch the sauce is poor planning.
1 serving (about 450g)
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